Western Alaskan seeking stove advice for burning driftwood
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Hi all! If you've been following the news you'll find out that 'Uncle Ted's' been lining his own pockets with some of that money! But does that really surprise anyone?
Anyway, I want to thank all of you again for the laughs and the advice, especially Tom Oyen-The Chimney Sweep, his salesman Paul, Mr. BeGreen and the True Patriot. I've settled on a Pacific Energy Alderlea T5. I'm banking (no pun intended) on the welded steel box with the stainless steel innards that are replaceable, but cashing in the bank for the classy cast iron outside. Now if I can just get it on the last barge out of Seattle before the fall storms arrive! I'll have to run the dreaded driftwood test without your help but I'll keep you posted on the results!
And to Rick, Hogwildz and Gooserider - I'll keep the stove warm, the beer cold, and the northern lights on for your arrival!
Thanks again everyone!
Happy Ice Trails!
'Bering Sea Sue'
Anyway, I want to thank all of you again for the laughs and the advice, especially Tom Oyen-The Chimney Sweep, his salesman Paul, Mr. BeGreen and the True Patriot. I've settled on a Pacific Energy Alderlea T5. I'm banking (no pun intended) on the welded steel box with the stainless steel innards that are replaceable, but cashing in the bank for the classy cast iron outside. Now if I can just get it on the last barge out of Seattle before the fall storms arrive! I'll have to run the dreaded driftwood test without your help but I'll keep you posted on the results!
And to Rick, Hogwildz and Gooserider - I'll keep the stove warm, the beer cold, and the northern lights on for your arrival!
Thanks again everyone!
Happy Ice Trails!
'Bering Sea Sue'
NW Alaska,
I can relate to your situation. I was an installer for Quadrafire/Harman dealer for awhile after retiring from the military. I would recommend against buying a harmon woodstove although the coal stoves are great, the wood models are 5 years behind most manufacturers, (they are coming up fast however).
That said, Quadrafire makes about the best stove out there. Some models like the cumberland gap have had some problems with the ash door warping however. If you want my opinion, the tried and tru step-top models are the way to go ...like the 5700....I've been to peoples 2500 square foot homes that do not use any other heat source! This is a furnace man!
Have you looked a regency stoves? They have copied Q-fires design and make a great stove for less money!
One more thing....there is a company in Minnesota called "Yukon Eagle" They have been making wood furnaces with 30 year warranties on the firebox since 1972. I was going to buy one but opted for a Quad because I would've needed a new chimney for the wood furnace and Ive got the chimney for the insert (5100i).
I hope this helps. Pacific Energy makes a great stove as well. Good luck.
p.s. when you go to the Quadrafire website, check out the diagram on the "4 point burn technology" it's an eye opener.
Jim Ross
I can relate to your situation. I was an installer for Quadrafire/Harman dealer for awhile after retiring from the military. I would recommend against buying a harmon woodstove although the coal stoves are great, the wood models are 5 years behind most manufacturers, (they are coming up fast however).
That said, Quadrafire makes about the best stove out there. Some models like the cumberland gap have had some problems with the ash door warping however. If you want my opinion, the tried and tru step-top models are the way to go ...like the 5700....I've been to peoples 2500 square foot homes that do not use any other heat source! This is a furnace man!
Have you looked a regency stoves? They have copied Q-fires design and make a great stove for less money!
One more thing....there is a company in Minnesota called "Yukon Eagle" They have been making wood furnaces with 30 year warranties on the firebox since 1972. I was going to buy one but opted for a Quad because I would've needed a new chimney for the wood furnace and Ive got the chimney for the insert (5100i).
I hope this helps. Pacific Energy makes a great stove as well. Good luck.
p.s. when you go to the Quadrafire website, check out the diagram on the "4 point burn technology" it's an eye opener.
Jim Ross
Gotta couple things I wanta ask about:
1) I have noticed that drift wood is always very dense. At least that which I find in Half Moon bay California is. Could it be that the warping being reported by those burning it is not from NACL (salt) as much as it is the excess heat that it puts out because its energy density is so high? As a forever ex Vermont Castings owner, I can say that, in order to warp the insides of it, all I would have to do is burn dense wood for two seasons. Then it was time for the $600 interior replacement excersize.
2) If it is the NACL (salt) which is doing the coorosion, perhaps there is some chemical pellet/powder/crystal which can be added to the fire which reacts with it and renders it inert. I would have to re-study my chemistry to figure this out but if found, money is to be made selling it.
