Which of these 2 splitters?

[Todd67]

Rudysmallfry, what log splitter did you end up buying?

I've had my County line 22 ton splitter for 6 years and it has been flawless. They dropped the 22 ton for the 25 ton since then. I have split over 20 cord of wood with it (not face cord, but full cord). All I heat my 2-story house with is a Fisher Mama Bear wood stove, and we have some brutal Winters in northern NY.

 

[rowerwet]

I have the DHT 22 ton, it came with one table, I added the closer table.

I mounted it like this on purpose to protect the filter casting from dropped rounds.

The only issue I run into now is if the log is irregular shaped, it can catch the lip on the new table.

I got a good look at the champion splitter at the depot yesterday, it doesn't look to be built as heavy as the DHT, and that upside down filter looks like it's begging to get nailed by a dropped round

 

[VirginiaIron]

If I was using any one of those tubular designs, including the Champion, I would put sheet metal over the top because the splits get caught in the openings and its only a matter of time before the rack gets racked.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I'm weary of them breaking down since the last two I have attempted to borrow from friends have failed to start or quickly sputter out on the first try. It got me wondering how high or low maintenance they were overall. In the time I've spent waiting for either friend to fix their splitter, I could have split all the wood I have a few times over. If I knew I would do it all in one day, I would just rent one, but I don't work that quickly and rentals aren't cheap. Considering the resale value on splitters, I'd think buying is the better way to go.

I would recommend purchasing a splitter. One guy constantly challanged me about owning a splitter over renting one. I said I enjoy the choice of splitting wood when I WANT to split the wood. Sometimes ill start splitting, someone comes over and I stop to enjoy the company. Sometimes I start splitting and decide that I really want to do something else, sok I stop splitting. He constantly complained about how taxing it was to pick up the splitter, split the wood, and return the splitter in the time frame alotted. He finally purchased one.

I would say the biggest challenge to keeping the operation reliable is to keep the carburetor empty when not in use. I shut my fuel off and run the engine until it stops. Some say do not use ethanol fuel and you won't have any problems, ok. That's ok If you chemically test your fuel to verify the supply integrity and the alcohol content.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Gotta drain the bowl, too. I actually shop OPE by whether it has a drain cock on the bowl, or not. Critical on things like backup generators.

My carburetor s have the plug but a drain valve might be best. To date, I have not had any problems with my practice. That equipment without EPA tanks need to run dry before storage.

 

[firefighterjake]

9 years in with my splitter . . . using ethanol fuel . . . not draining it . . . although I do use a long term fuel stabilizer when I know it's not going to be used for awhile. So far, so good . . . no issues whatsoever.

 

[Todd67]

Same here, 87 octane ethanol fuel with fuel stabilizer. It starts on the first pull 98% of the time (Kohler engine). Never drain my tank or fuel lines.

 

[rowerwet]

I scrounge around the area, often I get the 4 foot plus stuff others have passed on.
I bring the splitter to the site, noodle it into quarters and haul out splits, last trip of the day I tow the splitter home

 

[Ashful]

You guys just reminded me, I have the same pump gas sitting in my splitter from last spring. Probably never even ran it dry, I hadn’t intended to let it sit for months, but Mother Nature had other plans in mind.

Better get out there and check on it, before the three solid days of splitting i have planned for Thanksgiving weekend.

 

[Todd67]

Since winter is upon some of us now, what weight hydraulic oil do you use in your splitter when the mercury dips below 32 degrees?

 

[rowerwet]

One other thing that could be an issue on the Champion splitter, it runs a Delhi pump, the same kind I had on my predator splitter.
The threads for the hoses are metric, and it is hard to find much about them.
My predator splitter ended up only running in the low speed high pressure mode all the time, and i couldn't figure out how to fix or replace it.

 

[Bushfire]

I'm finally in the market for a log splitter as I have around 4 cord to split on hand and even though I love to split with my fiskars, I need to get through this stuff quickly and renting just doesn't seem to be cost effective if I plan on continuing to heat with wood for the foreseeable future. I always held back on purchasing because of maintenance (and upfront costs of purchasing), but now that seems more manageable than the 4 cords of scrounged wood sitting on my driveway and the hassle of having to pick-up and return a splitter for around $100 a day. Gosh, I only need to use it for 10-12 days and it's paid for itself.

