Venting through interior wall, then outside?

[Bradcole1827]

Yes, I'll provide a picture tomorrow. It's too dark now. Thanks!

 

[bags]

What about this? 45* inside straight out of the house into a clean out T laid on a 45* angle upwards. This would get your rise going up close to the exterior wall and away from the porch roof then to a 45* termination spun out away from the wall slightly turned down. The elbows are adjustable. At least the ones I used. You could keep it tight with the straight length coming out with pipe length determined by wall thickness and stove off set from the interior wall. Would that work? I think it still bumps you to 4". You might gain a little wiggle room there. Say if your stove has a 2" to 4" rear side offset would it kill your install if that rear off set came out another few inches from the wall to keep the outside pipe tighter to the exterior wall? You can have more just not less than the min.

I had some finagling to do also because of a window and inside corner and had to go up in size but I met and mostly exceeded my minimum offsets and clearances. My P68 specs a 2" minimum clearance at the rear. So,,,, I pulled it out 5" at the rear from the wall. Hardly noticeable and it accomplished two things. It kept me where I wanted to be with my outside pipe tighter to the wall and it also helps having the 3 additional inches of room behind the stove for cleaning and maintenance.

I think SmokeyTheBear has more to offer on this one.

 

[Bradcole1827]

I wanted to send off the picture that smokeythebear requested. Here is my house. The porch is to the right. If you measure 11 inches to the left of that exterior porch wall, that is the location of the interior wall. Hope this helps? I'll get back to Bags soon.

 

[chken]

I wanted to send off the picture that smokeythebear requested. Here is my house. The porch is to the right. If you measure 11 inches to the left of that exterior porch wall, that is the location of the interior wall. Hope this helps? I'll get back to Bags soon.

Okay, so, the pipe goes out, but it's too close to the window, so I'd put a 90 that goes both up and towards the bath, you know, on a diagonal, then a 90 that terminates. No need to go out from the house, as you originally proposed. So, in total a 45 inside the home, and two 90s, but set at a diagonal to do what you were trying to do with three 90s, and terminate without have to go out away from the wall.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

What does the wall area above the left side of the porch have on it?

That might allow the vent to come through the wall just left of the porch where a clean out could go, then straight.up, how far it needs to go depends on what is on that wall.

 

[Bradcole1827]

OK, here's a picture with more detail. The black square is the approximate location of cutout. The red is the pipe. The green dashed line is the interior wall. I'm not sure I'm following Smokey here. Are you saying to go straight up, nearly touching the edge of the porch roof, then venting about 4 feet above it? That may be feasible, but that's about 12-14 feet straight up, I would estimate. There is plenty of open wall area to the right of the green dashed line. area above the porch roof. It's all unobstructed, all the way to the second story roof. The porch is completely enclosed in windows on all 3 sides, meaning there is no where to find relief left, right, or above the porch widows on the exterior porch wall.

I get the 45, tilted 90, and terminal 90 suggested by Chken, but that's an EVL of 13 just in turns, and more than 2 in pipe, putting it back into the 4" pipe range.

Does this pic help clarify?

I think the pipe will have to either go straight up, really high, or somehow to the left, toward the wilted clematis trellis there (it can be moved, no problem) .

This may be a dumb question, but is there anything out there (approved) like an exterior flue fan that would reduce the overall EVL by moving (pulling) more air out?

Or are my options looking more and more like 4" pipe?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

If you come out and put a 45 with a jet cap pointing away from that corner plus install an OAK is the vent end at least 12" away from both the porch wall , house wall, above the ground and below the window then you might have one solution (but you will have to install an OAK, if you don't install an OAK then the porch window will need to be made non operational). Your trellis and its plant will likely need to go and you'll need to keep the area in that corner free of combustibles. This would keep it all 3" venting but there wouldn't be any clean out (one shouldn't be needed)

If the vent would clear the porch roof I would like to see the second story wall as going straight up would be my preferred run however this is likely in the 4" vent range and unlike others I would want my 4" run to start at the appliance adapter..

There isn't any approved booster for exhausting a pellet stove, adding a booster would make the installation non code conforming.
.

 

[Bradcole1827]

Smokey, I did some measurements. Assuming a 13", square thimble collar that is snug against the interior wall (dotted green line in photo above), thus maximizing pipe distance from porch, the "3 o'clock" position on the pipe (as drawn in the picture above) where it exits the house would be 5" from the porch siding below the window. The horizontal exit pipe would be 18"-20" above the ground. The porch roof overhang is 6" over the porch siding (1" too far for vertical pipe clearance, if plumb). So I could not go "straight up". Probably a 5 degree tilt away from the porch would clear the roof overhang. From the horizontal exit pipe to the shingles on the porch roof is 8 feet. I'll take a picture of the whole side of the house soon to show you the second story. Thanks again for your help and advice. Much appreciated!

