I finally have a handful of fires under my belt on the new Jotul F55. Also lit the first break in fire on the new Jotul F45 downstairs. Its 40F out right now (mid day), was 21F this morning.
Cleanest the inside of the F45 will ever be:
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First break in fire:
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Inside a brand new F55. Only complaint is the back firebrick that is not flush with the sides, makes it a bit harder to load. It holds a lot of wood.
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The F55 basking in the sun, waiting for the coals to burn down.
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This is how most of the fires I've lit this season have been.Wife got cold, and I wasn't exactly overheated..
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You can proudly put your stove in your signature..Got 2 breakin fires done. Two more and I'm ready to go.
Another hard break in fire on the downstairs Jotul F45. Getting the paint really cured this time. With 30+' of chimney and only the two 45 degree bends this thing really has some serious draft.
Try shutting down the air earlier and watching flue temp vs stove top. I bet that number is even more misleading since that's a clad stove.Another hard break in fire on the downstairs Jotul F45. Getting the paint really cured this time. With 30+' of chimney and only the two 45 degree bends this thing really has some serious draft.
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Try shutting down the air earlier and watching flue temp vs stove top. I bet that number is even more misleading since that's a clad stove.
Huh. I didn't think you could smolder a non-cat stove. What is the chimney setup on the F55?On the F45 I can close the air all of the way and it still pulls strong, if I do that on the F55 it will choke it out so I I close it about 75% of the way instead.
Huh. I didn't think you could smolder a non-cat stove. What is the chimney setup on the F55?
Gotcha. How tall is the stack on the F55?By choke it out I mean the fire is still going but visible flames die off and the temps start to slowly go down. If i move the air control about 75% closed it runs as usual with secondaries and dark blue flame.
I imagine when I run it harder (fuller loads and more coals) as the weather gets colder I'll be able to move the air primary control all the way closed.
What flue temps are you seeing? I have a surface meter, maybe 15" above the stove top.My stove used to keep going with the air control turned all the way down and the hottest part raging at 700df. Then I stopped looking at stove top temp and only looked at the pipe thermo. Now I can close it down earlier, run it 20-25% open in the shoulder season and then get most of the heat out of the wood. In mid winter it's more like 5-15% open but I still started turning down sooner. Begreen suggested it in several threads and I did the same and it worked, total control over the fire.
What flue temps are you seeing? I have a surface meter, maybe 15" above the stove top.
I fired her T5 tonight, top-down start in the back, where the fire would have to work its way upstream to get more wood burning. It went pretty well, I cut air pretty early, and flue temp surface meter leveled off at maybe 450, stove top looked like it would go a little over 700 and level out, the way the load was burning. I told her to keep an eye on it, and call me if it headed north of 750. I didn't hear from her.
But it was still 50 outside when I started that load, so low draft was moderating the burn..
I'll try being even more aggressive cutting the air tomorrow when I burn another load. But at the same time, I want to get stove temp up quickly for a clean burn, so it seems like it's going to be a balancing act between getting reburn temp quickly, yet not getting too much wood burning and gassing.
Then, after these two 40* nights, it gets warmer and we won't burn again for several days.
It is still going here.First fire last night, October 16. Gypsy immediately took the little shearling throw on the couch when my wife got up. Whiskers didn't join me on the porch for a cigar (not that he has one), preferring the back of the loveseat in the 70-degree den.
Quite the nor'easter last night. 90 mph wind gust in Provincetown. Worcester received 3 1/4 inches rain.
What a difference a day makes! I built a top-down load in the T5 with a couple big White Ash on the bottom, then a couple small splits, soft Maple and Red Elm, a couple kindling and a SuperCedar chunk, starting the fire in the back of the box. I started cutting air at 250 on the surface flue meter. The secondary was firing and plume was clean at 15 minutes. I shut the air and key damper soon after that, the big rounds were starting to catch, secondary still firing, so I left it in the hands of my SIL shortly after.I stopped looking at stove top temp and only looked at the pipe thermo...Begreen suggested it in several threads and I did the same and it worked, total control over the fire.
You may find that with the chamber on top of your stove extracting heat from the exhaust, it may keep the flue a bit cooler and strong draft won't affect you as much as it might with a different stove..My flue temps are lower than I'd like with the giant flue, they never go above 350df surface temp. This is partly due to my stove design...We shall see how things go in the future with a proper insulated liner.
You may find that with the chamber on top of your stove extracting heat from the exhaust, it may keep the flue a bit cooler and strong draft won't affect you as much as it might with a different stove..
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