I'm looking at the DH 25 ton model at Lowe's and my question is whether that will handle most of what I throw at it? I'm in PA and split a variety of hardwoods that include walnut (which I know it won't have a problem with), ash, maple, cherry, oaks, hickory, osage, birch, locust, etc. I like the idea of the quicker return on the "smaller"model, so I'm just curious if people in the NE are happy with what the DH 25 ton model is able to do for them on NE hardwoods.

Thanks!

 

[Ashful]

I have been thru a few splitters, including hot-rodding my own, and I am also in PA, burning mostly oak, with some ash, walnut and maple. Here is what I have learned:

1. Go with a 4” cylinder. Depending on the pump and break-out valve used, this will be rated 20-25 tons. I have never run into anything my 22-ton (4” @ 3500 psi) rig won’t bust.

2. Go for speed over capacity. The 28- and 35-ton (5” and 6” cylinder) machines are just silly for the average firewood splitter, since they’re almost always way slower than any 4” machine, and the extra force is totally unneeded by most.

3. If you’re going to have to move it around your splitting are, as I do, consider weight and balance. Again, this favors a lighter design.

4. Avoid the fast 3.5” machines. These are awesome for guys never facing oak or elm, but they just don’t have the required force for our PA hardwoods. That said, always go for the fastest machine you can afford, at 4” and up.

5. Electric start is very nice, if you use it in cold weather. Also, choke is nicer than primer bulb alone, in cold weather. Remember, you’re pulling a 11 or 16 gpm pump full of cold hydro fluid, when you’re trying to start this thing, and the engine will be under very high starting load when that fluid is cold.

 

[VirginiaIron]

One other thing that could be an issue on the Champion splitter, it runs a Delhi pump, the same kind I had on my predator splitter.
The threads for the hoses are metric, and it is hard to find much about them.
My predator splitter ended up only running in the low speed high pressure mode all the time, and i couldn't figure out how to fix or replace it.

According to the pump specs it is running at 4100 psi.

 

[rowerwet]

I'm finally in the market for a log splitter as I have around 4 cord to split on hand and even though I love to split with my fiskars, I need to get through this stuff quickly and renting just doesn't seem to be cost effective if I plan on continuing to heat with wood for the foreseeable future. I always held back on purchasing because of maintenance (and upfront costs of purchasing), but now that seems more manageable than the 4 cords of scrounged wood sitting on my driveway and the hassle of having to pick-up and return a splitter for around $100 a day. Gosh, I only need to use it for 10-12 days and it's paid for itself.

I'm looking at the DH 25 ton model at Lowe's and my question is whether that will handle most of what I throw at it? I'm in PA and split a variety of hardwoods that include walnut (which I know it won't have a problem with), ash, maple, cherry, oaks, hickory, osage, birch, locust, etc. I like the idea of the quicker return on the "smaller"model, so I'm just curious if people in the NE are happy with what the DH 25 ton model is able to do for them on NE hardwoods.

Thanks!

I'm in MA on the NH border not far from the ocean.
I scrounge 6 cords or more a year, and don't get much choice on what I take.
Mostly I'm dealing with maple and oak.
I had a predator 20 ton that split everything I ever threw at it for years, then moved on to a DHT 22 ton half beam.
The wedge on the DHT keeps it from plowing through some stuff the predator never hesitated with , mostly because the predator is a 2 way split model, so it has a narrow blade instead of a blade followed by a thick wedge.
This doesn't stop me, I just have to take smaller bites around the edges of bigger rounds.

Tonnage is a very inflated rating anyway, if you do the math on cylinder diameter and pump volume, it becomes clear that most splitters could never hit the tonnage on the label.

The 25 ton should be plenty if the 22 ton can handle 4 foot diameter yard maples with tough twisted grain and knots

 

[velvetfoot]

On my place, I tow it with my lawn tractor.

Plus, I use a trailer dolly.
https://www.harborfreight.com/600-lbs-heavy-duty-trailer-dolly-60533.html

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I'm finally in the market for a log splitter as I have around 4 cord to split on hand and even though I love to split with my fiskars, I need to get through this stuff quickly and renting just doesn't seem to be cost effective if I plan on continuing to heat with wood for the foreseeable future. I always held back on purchasing because of maintenance (and upfront costs of purchasing), but now that seems more manageable than the 4 cords of scrounged wood sitting on my driveway and the hassle of having to pick-up and return a splitter for around $100 a day. Gosh, I only need to use it for 10-12 days and it's paid for itself.

