Well after 2.5 years of shopping I finally found a tractor.

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Do you know of any that could hold over 1,000 lbs?

Depends on your hitch, but I believe most cat.1 units are closer to 800 lb. However, keep in mind that it’s COG is about 4 feet aft of filled tires, so an 800 lb box is likely worth 1200 lb of filled tires. Carrying something on the 3-point is also the only form of ballast that actually reduces load in your front axle.
 
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Two words: ballast box.
I agree with the idea of a ballast box, but.......... ;)

Personally I have a hard time paying $300 for a metal box when I have an implement that is bought and paid for that I can use for ballast as @SpaceBus pointed out. German frugality I guess.

Plus it is one more thing I'll have to worry about storing and futzing with in the barn when not in use.
 
I agree with the idea of a ballast box, but.......... ;)

Personally I have a hard time paying $300 for a metal box when I have an implement that is bought and paid for that I can use for ballast as @SpaceBus pointed out. German frugality I guess.

Plus it is one more thing I'll have to worry about storing and futzing with in the barn when not in use.

I used to think that way. Trouble is, all of my heavy implements are so large that they become an obstacle when working with the loader in my wood lot. Also, the ballast box carries all of the tools I need with me when I’m spreading mulch, dirt, gravel, etc. I can’t do that with my 3-point snowblower or brush hog.

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I used to think that way. Trouble is, all of my heavy implements are so large that they become an obstacle when working with the loader in my wood lot. Also, the ballast box carries all of the tools I need with me when I’m spreading mulch, dirt, gravel, etc. I can’t do that with my 3-point snowblower or brush hog.

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I've seen some boxes with trap doors on the bottom and that makes it handy for transporting gravel or something like that. How much longer is the ballast box than your blower?
 
I used to think that way. Trouble is, all of my heavy implements are so large that they become an obstacle when working with the loader in my wood lot.
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Yeah I've had to resort to some unusual tactics to get my tractor turned around in the woods with my chipper on the back. I measured the length of my tractor with the 6' Woods brush hog, and pallet forks and it was a little over 27'. !!!

I like that setup you have with your ballast box. Did you just cast some PVC tubes into the concrete ? If I can find one at an auction in decent condition for under $150 I might pick one up. I think you've changed my opinion of them.
 
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I have a ballast box but rarely use it. The way I understand the physics is that my 600+ lb rotary cutter on the back is as effective as a much heavier ballast box because it's center of mass is much farther away from the rear axle.

As mentioned, it sometimes does reduce maneuverability in tight spaces.
 
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I've seen some boxes with trap doors on the bottom and that makes it handy for transporting gravel or something like that. How much longer is the ballast box than your blower?
Ballast box is less than 2' long, whereas the blower is probably 5' long. But length isn't really my issue with maneuverability, it's the width. The blower is 70" wide, the ballast box is only maybe 30" wide. That makes a big difference when maneuvering between wood piles, etc.

I like that setup you have with your ballast box. Did you just cast some PVC tubes into the concrete ? If I can find one at an auction in decent condition for under $150 I might pick one up. I think you've changed my opinion of them.
I think mine was not much more than $150 new, but it was more than five years ago, so maybe I just don't remember. I drilled holes in the center of four 3" PVC caps, transferred those hole marks to the floor of my ballast box with a Sharpie marker, drilled and tapped each 1/4"-20. Then I cemented those caps to four lengths of 3" PVC tubing and bolted them down into the ballast box so they couldn't float out when I poured the concrete. Filled the box with mixed concrete, then after it was cured I removed those bolts from the ballast box, so the tubes each have a drain.

Things I would do differently, if I were to do it again:

1. I would have cut a hole in the back of the box and welded a hitch receiver into it. I cannot count the number of times I've wanted a hitch back there, but didn't feel like removing the box and retrieving my draw bar.

2. I would use sch.40 PVC instead of the sch.20 drain pipe I used. I've chipped the lighter stuff it a few times.
 
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I’m thinking of building one of these. Except going to make the base out of a 4x4 piece of half inch plate steel my old man has laying behind his shed . Mounts for 2 chainsaws, also thinking of mounting several pvc tubes for tools, maybe a box for oil and gas and one for wedges and chains.
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Ballast box is less than 2' long, whereas the blower is probably 5' long. But length isn't really my issue with maneuverability, it's the width. The blower is 70" wide, the ballast box is only maybe 30" wide. That makes a big difference when maneuvering between wood piles, etc.


I think mine was not much more than $150 new, but it was more than five years ago, so maybe I just don't remember. I drilled holes in the center of four 3" PVC caps, transferred those hole marks to the floor of my ballast box with a Sharpie marker, drilled and tapped each 1/4"-20. Then I cemented those caps to four lengths of 3" PVC tubing and bolted them down into the ballast box so they couldn't float out when I poured the concrete. Filled the box with mixed concrete, then after it was cured I removed those bolts from the ballast box, so the tubes each have a drain.

Things I would do differently, if I were to do it again:

1. I would have cut a hole in the back of the box and welded a hitch receiver into it. I cannot count the number of times I've wanted a hitch back there, but didn't feel like removing the box and retrieving my draw bar.

2. I would use sch.40 PVC instead of the sch.20 drain pipe I used. I've chipped the lighter stuff it a few times.
Love the idea of putting a hitch on the back
 
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I like the idea. There's a metal workshop in town that might be able to make something at a decent price for me.
 
I like the idea. There's a metal workshop in town that might be able to make something at a decent price for me.
You can buy these and build yourself they are rated for 1000 lbs. I have metal laying around so I will build my own.
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You can buy these and build yourself they are rated for 1000 lbs. I have metal laying around so I will build my own.View attachment 247737
The guy I cut with has one of these that we use to transport all our equipment deep into the woods where we do all our cutting. We also sometimes use it to move rounds onto trailers or pickup trucks. They're very handy, if you don't have a loader on your tractor. He just covers his in 2x6 pressure treated planks.
 
The guy I cut with has one of these that we use to transport all our equipment deep into the woods where we do all our cutting. We also sometimes use it to move rounds onto trailers or pickup trucks. They're very handy, if you don't have a loader on your tractor. He just covers his in 2x6 pressure treated planks.
My thought is build it heavy and use it for tools transport and ballast for loader.
 
My thought is build it heavy and use it for tools transport and ballast for loader.

Just make sure there’s absolutely no way the ballast can ever fall off, then! That could be dangerous, losing ballast while on a hill, with a load in the bucket.

Having used these, I’d be a little concerned with the durability of that thing, with the amount of weight you really want for ballast. They’re fantastic at transporting 100 lb. of tools into the woods, or quickly static-lifting a few hundred pounds of rounds into a pickup truck, but I can’t see it holding up to the abuse it will see with 800 - 1000 lb. on it while driving any distance.
 
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Cool. What's the track width of your tractor, dataman?
 
I was just asking because the blower looked like it might be narrower than the rear tires, which could cause you trouble. You definitely want to be sure blower is about 6” wider than outer measurement of rear tires, or else you end up riding up on the snow and lifting the blower off the pavement.

I’m running a 64” blower on a machine with a 56” outer tire width, and it works very well.
 
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It’s a shibaura. And yes I think It’s a toss up between the bucket and forks.
 
That feeling when you realize that there is someone else nearby who is also using a blue tractor to huck around IBC totes of firewood with the end goal of feeding a Blaze King.

I think there must be something in the water.

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