whats the cost of installation?

[gramesj]

He said that he would add extra length to be buried in the spring, and to do the hook up in spring would be extra charge in the spring.

A lot of people really don't like the idea of a wood stove on a rental. I under stand that they will need to keep the fire going, but from what I can figure out from all the reading is that if the boiler goes out it won't freeze as long as the circulation pump still works. And this makes sense to me since the gas furnace will be there to jump back in the game if the wood boiler stops or slows down. If the wood boiler stops getting fed wood as long as the water is circulated then the heat exchanger would just work in reverse, heating the wood boiler. So if the renters do not with to take the time to load the furnace then they can pay for the gas. Also until just 10 or 15 years ago a majority of people in the up use to burn wood in there indoor wood boiler, so most people prefer it over the cost of gas. It wasn't until insurance companies started bending people over if they even had a fire place in there home.

I would love also to insulate the house better. I totally agree that this needs to be done and I'm going to look into that. One big project at a time. I am no where near rich so I have to pick my battles. But the renters moving in now, the husband works in the wood so he gets wood super cheap and has a couple boys to feed the stove. I talked to the wife about it and she knows and likes outdoor wood boilers.




Thanks for all the advice on renters guys I appreciate it, But what about my original question? How does that quote sound? High, low?

 

[gramesj]

I agree with the guys that said the quote was about right. I did every bit of install myself; buying parts, digging trench, setting boiler on pad, pouring pad, plumbing everything. The only outside help I paid for was a guy to help me install duct work in my garage and that was only $300. But with all the little parts you forget about once you start putting things in it adds up quick. I had about $3,500 in my install alone. I did have cost of concrete, insulation, and building materials that you may not have but that's what I paid.

Thank you for the feed back on the quote, I needed that. And this is what I keep seeing with what you guys paid for. You guys dug the ditch and laid cement pads and still came in way under $4,600. I'm thinking for that price this thing should look real pretty when he's done and I shouldn't have to do a thing but throw some wood in. Am I wrong or right?

Oh and also I an a cheap SOB if that helps

 

[warno]

He said that he would add extra length to be buried in the spring, and to do the hook up in spring would be extra charge in the spring.

A lot of people really don't like the idea of a wood stove on a rental. I under stand that they will need to keep the fire going, but from what I can figure out from all the reading is that if the boiler goes out it won't freeze as long as the circulation pump still works. And this makes sense to me since the gas furnace will be there to jump back in the game if the wood boiler stops or slows down. If the wood boiler stops getting fed wood as long as the water is circulated then the heat exchanger would just work in reverse, heating the wood boiler.

Thanks for all the advice on renters guys I appreciate it, But what about my original question? How does that quote sound? High, low?

I wouldn't go as far as saying it WON'T freeze if the circ stays running. It will be less likely but think about a waterfall freezing it takes alot but it happens. And in the the U.P. you definitely have cold enough temps to do the job. I would make sure at the very least the boiler water stays above 32 degrees and the circ running. So you might think about some type of prevention either a form of electrical element in the boiler or glycol in the system. If your renter simply refuses to build a fire ever I garrantee in a U.P. winters time you will have issues.

I would say your original quote, assuming the guy does a good job, is on point.

 

[gramesj]

I wouldn't go as far as saying it WON'T freeze if the circ stays running. It will be less likely but think about a waterfall freezing it takes alot but it happens. And in the the U.P. you definitely have cold enough temps to do the job. I would make sure at the very least the boiler water stays above 32 degrees and the circ running. So you might think about some type of prevention either a form of electrical element in the boiler or glycol in the system. If your renter simply refuses to build a fire ever I garrantee in a U.P. winters time you will have issues.

I would say your original quote, assuming the guy does a good job, is on point.

That's not a bad idea. I could buy a block heater like for a diesel and just weld a threaded fitting on the water jacket.

 

[salecker]

Seeing you are renting out the house.....
I would not be expecting tenets to use an old wood heater.
First the old wood heater probably is of questionable quality,to add to that you are looking at questionable under ground lines,
Are you willing to have a HVAC guy come and trouble shoot your heater when the tenets call and say they can't get heat out of the heater,then are you willing to spend the extra money to replace the used heater when it craps out in a year or two.This is after the tenets have called you 20 times in the middle of the night because they are cold,heater has sprung a leak,heater is full of creosote because the free wood happens to be green,but it's free.
You have to look at it this way,are you willing to walk away from the price of the used heater,bad piping,expensive installation,and multiple service calls.Just to do it all over again with quality components that you should have bought in the first place. If the answer is yes then go for it.Otherwise really think this through especially if you can't go trouble shoot the system yourself from you home,because the rental is to far away.
Thomas

 

[garmford]

I would think that running the circ pump would work if you're gone for a long weekend and can't load the boiler for a day or two but anything more than that would put a strain on the gas furnace. Even if the water cools down to 50* your HX is going to act like a air conditioning coils. It's going to rob the btu's from the forced air furnace and you'll be buying a lot more gas to run that. I think the block heater is an ok idea if you lived there, then you would be sure that it was always working. Though glycol is more expensive, it's cheap insurance in case your renter decides that it's too much work dealing with the boiler and let's it freeze up on you. It sounds like your new renter will be reliable and diligent to run and maintain the boiler but how's the next one going to be? I would spend that money on new windows and insulation and use the gas furnace. Just my $.02.

 

[warno]

Seeing you are renting out the house.....
I would not be expecting tenets to use an old wood heater.
First the old wood heater probably is of questionable quality,to add to that you are looking at questionable under ground lines,
Are you willing to have a HVAC guy come and trouble shoot your heater when the tenets call and say they can't get heat out of the heater,then are you willing to spend the extra money to replace the used heater when it craps out in a year or two.This is after the tenets have called you 20 times in the middle of the night because they are cold,heater has sprung a leak,heater is full of creosote because the free wood happens to be green,but it's free.
You have to look at it this way,are you willing to walk away from the price of the used heater,bad piping,expensive installation,and multiple service calls.Just to do it all over again with quality components that you should have bought in the first place. If the answer is yes then go for it.Otherwise really think this through especially if you can't go trouble shoot the system yourself from you home,because the rental is to far away.
Thomas

This is all good info and things to think about for sure.

I forgot to say also, I cannot stress enough that you need to use a good quality underground line. The bubble wrap crap will be sure to let you down as it has many many people on this site.

 

[gramesj]

I agree with the guys that said the quote was about right. I did every bit of install myself; buying parts, digging trench, setting boiler on pad, pouring pad, plumbing everything. The only outside help I paid for was a guy to help me install duct work in my garage and that was only $300. But with all the little parts you forget about once you start putting things in it adds up quick. I had about $3,500 in my install alone. I did have cost of concrete, insulation, and building materials that you may not have but that's what I paid.

I appreciate the cost break down. I was more worried that because I was out of state the guy thought I was loaded with money and just trying to take advantage of me. But from what everyone has said it sounds like the quote is good. I called the guy today to tell him to go ahead with the install. It's going to be some logistics before I get to him.

Next year will be all the insulation and air sealing.

 

[Dutchie84]

As a landlord, good luck!

 

[salecker]

As a landlord, good luck!

What he said X2
just out of morbid curiosity,what make is the used water heater?

 

[Bad LP]

This for sure.