Well pump issue outside- advice please

[mwhitnee]

That well head looks to be in pretty good shape. If it were my house I would just build a new pressure treated deck over top of it supported by the concrete. Should get another 50 years or so before it needs replacing again. If you intend to cover it with grass just take some measurements off the house or other fixed landmarks so you can find it and don't back a concrete truck over it by accident.

Gthomas thanks. This is what I'm going to do except if I use the concrete edge there will be a big bump in the lawn after, so I'm going to build a frame on the inside. I would have had to do some frame work anyway.

I've already gotten most of the frame lumber today. Will post pics...

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Look on the underside of that well cap. It looks like the kind that have a screened vent underneath near where the electrical conduit comes in. If it has a vent, it is merely vermin-proof, it is not sealed. Mold and bacteria can still get in. Every time your pump kicks in, the water level in the well drops down which draws air in. So whatever mold spores and such that are in that pit get sucked in. Plus, if the pit ever floods, that floodwater can go right down the vent, carrying with it everything that is on the surface including the dog's business.

It definitely would be better to raise the casing and fill in the pit - but it's your money, your risk. At least be knowlegeable of the risks you're taking.

If you're not in Wisconsin where such pits are prohibited unless by variance, you at least could raise the walls of the pit up a tad. Put a water barrier on the top edge of the pit wall, put concrete forms around it, and pour another lift to bring the pit wall a foot above grade. Construct your lid. At least then water shouldn't over-top the pit roof. If you really need to have it flush, you could landscape up to the pit walls, then there would be a slight mound leading up to the roof.

 

[zrock]

No do not use pressure treat... Being burred it will rot out in a matter of years.. not to mention the treatment of the lumber leaching down to the well as it starts rotting out.. Use cedar or some other similar wood in your area that does not rod when burred. Takes a good 20 years or more before burred cedar will start rotting and their is no toxic chemicals in it. Or spend the money and fix it right the first and last time.. I would not have even been walking over that looking at the structure. You can get a concrete 1/2 vault for around $500 from your local concrete company.. Ask for a second or slightly imperfect one and thy usually give you a deal..

 

[gzecc]

Composite decking if its not too big. Hinged steel plate with handle if it is.

 

[EbS-P]

Here it is. 5x5x5 I ripped the majority of the framing out.

make a PT deck and cover it with astro turf/ pet turf. On and off easy and won't be in the way.

 

[MTY]

You are most likely already contaminated. Pull a water sample, and have it tested. If the sample tests positive, and you do not mind the contamination, cover it back up.

 

[mwhitnee]

I appreciate everyone's advice and concerns. I love how people are willing to offer their time to a stranger.

My well is not contaminated. I have had it tested before. The pit was bone dry even when compromised- the dirt on the floor was dusty. It does have a screen vent on it. I have no concerns for vermin, flooding, or contamination from pressure treated wood- it is a 140 foot artesian well.

I saw the advice of a concrete cap, which would have been a good option, but it would obviously be hundreds of pounds and I don't know how thick it would have been. I don't think they make electrical caps 6x6 after doing some research. I will send pics of what I did, which appears to be twice as good as the last effort.

 

[mwhitnee]

Top seams of framing siliconed to prevent water from sitting in the wood. Four+ layers of plastic.

 

[begreen]

I'm not a carpenter, but a little dubious of the construction. The middle stringers don't look very strong with no ledger underneath them. Hope rustproof screws were used. Why were the top boards placed in parallel with the middle braces instead of at right angles?

 

[mwhitnee]

The middle stringers are 4 by 4's and are so tight I needed a dead blow hammer for one and a sledge for the other to fit them in.- I could easily jump up and down on them individually and I'm 185 lbs. They are also screwed in with high quality rust proof 4" framing screws.

The top boards are at a right angle to the frame, look closer.

 

[begreen]

The top boards are at a right angle to the frame, look closer.

Yes, to the outside frame, but not to the two middle braces. At least that is what it looks like if all the shots are from the same location.

 

[mwhitnee]

Yes they are. The shots are not alll from one location, look at the well head.

 

[begreen]

Yes they are. The shots are not alll from one location, look at the well head.

Ah, that explains it. I wasn't sure if the cap was rotated. Makes sense now.

 

[gzecc]

What are you putting on top of the plastic?

 

[mwhitnee]

Grass

 

[jetsam]

No offense, but I wouldn't try to keep a lawn tractor from falling into a hole with a few pieces of #9 steel wire, and that's what is going on with those middle two 4x4s held up with wood screws.

That center board has no support in the middle except the crossmember 4x4s, and they can only take as much weight as the fasteners you used on them can take.

If that is really assembled with wood screws, it's gonna be pretty dangerous when you cover it up. More so as time goes on, too.

At least it's not a long way down!

 

[mwhitnee]

You're not reading what I wrote. They are framing screws designed for construction. You pose the idea of me falling into the pit because of a middle board failing? That would be a squeeze for sure.

 

[jetsam]

A framing screw is typically #8-#10 steel wire with some threads cut into it. It doesn't have a different shear strength because someone wrote "construction" on the box. If you secured those 4x4 with screws and they're not otherwise supported, those screws are holding 100% of the weight that's on 'em.

So most of the boards have cement and 4x4 underneath the ends, and the strength of the board itself will hopefully keep it from buckling for some years.

The middle board is cut and all the weight is on those little screws.

I personally wouldn't have a problem walking over it, but I wouldn't drive any machinery over it.

 

[mwhitnee]

That's not entirely true. The center supports were smashed in with a dead blow hammer and a sledge. So they also have strength of how tightly I fit them in.

Say what you want about the gauge/type of screws I've used, I could drive my lawn tractor over this all day long without a problem for years. I'd be willing to bet that I will have to have my well pump serviced long before these boards failed, which at that point I can check the framing again.

Sure I could have poured concrete footers for all the framing including the middle boards, but in my opinion it would have been excessive and time-consuming.

 

[gzecc]

Not having experience with wells, could the original poster have used two of these corregated risers (60") then fill around with risers with dirt then put the cover on?
Is there some sort of maintenance that is required at the bottom of that compartment?

30" Seal-R Plastic Septic Riser Cover (Green)

30" Plastic Septic Riser Cover (Green)

drainageproducts.us

 

[begreen]

Looks like (well) case closed. We won't know how well it works out for another 5 to 10 yrs. Time to get out and play ball with the kiddo.

 

[clancey]

I am sorry and a old fuddle and knowing "nothing about nothing" I will give my opinion here--get ready for it--lol....I would not have anything like that in my back yard especially knowing about it...i would get expert water people on hand and find a way to divert it or drill a new well or put it above ground...That's looks like something you would bury a person in----maybe get a casket to seal it...clancey

 

[begreen]

and on that note... closing thread.