Which Stihl ?

[KindredSpiritzz]

I think im going to get the 271 with an 18 inch bar ($420) . I seen one today and fell in love with it. I'd like to get the 20 inch bar but im concerned it would bog down a little bit slinging that much chain. 50 cc if i remember correctly, should be everything i need for what i do. Thanks for all the advice, very helpful and i learned a lot. I feel more comfortable now shelling out that kind of money.

 

[DodgyNomad]

I think im going to get the 271 with an 18 inch bar ($420) . I seen one today and fell in love with it. I'd like to get the 20 inch bar but im concerned it would bog down a little bit slinging that much chain. 50 cc if i remember correctly, should be everything i need for what i do. Thanks for all the advice, very helpful and i learned a lot. I feel more comfortable now shelling out that kind of money.

Excellent choice, excellent saw. You should love it. As the years go on, you'll be glad you've got the extra power, especially if you come across bigger wood. Get the yellow non-safety chain if you are given the choice, and burn ethanol free fuel if you can. Stihl doubles the warranty if you use their HP ultra oil when you get it.

 

[Ashful]

Depends on what you're cutting. If you're doing a lot of hardwoods big enough to bury the nose of the bar, it might be wise to step down to the 16" bar. If you're cutting mostly stuff under 18", such that the nose won't be buried, then you'll probably be happy with 18".

I run 20" on my 62cc 036 Pro, and it struggles a bit when I bury the nose of that bar in oak. It does great everywhere else, though. I usually switch to a bigger saw when cutting a lot of anything 20" or over, so not a big deal, but if it's your only saw...

 

[Dairyman]

Depends on what you're cutting. If you're doing a lot of hardwoods big enough to bury the nose of the bar, it might be wise to step down to the 16" bar. If you're cutting mostly stuff under 18", such that the nose won't be buried, then you'll probably be happy with 18".

I run 20" on my 62cc 036 Pro, and it struggles a bit when I bury the nose of that bar in oak. It does great everywhere else, though. I usually switch to a bigger saw when cutting a lot of anything 20" or over, so not a big deal, but if it's your only saw...

There's also a big difference in pulling a 3/8 over a .325. A 271 should pull a 18" .325 fairly well.

 

[jlightning]

Go w/ the biggest cc saw you can. If you still have the Poulan save it for the smaller cuts like branches and the smaller diameter cuts and use the bigger saw for the big cuts. It's nice to have a small light weight saw and a larger saw...best of both worlds. Besides if you get one stuck you have the other to get you out of a jam.

 

[Ashful]

There's also a big difference in pulling a 3/8 over a .325. A 271 should pull a 18" .325 fairly well.

Full and narrow kerf chain are offered in both 3/8" and 0.325" pitch. Is it implied that 0.325" is usually narrow kerf?

The only 0.325 chain I've ever run is PICO chain, and likewise, all my 3/8" chain happens to be full kerf. However, I thought kerf was usually more a factor of gauge than pitch.

 

[Dairyman]

Full and narrow kerf chain are offered in both 3/8" and 0.325" pitch. Is it implied that 0.325" is usually narrow kerf?

The only 0.325 chain I've ever run is PICO chain, and likewise, all my 3/8" chain happens to be full kerf. However, I thought kerf was usually more a factor of gauge than pitch.

I've never ran any narrow kerf. In .325 it's normally .043gauge I believe? Anyway .325's load will be less due to cutter height and chip clearing than 3/8.

 

[HighTon]

I think im going to get the 271 with an 18 inch bar ($420) . I seen one today and fell in love with it. I'd like to get the 20 inch bar but im concerned it would bog down a little bit slinging that much chain. 50 cc if i remember correctly, should be everything i need for what i do

I bought a 271 last fall with an 18" bar (first chainsaw I've ever ran) and it has worked great for me. I've cut about 2 cords of dead Juniper and noodled a cord of Elm. It does bog down if I get the nose buried. I'm glad I didn't go longer than 18".

 

[Ashful]

I've never ran any narrow kerf. In .325 it's normally .043gauge I believe? Anyway .325's load will be less due to cutter height and chip clearing than 3/8.

Nah... lots of .063 gauge x .325 pitch stock saws out there, so I don't think that's the case. Cutter height might be a small factor, but really it's cutter vs. depth gauge differential height, that determines the bite size of each cutter. If you're noticing less effort required to spin a .325 chain, vs. 3/8", there must be some other factor we're missing.

 

[Dairyman]

Nah... lots of .063 gauge x .325 pitch stock saws out there, so I don't think that's the case. Cutter height might be a small factor, but really it's cutter vs. depth gauge differential height, that determines the bite size of each cutter. If you're noticing less effort required to spin a .325 chain, vs. 3/8", there must be some other factor we're missing.

I'm not explaining it very well I'm afraid.
"Cutter geometry...
Distance between cutters...
Width of kerf...
Power of saw..." a quote from another site.

Those are the factors at play.