I'm looking at the DH 25 ton model at Lowe's and my question is whether that will handle most of what I throw at it? I'm in PA and split a variety of hardwoods that include walnut (which I know it won't have a problem with), ash, maple, cherry, oaks, hickory, osage, birch, locust, etc. I like the idea of the quicker return on the "smaller"model, so I'm just curious if people in the NE are happy with what the DH 25 ton model is able to do for them on NE hardwoods.

Thanks!

I have used different splitters over the years. I now have 2 DHT splitters. One is the 22 the other is the 27 ton.. i like the 22 ton. Its my go to splitter. Quality is good, they work hard, the 22 easily goes throuth 36in stuff. I like the wedge design, i think it makes a big difference in how well it splits.. just my .02

 

[rowerwet]

According to the pump specs it is running at 4100 psi.

Splitter pumps have two sets of gears in the pump, one puts out high flow, low pressure , it moves the ram when unloaded.
The other set of gears is low flow high pressure.
There is a spring loaded bypass that unloads the high flow side when max PSI is hit, putting the low flow side to work, usually for the initial crack when the split starts.
You'll know this is working when you notice the ram hesitate before pushing into the log

Mine stuck in slow mode and I took the pump apart without finding the issue

 

[VirginiaIron]

......You'll know this is working when you notice the ram hesitate before pushing into the log. ... Mine stuck in slow mode and I took the pump apart without finding the issue

My regular splitter has no noticeable hesitation from fast to slow. I've seen this hesitation and it seems odd. My Champion has a slight hesitation that I do not like.

 

[Ashful]

My regular splitter has no noticeable hesitation from fast to slow. I've seen this hesitation and it seems odd. My Champion has a slight hesitation that I do not like.

How quickly can you shift gears? [emoji851]

Hesitation may not be the best word, as most likely just slow down when they hit an obstacle that causes the bypass to open. My understanding was that both sides of the pump are working in parallel, such as 8 gpm + 3 gpm = 11 gpm, and that the high volume pump simply bypasses via adjustable check valve when the desired pressure is achieved.

It happens so quick on my splitter, usually just at initial contact between wedge and a tough wood, that you’ll usually have trouble noticing it. Even when you deliberately watch for it, you’ll sometimes wonder if you’re catching it, or if it’s just your imagination that it slowed and sped back up.

Of course, I’m one of very few running 16 gpm on a 4” cylinder. 4 seconds for a 24” stroke, baby! [emoji41]

 

[Jazzberry]

How quickly can you shift gears? [emoji851]

Hesitation may not be the best word, as most likely just slow down when they hit an obstacle that causes the bypass to open. My understanding was that both sides of the pump are working in parallel, such as 8 gpm + 3 gpm = 11 gpm, and that the high volume pump simply bypasses via adjustable check valve when the desired pressure is achieved.

It happens so quick on my splitter, usually just at initial contact between wedge and a tough wood, that you’ll usually have trouble noticing it. Even when you deliberately watch for it, you’ll sometimes wonder if you’re catching it, or if it’s just your imagination that it slowed and sped back up.

Of course, I’m one of very few running 16 gpm on a 4” cylinder. 4 seconds for a 24” stroke, baby! [emoji41]

Wow 4 seconds. Thats nuts for a hydraulic.

 

[Ashful]

Wow 4 seconds. Thats nuts for a hydraulic.

It’s quick, but not unheard of. I think Iron and Oak’s fast cycle series is that quick, but they only have a 3.5” cylinder, and they stall when they hit knotty stuff. I’m talking stroke time, it would be 8 second full-cycle time.

I was actually aiming for 22 GPM, and 3-second stroke times, and have the motor to support that (344cc). But I couldn’t find a 24” x 4” cylinder with SAE-10 ports, without spending a boatload more than I already had on the machine, so I decided to just try it with the standard (SAE-8) port 4 inch cylinder and a 16 GPM pump. This also saved me having to upgrade all of the port sizes on my reservoir, as the factory reservoir ports could support 16 GPM.

If buying new today, I’d get a 35 ton machine, to get the 16 GPM pump and larger motor (hopefully at least 300cc), and then “downgrade” the cylinder from 6 inch to 4 inch, for the speed. I don’t understand the guys running 28 or 35 ton machines for splitting firewood, they’re just stupid slow, at the expense of capacity you will never need.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Merry Christmas you old log splitters!

 

[VirginiaIron]

Yeah, I split about a cord today and there was no noticeable hesitation when contacting rounds.