Will Woodstock Fireview Be Big Enough For My Build?

[HarvestMan]

The wood burning heathen emerges from the jungle and is mobbed by the wood stove missionaries eager to win his soul. Whom shall emerge victorious?

 

[Mganga]

The wood burning heathen emerges from the jungle and is mobbed by the wood stove missionaries eager to win his soul. Whom shall emerge victorious?

Everyone has greatly assisted me in narrowing it down. Thank you kindly for your help. The Fireview is out. Heavily leaning towards the PH.

Now I need to figure out how to vent it. Top or rear? On either side of the hearth will be a 2 foot deep wall with built in shelving/display. This is the space that the chase will go up the wall as well. Above/behind the stove will be a stone wall/chimeny.

Option A: Set the PH (with rear heat shield) back in this space with a black double wall pipe heading up a few feet until it enters up into the chase connecting to Class A DuraVent (local installer suggested this product).
Advantages: 1) There would be one straight flue. 2) More space left in room.
Disadvantages: 1) The stove would sit back in a faux fireplace partially covered from above, possibly reducing heat dispersement. 2) There would be less access to back of stove (OAK, etc). 3) The stove may not seem as visible. 4) I would need 24 inches of clearance on sides, reducing display space. 5) It might feel tighter loading the stove.

Option B: Set PH in front of 2 foot deep in-wall display with rear venting with a 90 degree T heading up into Class A pipe through chase.
Advantages: 1) stove sits prominently out front. 2) better radiation of heat. 3) Better access to rear of stove. 4) Easier wood loading. 5) Could bring built-in shelving closer to stove on sides because it is behind the stove.
Disadvantages: 1) 90 degree turn for flue pipe. 2) More room space lost.

Recommendations?

 

[Mganga]

I just watched a video of the PH and I am not sure an OAK is compatible with the rear heat shield. Does anyone know if this is the case? If so, then it makes my installation decision fairly easy.

 

[TheRambler]

Option B: Set PH in front of 2 foot deep in-wall display with rear venting with a 90 degree T heading up into Class A pipe through chase.
Advantages: 1) stove sits prominently out front. 2) better radiation of heat. 3) Better access to rear of stove. 4) Easier wood loading. 5) Could bring built-in shelving closer to stove on sides because it is behind the stove.
Disadvantages: 1) 90 degree turn for flue pipe. 2) More room space lost.

Recommendations?

I would go with option B 100% for sure. The PH is a highly radiant stove, you do not want to hinder that unless you really need to, and if you do you need to make certain that the walls are constructed properly to protect from the intense heat they will be exposed to. 24in may be the clearance, but things still get quite warm at that distance.

I just watched a video of the PH and I am not sure an OAK is compatible with the rear heat shield. Does anyone know if this is the case? If so, then it makes my installation decision fairly easy.

An oak is compatible with the rear heat shield. There is a knockout where it can attach. When I get home later today I can get you a picture if you wish.

 

[Ashful]

You can't reduce "heat dispersement", Mganga. All you can change is how fast it's released, and where it goes. In your scenario above, any energy absorbed into an interior mass (eg. alcove wall) will radiate 100% back to interior. Any energy radiated into an exterior wall will radiate or convect back out, according to the properties of said wall.

 

[Woody Stover]

I would set it out in the room; You want to see all of that gorgeous stove, and feel that soft radiant heat from as many angles as possible! I liked the rear heat shield I had on the Fireview. Seemed to produce a bit of convection off the back, saving heat that would have been radiated into the masonry of the external-wall fireplace. Regarding the OAK, you want that on the positive-pressure side of the house, so you are good there.

 

[Mganga]

I would go with option B 100% for sure. The PH is a highly radiant stove, you do not want to hinder that unless you really need to, and if you do you need to make certain that the walls are constructed properly to protect from the intense heat they will be exposed to. 24in may be the clearance, but things still get quite warm at that distance.

An oak is compatible with the rear heat shield. There is a knockout where it can attach. When I get home later today I can get you a picture if you wish.

