Sullivan county,that real high end county,lol heard of it ?Where in upstate are you?
Sullivan county,that real high end county,lol heard of it ?Where in upstate are you?
Your probably way upstate close to the Canadian border or buffalo area...Yes i know where its is, but we call that downstate here If your fuse was blown you would have no power at all.
Hey, to folks from the City, everything north of Yonkers is upstate, lol! I used to live in the mid-Hudson region, which is tolerably upstate, but youse guys are really upstate!Yes i know where its is, but we call that downstate here
Your definitely right about that, you's are really upstate lol, and don't even consider my area upstate, or country like you mentioned. To us your area is west bumble f**k new York, and I'm in West bumble f**k NY LolHey, to folks from the City, everything north of Yonkers is upstate, lol! I used to live in the mid-Hudson region, which is tolerably upstate, but youse guys are really upstate!
I know I have to find my multimeter, but in the mean time do you think I should order the air switch, even though it clicks as you've stated it could be the components inside correct ? Idk if I should start off with that firstYour definitely right about that, you's are really upstate lol, and don't even consider my area upstate, or country like you mentioned. To us your area is west bumble f**k new York, and I'm in West bumble f**k NY Lol
Ok,yes the stove runs for about a minute, then shuts down with E2 flashing, as far as the cleaning goes, I gently tap both chambers to get the excess ash out, then I take my ash vac and send the hose up, then after that I'll take a regular shop vac which is way more powerful and do the same thing. Then I clean all of the fans, anything I see with dust, and clean them with a paint brush, then shop vac it, because I know that accumulated dust can stop thing from turning because of the weight. I also do that to the upper inside of the stove as well as the fire box, etc. I'll search for that video, and also check everything outside again. It might be the simplest thing that im over looking...If you bypass/jumper the air(vacuum) switch and stove runs,then you "might" need a switch.Does the stove run at all,now? The E2 code is set by the sensing of the air switch.Saw an interesting video on youtube about this stove, the guy cleaning it,when cleaning the stove side openings,also runs his stove flue brush up the sides of the openings,and also across and down,from inside the firebox.He took before and after temperature readings,and was a huge difference.
As far as it being a different themal disc, no it's exactly the same numbers, and as far as the temperature switch, right above the air switch, I didn't install that yet. I don't believe Ive dislodged anything because on Thanksgiving it was running so clean and hot... Then yesterday went to put it on and that's when the code came up. So in between the time I shut it on Thanksgiving night and yesterday nothing was touched at all till the problem arose with the E2 code. ThanksAny chance the snap switch you replaced,is the wrong one?Any chance you knocked off/dislodged any wiring connectors? Just pointing out obvious things we have seen happen.
I've found some alligator clips and want to just get everything straight about jumping the switches, so am I going to take the connectors off off the air switch and connect directly to the temp switch, want to make sure thanksOK,I will try,again.Unplug stove.Install a jumper,connecting the 2 wires together,electrically.Plug stove in.Try and start. If it does not,and comes up with E2,then, think about this---the stove uses the signal from those 2 wires to determine an E2 error.One of those wires is grounded,the other is power from the user panel.Both at the user panel.So,if it is jumpered,then there must be a problem with the wiring/connections,or control panel or control board have died,or have issues, unless you have caused a different issue,and the code is false.
I've found some alligator clips and want to just get everything straight about jumping the switches, so am I going to take the connectors off off the air switch and connect directly to the temp switch, want to make sure thanks
Now I've just jumped the air switch and it's not going off, but fans are not turning, it just might be the air switch, idk...I've just jumped the temperature switch,and I'm getting a code of E1
No it's not, just stays on but the fans never turn, and the sound never changes and sounds a little weakIs it firing up?
Ok will check on thatdid the combustion motor (exhaust) ever come on during the start ups? is the button popped on the (snap disc, thermodisc, High limit switch)?
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