And to expand on this, it’s because Roxul is fire rated and that faced fiberglass will smolder and burn under heat.Please use Roxul as insulation, not the one pictured in your first post. This is very important.
I put one in just about every insert install.I have a question too. All my reading on these plates always are with exterior chimneys. Are there any benefits for interior chimneys? Has anyone noticed a difference in heat/performance after installing a damper plate in an interior chimney?
Is there a concern about moisture being trapped in that space during the non-heating months? Generally speaking, trapped moisture is not a desirable thing with masonry, especially on older houses with soft brick.Well that space will be heated up by the liner anyways. Since its blocked off up top and bottom, there no cold air intrusion and it will just keep that space warm
This is excellent information. Thank you for sharing. This really helped drive it home. “It’s worth it”.Checking in as a dis-interested observer. I have been a member here for, I dunno, 6-8 years.
I own a freestander. I didn't know what "block off plate" was when I joined here.
In all of my time here, the number of folks who have come back and said "I put in a block off plate like you guys told me to do, and it was a waste of money." Is zero.
In all of my time here, the number of folks who come back and say "Wow, my stove is putting way more heat into my house since I put in the block off plate." Is 100%.
I am happy for you that you are satisfied with the current performance of your insert. You are welcome to cut and split and stack and burn all the cordwood you want, makes no nevermind to me. If you come back here in a few weeks and post up that your new block off plate was a waste of money, you will be the first one I heard of around here, ever.
Good luck and best wishes.
Thanks for the follow up! I will definitely NOT use the Kraft-faced fiberglass insulation I showed in the photo.Please use Roxul as insulation, not the one pictured in your first post. This is very important.
For me personally, it’s not a concern. But that’s because I live in Colorado which is a high altitude desert. We don’t have moisture related problems like most do.Is there a concern about moisture being trapped in that space during the non-heating months? Generally speaking, trapped moisture is not a desirable thing with masonry, especially on older houses with soft brick.
Even if it didn't have the vapor barrier, fiberglass insulation is not appropriate for contact with the liner. It has a lower melting point than a mineral or ceramic wool like Roxul or Kaowool.Thanks for the follow up! I will definitely NOT use the Kraft-faced fiberglass insulation I showed in the photo.
I actually have a phone call in to my installer (left a voicemail for a callback). I’m not going to be rude or accusational or anything, but I genuinely want to know what he says. I’m gonna say “hey, so I noticed this insulation you left for me has vapor barrier paper on it. Is this safe to use?”. I’m just curious what he says. Will let you all know.
yeah! I was thinking that I might as well do that while I'm in there. My fireplace has what looks like cement board already in place, or possible it's part of a cement form? I think it's original (1973) because it is flush with the sides/top of firebox like it was supposed to be there.Next you will want to insulate that fireplace, it has been proven to help keep the heat in the insert and blown out via the fans, not out to the masonry and warm the outside.
See my signature to learn more.
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