Here's a video from MasterMech

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

Fastest times..
.325 7 pin = 10.3
8 pin = 10.7
3/8 7 pin = 9.6
PS3 7 pin = 8.4
PS3 8 pin = 7.3

 

[Ashful]

I'm not explaining it very well I'm afraid.
Fastest times..
.325 7 pin = 10.3
3/8 7 pin = 9.6

Exactly as I was saying... the .325 was NOT faster than the 3/8", on the same saw. The 3/8" was actually a hair faster, but at less than 7% difference between them, likely within the testing error.

 

[Dairyman]

Exactly as I was saying... the .325 was NOT faster than the 3/8", on the same saw. The 3/8" was actually a hair faster, but at less than 7% difference between them, likely within the testing error.

Correct in one cut it was but why. That saw has just enough power to pull the normal 3/8 16". You could hear it drop out on the slower cuts. Put a 20" bars on and bury them and the .325 will keep on while the 3/8 struggles.

Hence the 271 should pull a .325 18" fairly well. It is the farm boss after all.

 

[KindredSpiritzz]

Well i was all set to buy the 271 and was telling my buddy about it and he says why don't you just take my 361 cause it'll just sit in his shed and he'll never use it. (He doesnt cut wood at all and happen to find this saw on the side of the road one day. He posted a craigslist add trying to find the owner but no luck so he ended up keeping it.) He wouldnt even take any money for it, just let him use it if he ever needs it. After some hesitation, cause i don't like "owing" people anything i brought it home with me. Back covers cracked a little bit from falling off the truck i assume but otherwise its in excellent shape. 20 inch bar on it. Takes about a dozen pulls to start. Heavy saw, really powers thru the wood good. Can't quite get used to the wideness of the chain, guess im just use to the narrow little Wild Thing chain . Kind of feels like it floats as its cutting. I feel bad for whoever lost it cause i know they must be bumming but happy i got a decent saw for nothing. Any idea what its worth? Im thinking about $450 ??

 

[claydogg84]

That was nice of your friend, but I'm like you - I wouldn't like knowing that I didn't really own it. Either way, that's a nice 60cc saw. A decent used price would be around $300-$350.

 

[Osagebndr]

I love my 361 it's a beast and will run a 24/25" bar like its nothing

 

[Ashful]

I love my 361 it's a beast and will run a 24/25" bar like its nothing

It will run a 24" bar, if you're very patient, but not "like it's nothing". Even a 20" bar with the nose buried in hardwood will slow a 361 more than many can tolerate. There's a reason they make big saws, the MS-361 not being among them.

 

[Diabel]

My 360 will definitely slow down when cutting big hardwood and using 25" bar. I am ok with that and don't like to push things when cutting.
If I was cutting for living.....approach would be different, 660 would be a go to saw in big woods.

 

[aansorge]

Does it have a yellow chain on it yet?

 

[TreePointer]

It will run a 24" bar, if you're very patient, but not "like it's nothing". Even a 20" bar with the nose buried in hardwood will slow a 361 more than many can tolerate. There's a reason they make big saws, the MS-361 not being among them.

+1

My 361 wears a 20" bar all the time. I sometimes have to feather it when buried in DENSE hardwoods.

 

[Ashful]

LOL... "DENSE hardwoods" is all I've been cutting, since Sandy rolled thru. So much white oak, ash, and hickory on the ground, that I'm pretty much ignoring anything else.

Won't last forever... but there's another year or three's worth on the ground, yet.

 

[Osagebndr]

I haven't had a saw bigger than a 361 so my impression may be a bit different than some , but I have fell 20-40" trees with it and haven't found a huge challenge for it yet. Though when I do finally get something with more cc I will probably think different and I keep my chains nice and sharp

 

[DodgyNomad]

I haven't had a saw bigger than a 361 so my impression may be a bit different than some , but I have fell 20-40" trees with it and haven't found a huge challenge for it yet. Though when I do finally get something with more cc I will probably think different and I keep my chains nice and sharp

Great saw. A 40" tree would be plenty of work for it, and you wouldn't want to cut stuff that big all day long. But a truly great saw.

 

[Osagebndr]

40" was a good workout for the saw and me . I have been putting some thought into trading it for a 461 . Just can't bring myself to do it yet.

 

[Ashful]

I wouldn't. Keep the 361, and add a 660. Ideal combo, IMO. I carry an 036 Pro (old 361) and 064 (same chassis as 066 / old 660). I hate not having multiple saws. You never know when you might break one on the Saturday you've set aside for felling wood.

 

[DodgyNomad]

I wouldn't. Keep the 361, and add a 660. Ideal combo, IMO. I carry an 036 Pro (old 361) and 064 (same chassis as 066 / old 660). I hate not having multiple saws. You never know when you might break one on the Saturday you've set aside for felling wood.

This is what I would recommend. If you look in my signature, I have those saws. Don't sell the 361 unless you have to. And don't buy the 660 unless you're going to be getting into big wood on a regular basis. Just my thoughts.