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I couldn't get mine to work worth a darn without a pipe damper on it...I was pretty green back then though too...also burning wet wood.
Y'all know they make a new EPA version of the Wonderwood? My friend has one that he just put in 2 months back...says it works great!
Ok question for you Texas, I have been keeping the air thermostat full high and just using the damper to control everything, which’s works well. Is there anyway to keep more heat inside the firebox? I saw someone put some firebricks up top, reason I’m wondering is because sometimes I want to build smaller fires and it doesn’t throw much heat with small stuff.
Also I haven’t ran it overnight yet, what’s the best way to pack it and set it for overnight heating?
I controlled the stove by the thermostat on the front. Full open to start the fire and then I turned it down to lower. You can safely fill the firebox to the top of the firebricks and then for the night, turn it down to low. I also learned if I opened the thermostat to high for a few seconds before I opened the loading door, almost no smoke will spill out. Firebricks on top of the stove to add mass, I did that too, I left a center aisle on top to find the happy medium between a stove with more mass and its heating ability.
I forgot to post the link for the new EPA Wonderwood (broken link removed)
On my old one, the intake door flapper would bounce all the time...made a lot of noise clang clang clang, especially when it was almost closed...really bad then. Anybody else's do this? (I figured its nature of the beast)
Our Resolute's thermostatic air control flapper would do the same thing. I tamed it by placing a small magnet on the damper. That made it close positively and not flap when almost closed.
All right so yesterday I went onto the roof to check how the condition of the chimney is, and to my surprise it’s fairly clean. Not large deposits or anything. Gave her a quick brush called her good. I have been getting roughly 6 hour burns (fire to nice coal bed). And then New Years happens, and the power goes out because we had HORRIBLE winds in Ohio, a tree fell on the lines up the road. So it’s the first and I have no power BUT I have heat.
I forgot to post the link for the new EPA Wonderwood (broken link removed)
On my old one, the intake door flapper would bounce all the time...made a lot of noise clang clang clang, especially when it was almost closed...really bad then. Anybody else's do this? (I figured its nature of the beast)
Hi everyone, my name is Alex and I purchased a home two years ago, and it came with a wonderwood stove. The chimney is roughly 15 feet, straight up from the stove, with a 90 degree bend at the stove back. It is a 6 in single wall pipe in 3 sections. The previous owner said they used the stove to heat because the electric here costs too dang much. Well I didn’t trust the stove because I never had one as a kid, no one had one in the extended family either. I have always wanted one tho. Last weekend I tested it out to see if it was in decent shape, I unhooked it brought it outside to see if it leaked anywhere. She ran great, heated up my bbq put quite nicely. I wanted to replace the stove piping anyway because it is old and seems brittle.
Here starts my questions. I will be using this wonderwood for this season(we can’t afford 500 a month to heat this season again). Is there anything I NEED to know before I use it?
What is the Max temp I should bring it to?
Do I need a damper in the flue above the stove and if so what height do I need it at?
How do I figure out what chimney I have? (If that makes sense)
Once I figure out this chimney set up and it works proplerly I am eyeballing either a Englander 13nc or a 30, will this current set up work with those stoves?
Any info will be appreciated I have a 2 year old and the safety issue is all I’m thinking about.
Buy the fan that sits on top of the stove. It moves the air around but not strong enough to feel it. Powered by the heat from the stove. Just place it at the back of the stove and forget about it. About $80-100.