Wood stove hearth build

[Doc C]

I am only on layer 4 of the Durock. Still need 1 more layer.


This thing will be fireproof and then some!

 

[Doc C]

Also one thing I learned while building this is that once you get to a certain height of stacked Durock the normal screws and ring shank nails don't bite very well anymore.

I have to switch to some interior wood screws long enough to get down to the plywood and with a head large enough to not just sink real fast into the concrete board.

 

[begreen]

Home Depot sells 3" Grip Rite #8 drywall screws that might work.

 

[Doc C]

Home Depot sells 3" Grip Rite #8 drywall screws that might work.

Do they break less often then the regular black drywall screws?

 

[begreen]

I've never tried them going thru 2"+ of cement board, but I haven't had many drywall screws break on me. Then again, I don't do drywall that much anymore either. I do use long drywall screws in other wood joining tasks and they have stood up well.

 

[Doc C]

I've never tried them going thru 2"+ of cement board, but I haven't had many drywall screws break on me. Then again, I don't do drywall that much anymore either. I do use long drywall screws in other wood joining tasks and they have stood up well.

Fair enough. I'll see if I can find them and give them a try.

 

[bholler]

Do they break less often then the regular black drywall screws?

We use grex screws with the pan heads lowes carries them. Our local hardware store has them to but I don't know about your area.

 

[Doc C]

Took measurements before I built the frame and made a template to transfer to the top of the Durock so I can cut out a spot for the vent for the proximity air.

 

[begreen]

The vent grille doesn't need to be large. A standard 2.5" x 10" floor register would suffice.

 

[Doc C]

The vent grille doesn't need to be large. A standard 2.5" x 10" floor register would suffice.

I had 4"x12" planned but I'll see if I can find the size you suggested. Definately would make it less intrusive.

The area I have marked is the whole area that I could use if needed for a vent.

 

[begreen]

4" x 10" will work, that's a typical bathroom floor vent size. 2 x 10 is a bit less common, but HD stocks some. Might have to paint it black to be less obvious.
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[Doc C]

4" x 10" will work, that's a typical bathroom floor vent size. 2 x 10 is a bit less common, but HD stocks some. Might have to paint it black to be less obvious.
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Ended up finding a 2" x 12" that I think will work. Good compromise

 

[Doc C]

I have some cool wormy maple I was thinking about using on the face. I just cut it real quick and set it up to see how it looks. It's not attached or anything.

It's outside the clearance area by several inches.

I was thinking stain it dark and use slate on top?

Not sure how I feel about it.

And using angle iron with chunky bolts where the slate meets the wood.

Any thoughts?

 

[begreen]

If you are thinking resale value then I would understate the look. The heavy angle iron might not appeal to the average home buyer.

 

[Doc C]

If you are thinking resale value then I would understate the look. The heavy angle iron might not appeal to the average home buyer.

I will take that into consideration.

Our area is huge in the rustic/Farmhouse/industrial look.

You brought up a good point and I will bounce it off our real estate agent as well.

 

[Doc C]

Got the wormy maple cut and and installed. Also cut the hole for the vent and set the vent in place to make sure it fits.

Physically distressed the maple with a few tools and I think I'm going to stain it almost a black color called ebony. Looks kind of Grey on this wood.

Once the wood putty dries I will sand it and stain it.

Going to start cutting the slate and dry fit everything so hopefully I can make just 1 batch of thinset and get the tile all done at once.

 

[ben94122]

So, getting to the important questions--did you find your hammer?

 

[bholler]

So, getting to the important questions--did you find your hammer?

I poured my favorite and rather expensive hammer into the basement stairs at my old house. It really pissed me off when I realized it.

 

[Doc C]

So, getting to the important questions--did you find your hammer?

I never did find my hammer and by the time I realized it I was past the point of wanting to take the hearth back apart. Especially since I am not sure it's in there....I looked before I started putting the plywood and cement board on and did not see anything in there but I have a problem of overlooking things...

 

[Doc C]

Cut all the slate. It is all solid black. Just dirty right now from the wet saw!

Stained the wood. Still need to sand it down more to distress it.

Tomorrow I will thin set the slate down and grout it the next day.

Paint the vent and do the trim and the hearth will be done.

Then just to finish the floor and put the stove back on.

 

[Doc C]

Thin set the tile down and giving everything a good cleaning before I grout.

I think I'm going to seal the tile with a high gloss sealer since it looks so good wet.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

Thin set the tile down and giving everything a good cleaning before I grout.

I think I'm going to seal the tile with a high gloss sealer since it looks so good wet.

Your project is coming along nicely. I'm looking forward to the final pic with the stove in place, etc.

My stove didn't require any insulation below it, just a non-combustible surface, but I chose to insulate anyway to future proof against the possibility of a different stove. I used three layers of 1/2" Durock Next Gen and one layer of 1/2" Micore sandwiched between. I used some Spax brand #12 - 3 1/2" galvanized screws for the final layer. They worked great. I then added 1 3/8" brick over the top, bonding with thinset.

Initially I thought that building up multiple layers of Durock seemed possibly problematic so called Durock. I spoke with technical support from Durock, who told me something like, "While installers develop creative solutions with our products in the field, we do not officially recommend installing Durock in multiple layers." Well, I did it. And it worked great. I did apply thinset between each layer of Durock/Micore. It was very easy and provided a very solid, flat, and level base for the brick and the stove.

 

[Doc C]

Grout is done. Sealed it with a high gloss sealer. Painted the vent and got that in place.

Stove goes on tonight and gets hooked up.

Now I just need to figure out what I am going to use for the trim where the slate meets the wood.

 

[Doc C]

One thing I noticed while installing the vent near the stove is a large influx of air coming in.

I have a 4" fan between the first and second floor of the house. When it's running and you open a door or window you can hear a noticeable change in the fan.

I did put a passive air vent in the same room as the stove earlier this year but it doesn't seem like it did much.

I'm hoping this new vent near the stove will help alleviate this issue.

 

[Dobish]

looking good. I love the slate look. We did it in our nook a few years ago!

Do you have access to the bottom of this area? maybe you could get your hammer from below and then brace the subfloor back in. i thought i lost my favorite hammer for about 2 years... then I looked in a box of stuff I hadn't unpacked and there it was! Right next to my headlamp and my trusty leatherman I had been looking for!