Vermont casting dauntless

[Jarch2202]

I will start by saying that I have never spent so much time and effort into something and still lack proper understanding of operation. My frustration with this stove has been immeasurable.

I just bought this stove, without a cat,this year as I moved into a new house, and replaced the old stove onto the existing chimney system. It is a wall exit setup with 2 90s and is probably a hair too short to meet normal standards. However, when the stove is running well, draft is not an issue. The stove did not pass inspection, and the chimney did not pass inspection because it was poorly attached, I addressed these issues.

I am just so confused, I feel like every week the stove is running slightly different than the last, and I cannot even identify what is a “normal burn”. I understand that it will be different based on wood, draft, weather, etc. but this seems crazy how different it will operate.

I thought I had a good system going I could load this stove 3-4 times a day, depending on temp, and the coal bed could be fairly small after an overnight burn, and it would take a little bit, but it would usually get up to a good burning temp. I thought this was going well, then I popped open the cleaning cap, and watched flakes of creosote pour out, about 2-3 handfuls. A whole bunch more flaked out when I swept it. I thought this may be a chimney problem, maybe some damaged insulation that was missed in the inspection that’s cooling off the smoke, but then I took apart the stove pipe and there was a concerning amount of creosote in there.

Okay, so I am not running this thing hot enough, so now my goal is to run it as hot as possible. At this same time, the air control lever breaks, and in conversations with the stove installer, they said it is safe to run as long as I can control the fire, and I can see the flap in the back opening and closing as I move the lever. For some reason, this coincided with some very hot fires, I was basically having to make sure the air control was closed immediately, and it would burn super hot fires, while still staying in a safe range.
I was like cool, but I still want this piece replaced. So they came and replaced the air control lever, awesome. Now my fires are not burning nearly as quickly. I can have very similar coal beds as I did a week ago, and the logs are smoldering.

So I am now thinking, okay, I need to make sure I am really heating up the back plate more in order to heat the little air hissing as I reload to get it going. That sound is harder and harder for me to hear right now. It is taking more time for me to reestablish the fire after long burns, and has been somewhat inconsistent. I know the manual says to keep the thermostat on the griddle, and I do, and I follow the manual with all of my habits. I also have a stove pipe mounted fan, that spins from heat. I notice when the stove is combusting it’s best, the fan is blowing, and my understanding, is that it should be, because I want the smoke to be hot all the way through. I am looking at the stove right now, with the stove top temp at 600, and the fan hasn’t spun in almost an hour, and the smoke outside is far from 0% opacity.

I do not expect anyone to read all of this and really have an answer. I am just at a complete loss, I don’t know what to do. I feel like there is something wrong with this stove, or I just got the wrong stove. I read reviews, but never got into any of the forums to read about how poor people’s experience is with this stove.

Has anyone had success? What the folk can I do? I’m losing faith.

 

[begreen]

It can be a fussy stove to run, especially without the cat. It tends to want to run hot to get the afterburner fired. I would add the cat to the stove before giving up.

 

[Jarch2202]

I wonder why the stove installer didn’t suggest that when we were talking through the decision.

I will consider this this summer.

 

[begreen]

The cat helps it burn cleanly at a lower rate.

 

[Eman85]

What wood are you burning? How long has it been cut, split, stacked and dried?

 

[Jarch2202]

They had no wood at the house before I moved in. I had what was told to me as seasoned wood dropped off in October one cord at a time so I could stack it and then get another dropped. I have since realized as I pass his operation, he splits the wood directly into the back of his truck to go drop off.

I have a cheap moisture meter and it has been varying, mostly right around 20%, I have done my best to split and separate at the season has gone on.

I imagine it has a factor, but I figured since I was trying to do mostly 20% it would be okay.

I am leaning towards kiln dried next year, and then have some extra wood dropped off for the next to let season.

 

[begreen]

That definitely is not seasoned wood. What species of wood is being burned? How is the moisture content being tested?

 

[Jarch2202]

It’s mostly hard wood, I’m not great at differentiating wood in the firewood form at this point. I know it’s a good amount of ash, maple, oak and birch. Not too much softwood in there.

Here’s a picture of the moisture meter I’m using.

I guess the wood would make the most sense. But I’ve been trying to separate out the wet wood. Some of it has been closer to 30% that I’ve stashed for next year.

 

[begreen]

Before testing, is the wood being resplit, then tested on the freshly exposed center of the split? This would preferably be done with a thick split at room temperature.