A picture would be great. Thanks. Do you think a rear heat shield would be of benefit even if the stove is set out away from back wall enough to install without one?

 

[Mganga]

You can't reduce "heat dispersement", Mganga. All you can change is how fast it's released, and where it goes. In your scenario above, any energy absorbed into an interior mass (eg. alcove wall) will radiate 100% back to interior. Any energy radiated into an exterior wall will radiate or convect back out, according to the properties of said wall.

That makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. I should have paid better attention in physics. Ha

 

[Mganga]

I would set it out in the room; You want to see all of that gorgeous stove, and feel that soft radiant heat from as many angles as possible! I liked the rear heat shield I had on the Fireview. Seemed to produce a bit of convection off the back, saving heat that would have been radiated into the masonry of the external-wall fireplace. Regarding the OAK, you want that on the positive-pressure side of the house, so you are good there.

I am going with option B. Any recommendations on material for tubing for OAK? I spoke with a certified chimney sweep regarding the install and he said he would use dryer vent tubing. If (and maybe this is a big if) embers ran backwards (due to vacuum effect) I am not sure flexible dryer tubing is up to the task of preventing my house from burning to the ground.

 

[Woody Stover]

Do you think a rear heat shield would be of benefit even if the stove is set out away from back wall enough to install without one?

I don't think it will make a big difference, it's mainly to reduce clearances. But in my case it kept radiant heat from migrating to the great outdoors.

 

[Woody Stover]

If (and maybe this is a big if) embers ran backwards (due to vacuum effect) I am not sure flexible dryer tubing is up to the task of preventing my house from burning to the ground.

I'm not an expert but I'd think that's a huge "if" and there's virtually no chance of it ever happening unless a tornado is hovering over the OAK inlet. In that case, a fire would not be your biggest worry.

 

[Ashful]

Do you think a rear heat shield would be of benefit even if the stove is set out away from back wall enough to install without one?

It would help a lot with the amount of radiant heat energy incident upon rear wall, so if that is an exterior wall, there is a benefit to the heat shield. If it is an interior wall, then the benefit is much less.

 

[Mganga]

Once again. All very helpful responses. Thank you.

 

[TheRambler]

When i get home i will take that picture for you, unless someobe else can do so sooner. Will be later this evening when i get home

 

[Rearscreen]

I wouldn't use anything but metalflex for outside air. Dryer vent is sometimes vinyl or this Mylar looking stuff. My 4 inch intake terminates higher than the Progress, which I decided to do since there is plenty of snow where I live. So far there have been no draft issues and the stove operates flawlessly.

 

[Mganga]

I wouldn't use anything but metalflex for outside air. Dryer vent is sometimes vinyl or this Mylar looking stuff. My 4 inch intake terminates higher than the Progress, which I decided to do since there is plenty of snow where I live. So far there have been no draft issues and the stove operates flawlessly.

I will look into metaflex. Help me understand the reason behind keeping the air intake termination higher than the stove.
Thanks,
Christopher

 

[begreen]

Normally you want to keep the air intake for the outside air a bit below the stove to prevent cold air siphoning into the house, but sometimes one needs to improvise like when the stove is in a basement below ground level.

 

[Rearscreen]

I will look into metaflex. Help me understand the reason behind keeping the air intake termination higher than the stove.
Thanks,
Christopher

Actually ideally it should be below the level of the stove as the intake could act as a chimney. I had 2 choices of height as I had to go out the lower or higher existing heatolator vent then hammer through stone to get to the outside. The lower one would put me in the snow range so I went 4 feet above the stove. If there was any problem I could add pipe on the outside extending down, however I have had no problems with it above.

 

[Mganga]

Actually ideally it should be below the level of the stove as the intake could act as a chimney. I had 2 choices of height as I had to go out the lower or higher existing heatolator vent then hammer through stone to get to the outside. The lower one would put me in the snow range so I went 4 feet above the stove. If there was any problem I could add pipe on the outside extending down, however I have had no problems with it above.

Makes sense. Glad it worked out for you.