I wonder if the ones we had were covered by a lifetime warranty. We had a bunch of windows that fogged up and others that were in terrible repair. We took the serial number off and about 3 weeks later we had new windows. Perhaps they were within the 25 year warranty.
Window heat loss
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I wonder if the ones we had were covered by a lifetime warranty. We had a bunch of windows that fogged up and others that were in terrible repair. We took the serial number off and about 3 weeks later we had new windows. Perhaps they were within the 25 year warranty.
jdp1152
Minister of Fire
I have the same age Anderson windows and an energy assessment from Mass Save indicated that replacing this would produce very little cost savings. Add insulation, seal up leaks, wrap your house.
Well, last weekend I made three of these, I followed the youtube instructions for the most part, except I used 1x2 select pine and stained them.
They seem to work quite well ,they fit snugly in the window frame, and you can hardly notice them.
![[Hearth.com] Window heat loss](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/85/85710-5a129676d9b9077d09753d52ec5d6d23.jpg?hash=4P-NlttbyO "[Hearth.com] Window heat loss")
We have 30' x 10~16' high south facing window wall with a vaulted ceiling on a super insulated/sealed house that I built 30 years ago. Original windows were double pane sealed units. The windows provide fantastic heat in the winter when it's sunny but very little heat in the summer due to a properly designed overhang and a wonderfully large deciduous tree right in front. I tried insulation on the larger, lower windows but ran into huge problems. When I had insulated panels in the winter, the sun would hit the very cold windows in the morning and the rapid rise in temps broke the seals on all of the windows. You could hear the bang of the glass expanding on cold, sunny mornings. It was more like the crack of a gun actually. Windows didn't break but once the seal is gone, they're pretty well useless because half the time, they are fogged up. Lesson learned.
All of the windows were replaced under warranty but we still had problems.
10 years ago I finally replaced the entire window wall with newer designed low-e, argon filled. The big difference is that the aluminum spacer on the old units was now replaced with a plastic and butyl spacer. It could handle the stress of the expansion and contraction. I gave up on the interior insulation at night and just use the wood stove to heat the area. Since I have far more standing dead hardwood than I can ever burn, it was a no-brainer.
The view is worth more to us than saving the energy. Just my thought.
All of the windows were replaced under warranty but we still had problems.
10 years ago I finally replaced the entire window wall with newer designed low-e, argon filled. The big difference is that the aluminum spacer on the old units was now replaced with a plastic and butyl spacer. It could handle the stress of the expansion and contraction. I gave up on the interior insulation at night and just use the wood stove to heat the area. Since I have far more standing dead hardwood than I can ever burn, it was a no-brainer.
The view is worth more to us than saving the energy. Just my thought.
I haven't read in detail but can say I have a two story built in about 1985 (27 years old) and it has Andersen windows. They are at least medium grade and have solid wood interiors and vinyl clad (over wood) exteriors. The glass appears to be two pain one piece, the two pains are very close together, no more than an 1/8" air space and no spacers obvious. We have nice views and a bunch of tall/wide double hung units. I had considered it may be time to replace these windows with a modern version, one that tilts in so the outside an be cleaned from inside. This thread has made me question the economic justification of an upgrade. On the other hand, I am sure the windows are out of warranty and may be impossible to replace anyway. I have replaced the lower unit on one window because of a failure of the seal and loss of transparent through the glass. I wonder how long the other windows can hold up on that count.
In the past Andersen was one of the "best", but I understand Pella and a few other brands may be of better quality/design today.. at a price, of course.
In the past Andersen was one of the "best", but I understand Pella and a few other brands may be of better quality/design today.. at a price, of course.
Marvin might be the best. I went with Anderson 4 yrs ago though. Anderson has glass thin enough that when the wind blows you can see the glass bow. Marvin is a heavier window and cost 20% more? My Kolbe windows didn't bow no matter how hard the wind blew.
4 years ago I used Crestline replacement sash units for all my double hung, I do not remember what the cost was any more. They are the double pain low-E argon units. That provided a significant savings on the NG usage ( ranch home 1960 build). In A different home back in the 80's we made the insulated shades for the windows, Condensation became a problem on the orginal single pain 1950 style windows, I also replaced those sash units somewhere around the late 80's again it made a difference in the NG usage ( heck with 3 kids 2 dogs + wife and me might just as well put in revolving doors or for that matter just left them open) The jist here is be careful with the sealed up insulated curtains on the inside as condensation can quickly cause more serious problems to the sash and frames. Note: everything here was wood no alum or vinyl.
Another note: Alum expands contracts 2-3 times as much as wood Vinyl less but UV does a number on these. Fiberglass frames and sash assemblies are the most stable of non wood products but are pricy and pretty much UV damage free. Even the most current vinyl windows still suffer the uv problem and based on the experience of a friend with a new build of just a few years ago shrink. They have warranties but is a fight that is on going as we speak as the blame is being shuttled back and forth between the window company and contractor .
Another note: Alum expands contracts 2-3 times as much as wood Vinyl less but UV does a number on these. Fiberglass frames and sash assemblies are the most stable of non wood products but are pricy and pretty much UV damage free. Even the most current vinyl windows still suffer the uv problem and based on the experience of a friend with a new build of just a few years ago shrink. They have warranties but is a fight that is on going as we speak as the blame is being shuttled back and forth between the window company and contractor .
At some point, I'd like to do FG on the south and west sides of the house, and whatever on the other 2.
Aluminum stove room windows need a stick of dynamite put to 'em.
Aluminum stove room windows need a stick of dynamite put to 'em.
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