brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
New paint on old paint is gonna stick out anyways, unless the whole thing gets painted...but it'll all blend together by January...You absolutely see the difference. It stands out like a sore thumb
New paint on old paint is gonna stick out anyways, unless the whole thing gets painted...but it'll all blend together by January...You absolutely see the difference. It stands out like a sore thumb
Brushed metallic will never blend you will always see it. I have tried.New paint on old paint is gonna stick out anyways, unless the whole thing gets painted...but it'll all blend together by January...
If you have linseed oil, that is a hard drying oil that will protect any bare metal until lightly sanded or cleaned down to bare metal before paint.
I thought this was just about stopping the rust for now...then the whole thing is to be sprayed at some later date?Brushed metallic will never blend you will always see it. I have tried.
Have you found any that hold up well? I never really looked into it but I am a little curious.Ya know, with the concerns about looking new and old slobberchops nearby, you might consider a repaint with a glossy paint. Not my favorite look, but it does not show these issues as readily and can be wiped down clean.
Yes, boiled linseed dries faster than raw. It has been used on metal farm equipment for years. I keep handles coated with it as well as the steel shovel, rake, whatever. Darkens the metal and dries with a hard golden brown finish. Raw soaks into wood longer, takes days to dry compared to hours. It actually strengthens the wood fibers. I use the raw version on wooden wheel spokes. Before paint it can be removed with lacquer thinner. Mineral spirits generally doesn’t harm cured paint or oils, lacquer thinner does.I actually do have linseed oil that I use for oil/pumice finishes in woodworking. So you're saying I can rub a light coating on now to stop the rust then I can simply sand it off when I'm ready to paint? That won't mess up the finish later on?
It makes sense, it's blocking the oxygen from contacting the steel. Just verifying before I do it. Id feel better stopping it until I'm ready ready paint this fall. Thanks!
Crisco is definitely out, Gordon would be all over that. Pretty funny how small a 200 lb dog makes a 1.85 cu ft stove look. That little guy heats my whole 1700 sq ft 2 story cape! Gordon also supplies plenty of methane.
I might have to get some and try itI haven't tried it but I do know that enameled stoves are much easier to keep clean. So are porcelain surfaces, so that is the hypothesis behind the suggestion. Wipe-ability being the advantage. Works for engines. Krylon has a high-haet max gloss black that looks interesting.
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Ya know, with the concerns about looking new and old slobberchops nearby, you might consider a repaint with a glossy paint. Not my favorite look, but it does not show these issues as readily and can be wiped down clean.
I might have to get some and try it
Yes I am aware it needs to be 1200+ paintKeep in mind an engine only gets to like 2-300 degrees. I don't think a high gloss paint would hold up, enamel is a different beast than a paint.
I've had good luck using Rustoleum High Temp gloss black (1200*) on stoves...actually have done some tu-tone stuff that turned out nice...did the body in flat black (BBQ black) and the door in (semi?) gloss...pretty sharp, has held up fine.Keep in mind an engine only gets to like 2-300 degrees. I don't think a high gloss paint would hold up, enamel is a different beast than a paint.
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