Which chainsaw to buy- stihl ms180 v ms250?

[D8Chumley]

There's a Mastermind ported 261 on CL here for like $650 with 5 tanks thru it. If money was no issue for me...
Sorry, $600
(broken link removed to http://lancaster.craigslist.org/for/5266252287.html)

 

[Jazzberry]

Here is a good looking deal for an 026
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stihl-026-W...885651?hash=item2a5a9d5093:g:zOMAAOSw5ZBWJvyH

There is also a couple of 024 bargains which is the same saw less a few cc. 024s are almost always a good deal and they sometimes run better than their twin the 026. 024 avs is the one you want. Forget the 025 / 250. Its is a homeowner saw.

 

[jeepmedic]

I have a 180 and really like it. The light weight, tool less bar, and overall performance makes it a great little saw. I use it mostly for limbing, but it will handle some 10" oak pretty good with a sharp chain.

If I had to pick only one saw though..it would be a larger one.

 

[D8Chumley]

Jazzberry ( or anyone who can answer ) you have piqued my interest in this 026/024 saw. For the 026 specifically, I see them on CL, some have the PRO emblem some don't but it looks like they all have the decomp button. How do I know without physically holding it whether it's a PRO and worthwhile maybe driving to see it? And conversely how to spot a non-pro saw. Not that I "need" another saw, but with the CAD.... Thanks!

 

[Jon1270]

For the 026 specifically, I see them on CL, some have the PRO emblem some don't but it looks like they all have the decomp button.

Only the Pro models of 026 and MS260 actually have (or had when new, anyhow) a decomp, but the base model MS260 uses the same orange engine shroud as the Pro model, with a black filler piece blocking the decomp opening. It's hard to tell the difference in a typical low-res Craigslist photo. The original shroud on the base-model 026's would not have a decomp hole, but some people refurbing an 026 will replace the OEM shroud and air filter cover with aftermarket MS260 plastics, which again will have a decomp hole whether it's needed or not.

If the saw you're looking at has screw caps, then it's an 026. If it has flippy caps then it's either a late-model 026 or an MS260. 026 plastics are flatter across the top, while MS260 plastics have a hump running down the middle. If a saw has screw caps but the engine shroud and air filter cover are humped on top, then it's an 026 wearing 260 plastic, probably aftermarket. If it has a screw-type oil cap and a flippy gas cap then it's an 026 with a 260 gas tank/rear handle assembly. The easy compatibility, the popularity of the models and the vigorous aftermarket for parts means these things get mixed and matched a lot.

The other differences between pro and non-pro are even less likely to be visible in small pictures, but if you go to see a saw then an adjustable oiler is a good pro feature to look for.

 

[D8Chumley]

Good info, thanks Jon

 

[Jon1270]

You're welcome. For the record, the only "pro" feature I really care about on these is the adjustable oiler -- not because it's adjustable, but because the adjustable oiler is clutch-driven and only moves oil when the clutch is engaged. The non-adjustable oiler pumps even at idle, which gets messy and wasteful in some cutting situations. I have an early non-pro 026 that I love in most respects. A decomp would be nice, I suppose, but it runs so well as it is that I'm not about to switch cylinders. I am, however, gathering parts to swap in an adjustable oiler.

 

[D8Chumley]

I don't care about the decomp either, I'm still able to start a saw without using it. Adjustable oiler is a nice feature however

 

[Jon1270]

Here's my base-model 026, just after I put it back together. It's stock except that I improvised a thinner base gasket to adjust the squish.

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[Jazzberry]

Here's my base-model 026, just after I put it back together. It's stock except that I improvised a thinner base gasket to adjust the squish.




Nice Jon. Thats why most pros keep an 026 around. Along with the power they are very light and agile.