Why such a short burn?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Unless you have 1" of clearance between the outside of the masonry structure and any combustible material (which having that clearance is very unlikely) you are absolutly required to have an insulated liner.

You would think the place that installed the liner would know this. They told me there wasn't enough room to insulate it so they insulated it at the top.
 
You would think the place that installed the liner would know this. They told me there wasn't enough room to insulate it so they insulated it at the top.
I dont know if they knew it or not but if they are acting as professionals installing liners they should. I am sure they will tell you it is not needed when you call them.
 
It will tell you this in your Manuel about the liner I would think
 
Do you have a block off plate? Not really going to help with burn times but will help keep heat in the house. If you're burning soft maple it could burn that quick, the gasket sounds like the culprit.
 
Do you have a block off plate? Not really going to help with burn times but will help keep heat in the house. If you're burning soft maple it could burn that quick, the gasket sounds like the culprit.

They out a plate and a chimney cap. Where does the block off plate go?
 
Was the picture you posted on the first page taken after the 2 1/2 hours today? The coals look roughly split shaped bet there's not much there. I did a cold start today at 3PM with 3 pieces of white pine and one piece of oak. After about an hour I put 3 more splits of oak in and now at 6:30 My stove is still half full of coals. How big are your individual pieces of wood? It seems like they may just be really small?
 
They out a plate and a chimney cap. Where does the block off plate go?
Right above the insert in the fireplace where the damper was/is.
 
Does your chimney have a clay liner. If the clay liner is good I don't think you need a insulated metal pipe inside the clay liner. If so, man that is a strict code. I could see that if the masonry part is not to code to begin with. If it is to code then a single wall ss pipe inside the good clay liner should suffice in general. What size wood are you putting in there? Kevin
 
Was the picture you posted on the first page taken after the 2 1/2 hours today? The coals look roughly split shaped bet there's not much there. I did a cold start today at 3PM with 3 pieces of white pine and one piece of oak. After about an hour I put 3 more splits of oak in and now at 6:30 My stove is still half full of coals. How big are your individual pieces of wood? It seems like they may just be really small?

Yes, after the 2 1/2 hour burn

I have different sizes. Some small, medium and large ranging from 15" -17", long
 
I didn't put any in at 6:30. I started at 3 and put 3 splits in at 4. Now at 7, I still have a pile of coals. The stove is cooling off but my house is 70 degrees so I'm net running the stove full bore. As far as air, my stove is always run with the air between 3/4 and 7/8 closed every time I load it. If it's open more than 3/4 my flue temps are way too hot.

The picture in your avatar looks like the wood is criss-crossed. Do you always load like that? That is a sure way to burn the wood too fast. You should stack it in tightly together to minimize the surface area exposed to air and flames.
 
While the OP may (or may not) need a fully insulated liner it's unlikely that it has much to do with the short burn times. Block off plates fall into the same category. Definitely improves performance but not a cause of short burns.

If you're burning thin sticks try something larger if you have any. A dollar bill should be tight but able to be removed from around the door gasket with a little effort. If it pulls right out without effort (check multiple spots) either replace the gasket or as a temporary solution fluff the gasket. Many doors are adjustable as well, it may be as simple as that.

You should call and ask the installer a few questions. Was the chimney swept before install, is the chimney lined with clay tile etc.
 
I didn't put any in at 6:30. I started at 3 and put 3 splits in at 4. Now at 7, I still have a pile of coals. The stove is cooling off but my house is 70 degrees so I'm net running the stove full bore. As far as air, my stove is always run with the air between 3/4 and 7/8 closed every time I load it. If it's open more than 3/4 my flue temps are way too hot.

The picture in your avatar looks like the wood is criss-crossed. Do you always load like that? That is a sure way to burn the wood too fast. You should stack it in tightly together to minimize the surface area exposed to air and flames.

I thought that's how you stack it. I put some vertically on the bottom and some horizontally on top. Not correct?

When will you reload again?
 
Fill the stove. It needs fuel to run. 5 pieces of wood won't fill most stoves unless they're huge pieces. My insert is small and I fit more than 5.
[Hearth.com] Why such a short burn?
 
While the OP may (or may not) need a fully insulated liner it's unlikely that it has much to do with the short burn times. Block off plates fall into the same category. Definitely improves performance but not a cause of short burns.

If you're burning thin sticks try something larger if you have any. A dollar bill should be tight but able to be removed from around the door gasket with a little effort. If it pulls right out without effort (check multiple spots) either replace the gasket or as a temporary solution fluff the gasket. Many doors are adjustable as well, it may be as simple as that.

You should call and ask the installer a few questions. Was the chimney swept before install, is the chimney lined with clay tile etc.

The chimney was swept in Sept.. I don't know if it's lined with clay. Will have to ask. The stove was here when I moved in. When the chimney was cleaned they found the stove was not installed properly. Some connections were not right and they fixed it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jatoxico
I thought that's how you stack it. I put some vertically on the bottom and some horizontally on top. Not correct?

When will you reload again?

That is definitely your problem. You need to load like the picture above. That will get you hotter stove temps and way longer burns. I will load mine like that shortly. About 15 minutes after I load it the air will be closed to 3/4. About a half hour later it will be closed to 7/8. Then it will burn overnight and there will be plenty of coals at 5 AM when I get up.
 
Does your chimney have a clay liner. If the clay liner is good I don't think you need a insulated metal pipe inside the clay liner. If so, man that is a strict code. I could see that if the masonry part is not to code to begin with. If it is to code then a single wall ss pipe inside the good clay liner should suffice in general. What size wood are you putting in there? Kevin
If you dont have that clearance it is not to code clay or not. The existence and or condition of a clay liner has no bearing on insulation at all.
 
One thing folks, if the stove is over-drafting or leaking air, packing it full and letting it rip may not be the best idea. The OP is a new user to the stove. Reported 650 temps are good. Some of these quads are reportedly pretty easy breathers. I would make sure there is a modicum of control over the stove first and that the OP gains a little experience so as to avoid over firing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Woody Stover