 

[all night moe]

Is the wood being resplit, then tested on the freshly exposed center of the split?

And with the prongs parallel with the grain. Don't forget, split needs to be room temp, then split so readings are on a fresh inner surface.

I am betting, much of your wood is above 20%. Especially the oak.

 

[begreen]

Yes, after asking this question a thousand times, I have to economize with words.

 

[Jarch2202]

I freshly split the wood and test, usually parallel with the grain. I have never done this with room temperature wood. It is always with cold wood.

so I guess all of my frustration is coming from the wood then. I guess that’s reassuring.

 

[gthomas785]

IMO, VC did their customers a disservice by creating and advertising the flexburn system. It was originally designed to be a catalytic stove. Can you run it without the catalyst? Yes, but you will have a tougher time, need to run it hotter, and create more creosote. If it worked just as well without the cat then nobody would use the cat.
Put the catalyst in and you'll have a proper catalytic stove.
Oh yeah and it hates damp wood so aim to set yourself up with a multi-year wood rotation if at all possible.

 

[Jarch2202]

This is a good thing to consider. Thank you for your input.

 

[begreen]

I freshly split the wood and test, usually parallel with the grain. I have never done this with room temperature wood. It is always with cold wood.

so I guess all of my frustration is coming from the wood then. I guess that’s reassuring.

So far it sounds like good diligence with the wood has been practiced. Maybe some less than fully seasoned splits are complicating the issue but the stove without a cat can be tempermental and likes to run hot rather than low and slow. The short flue with 2 90º turns is making things worse. This stove needs adequate draft to function properly. Added up, it's a trifecta of issues, as reported.

 

[skb31]

I am leaning towards kiln dried next year, and then have some extra wood dropped off for the next to let season.

I would check your manual in reference to kiln dried wood. The manual for my stove tells me to avoid it.

 

[all night moe]

Yes, after asking this question a thousand times, I have to economize with words.

How about a sticky in ''the wood shed?''
At least a link could be posted.

I can't imagine how redundant it must be for you. I've only been here for 10yrs. Was just going to wait for someone else to post and keep reading...LOL.

 

[bigealta]

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[begreen]

He mistated his cross grain test which showed 19.8% moisture content, not 16.9% like he claims. That is a small difference of a percent.

 

[Jarch2202]

So far it sounds like good diligence with the wood has been practiced. Maybe some less than fully seasoned splits are complicating the issue but the stove without a cat can be tempermental and likes to run hot rather than low and slow. The short flue with 2 90º turns is making things worse. This stove needs adequate draft to function properly. Added up, it's a trifecta of issues, as reported.

I really appreciate your time, it means a lot. I’m close to throwing in the towel this year. I will likely bring in a different chimney company and potentially have a new one built, at least extend. A quick call to the installer and they said they could install the cat this spring. Some wood getting dropped off once the ground is dry and getting it stacked in a shed I’m planning to build this spring. Hopefully next season will bring less obsession and more worry free heat.

 

[Jarch2202]

I would check your manual in reference to kiln dried wood. The manual for my stove tells me to avoid it.

Good call.

 

[begreen]

Softening the interior 90º turn with a pair of 45º elbows in an offset will also help.

 

[stoveliker]

I would check your manual in reference to kiln dried wood. The manual for my stove tells me to avoid it.

Does your manual provide a reason for that advice?
I've never heard of this, and see no reason why?

What matters is that no additives are in the wood, and that it's dry enough (not all kiln dried wood is!).

 

[begreen]

Does your manual provide a reason for that advice?
I've never heard of this, and see no reason why?

What matters is that no additives are in the wood, and that it's dry enough (not all kiln dried wood is!).

There are a few that say this. The Dauntless manual is one.

C. Wood Burning Operation

Burn only solid wood in the Dauntless FlexBurn® Wood
Stove, and burn it directly on the grate. Do not elevate the
fuel. Do not burn coal or other fuels. In the United States, it
is against the law to operate this wood heater in a manner
inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.

 

[stoveliker]

There are a few that say this. The Dauntless manual is one.

C. Wood Burning Operation

Burn only solid wood in the Dauntless FlexBurn® Wood
Stove, and burn it directly on the grate. Do not elevate the
fuel. Do not burn coal or other fuels. In the United States, it
is against the law to operate this wood heater in a manner
inconsistent with operating instructions in this manual.

But this doesn't say no kiln dried wood?

Drying it in the sun or in a kiln still leaves it solid...?