1) I have noticed that drift wood is always very dense. At least that which I find in Half Moon bay California is. Could it be that the warping being reported by those burning it is not from NACL (salt) as much as it is the excess heat that it puts out because its energy density is so high? As a forever ex Vermont Castings owner, I can say that, in order to warp the insides of it, all I would have to do is burn dense wood for two seasons. Then it was time for the $600 interior replacement excersize.
2) If it is the NACL (salt) which is doing the coorosion, perhaps there is some chemical pellet/powder/crystal which can be added to the fire which reacts with it and renders it inert. I would have to re-study my chemistry to figure this out but if found, money is to be made selling it.
Sue:
Another stove to consider is the Spectrum Classic. It has the same innards as the Alderlea T-5 but weighs a bit less because it doesn't have the cast iron cladding on it's exterior.
It is as durable as the T-5, and would be a bit less expensive to ship.
Looks good, too.
(broken link removed to http://pacificenergy.net/product_spectrum_classic.php)
Another stove to consider is the Spectrum Classic. It has the same innards as the Alderlea T-5 but weighs a bit less because it doesn't have the cast iron cladding on it's exterior.
It is as durable as the T-5, and would be a bit less expensive to ship.
Looks good, too.
(broken link removed to http://pacificenergy.net/product_spectrum_classic.php)
Fresh water driftwood should be ok. Split it and make sure it's fully dry. It took about 9 months for me to dry out soggy soft maple that had been down in a swampy area.
A neighbor asking me where he could get firewood got me thinking about beach / drift wood. He's burning in an open masonry fireplace, so apart from his ash trap door (if he has one), he won't need to worry about the salt I assume.
Anyway, for those like the original poster who don't have many other wood options, I can only suggest building a masonry stove like the typical "Russian" or "Finnish" stove. They are actually highly efficient if built properly.
http://mha-net.org/docs/v8n2/docs/Neubergthal-Story.pdf
Notice the links at the bottom of that article.
There was an excellent article about these in Fine Homebuilding at least five years back.
Here's another link: (broken link removed to http://www.hollowtop.com/cls_html/do-it-yourself/masonry_stoves.htm)
Nice to have a wood-fired oven for your pizzas and bread too!
Anyway, for those like the original poster who don't have many other wood options, I can only suggest building a masonry stove like the typical "Russian" or "Finnish" stove. They are actually highly efficient if built properly.
http://mha-net.org/docs/v8n2/docs/Neubergthal-Story.pdf
Notice the links at the bottom of that article.
There was an excellent article about these in Fine Homebuilding at least five years back.
Here's another link: (broken link removed to http://www.hollowtop.com/cls_html/do-it-yourself/masonry_stoves.htm)
Nice to have a wood-fired oven for your pizzas and bread too!
Grave digger.
Wonder if the salt air harms the mortar? I suppose not since concrete piers on docks don't seem to dissolve.
Wonder if the salt air harms the mortar? I suppose not since concrete piers on docks don't seem to dissolve.
Can't you split and stack the drift wood in low stacks and let it sit out in the rain and snow for a year to wash some of the salt off?
Highbeam said:
I live right on the ocean and I can tell you salt eats away at concrete, cement and mortar. It takes some time, but it does a number on it. Almost all the chimneys and stone foundations on the older houses on the direct waterfront in my area have at least some structural integrity issues. You can see this in areas that use salt on concrete streets and sidewalks too. It will slowly but surely eat away at the top layer until it starts to crumble with enough time and exposure..
LLigetfa said:
A lot of that happening lately as newbies come in and rediscover old topics . . . not a big deal.
LLigetfa said:
On one or two forums where I'm an old fart we try to welcome newcomers with something other than sarcastic remarks.
I could start of whole new thread I suppose; would that be better than adding to the existing one?
Welcome aboard our Left Coast friend. Thanks for adding the links to the thread - it will add to the value as a reference for those who choose to search the site.
Wetcoast Elmira said:
And I will gladly welcome you to the forum. Feel free to chip right in.
Some of the folks at times seem to sound a bit sarcastic but I don't think they really mean it that way, or at least I hope not. Stick around and you'll very soon find out what some of the guys are like and most are very decent folks. I too am a member of some other forums and hearth.com is still my favorite. I hope you like it as well.
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