I read most of it. The significant thing I took away from it is the concept of Neutral Pressure Plane, which the author argues will naturally tend to be higher in the house due to the location of primary leaks (second floor / attic), and that this will want to make the chimney negatively draft. He explains that you're fighting that tendency with the fact that the house is (hopefully) warmer than the outside, thus forcing positive (upward) draft. Now back to the OP, in which the indoors is as cold as (or colder than) outdoors, and it seems the author is arguing that the chimney will go into negative draft.Did you look at the link I provided? You do not *have* to add energy to the system to get flow. There are always dynamics available to drive flow through a chimney. Adding energy biases the system so you get the desired flow. Maybe I misunderstood your original question?
We're talking about Highbeam's workshop, and in the case of my workshop, it is very often colder inside than outside... especially in March thru June.No house is "cold", there is always some heating effect even if just from the sun, so there will almost always be some stack effect.
There's more to it. It's not the delta P or delta T between one end and the other. Think about the straw in your water glass much higher P at the bottom than at the top but no flow. Even if your glass is 100 feet deep.
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