 

[Bradcole1827]

Here's a photo of the whole side of the house. The dead vegetation in the corner are the remnants of a tall summer flower garden. They are on the agenda to get raked out.

Just a thought too... In the previous post, I said that the thimble collar was 13" square and it was snug against the interior wall. If there are thimbles with narrower cutouts that would allow me to get the exit pipe nearer to the interior wall, that might be enough to get it a couple inches further from the porch and thus clear the porch roof if going straight up. Are narrower thimble cutouts available? If not, what about scoring the interior wall at the corner so that I could tuck the edge of the cutout in there and get that exit pipe a few inches further away from porch?

 

[Bradcole1827]

Outside the box idea?

Total shift of gears. What about this?

Use the top-vent adapter custom designed for my stove. See Figure 22.3 on page 22 of the attached pdf.

Straight pipe up to back of stove, 1 foot above top of stove.

45 turn and run diagonal pipe up and behind the porch to indoor ceiling.

45 turn below ceiling to make pipe plumb.

Shoot up though ceiling/upstairs floor and continue 4-6 more feet straight up, indoors, above porch roof height.

90 turn, straight out through upstairs exterior wall, 48 inches above porch roof.

That's 2, 45s and 1, 90. 12-14 ft total vertical rise. About 5 feet total horizontal run.

According to page 15 of my install manual, that is doable with 3"

BUT! that assumes that the top-vent adapter attached to the stove does not add anything to the EVL. ?? Any know the answer to that?

If the adapter counts as a T, then I guess we're back to the previous posts, or I just suck it up and go 4".

 

[bags]

Sounds like a bunch of expensive pipe parts to me and will be 4". Plus a lot more work.

 

[Bradcole1827]

Given all the appreciated advice I've received on this post, I'm starting to think it's time to just go with what seems like the simplest, but not cheapest solution. I think this or variations on it have already been suggested.

Here's what seems most reasonable to me. But I am still open to suggestions.

All 4" pipe, starting at stove:

6" horizontal straight pipe out back of stove. 45 turn toward exterior wall.
12" straight pipe to exit house.
Clean-out T tilted 45 degrees away from porch.
6 feet of straight pipe (diagonal rise)
90 elbow pointing directly away from house
6" straight pipe with end cap
Trigonometry gives that 51" of vertical rise (70" above ground) and 45" of horizontal run (50" from porch).
No OAK

I calculate that EVL as about 21.

I'll await any last cautions to "avoid that" !

 

[bags]

If you do an OAK you might be happier. You can always add at a later date too. Looks like a plan. Sometimes you just have to take it on the chin and are more or less forced to spend more. All said and done you will be better off with 4".

 

[bags]

Out of curiosity, what is that white band on your roof at the very bottom of your shingle just above your gutter board and soffit? Looks like white metal? ? Why is it there and what is it? Thanks

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

The cheapest is If you come out and put a 45 with a jet cap pointing away from that corner plus install an OAK such that the vent end at least 12" away from both the porch wall , house wall, above the ground and below the window then you might have one solution (but you will have to install an OAK, if you don't install an OAK then the porch window will need to be made non operational). Your trellis and its plant will likely need to go and you'll need to keep the area in that corner free of combustibles. This would keep it all 3" venting but there wouldn't be any clean out (one shouldn't be needed)

That is 2 45s in total, a stove adapter and maybe 4' (you get to do the measurements) of horizontal and a jet cap all 3".

Going full above the roof line is 4" operation unless you can stay totally inside the house without creating a mess of the second floor. If that vent switcher attaches the same as your stove adapter would attach it counts as a 90.

In that case it has an EVL of 5 + half the vertical length of the vent in feet. at say a full 20 feet to get above the roof enough or 15 tops which is 3" vent range.

BTW the alert notifications don't always show a new post was made to a thread.

 

[Mt Bob]

My 2 cents,any vent ending in the out side corner might have problems with wind.Go straight out wall,90,up 1-2 ft above porch roof,slighty angled,tilted away from porch,90 amd jet cap.Look at duravent pellet pro cas combustion air systems,9 inch thimble,fits in 7 1/2 hole,most all mfg pipes will fit through it,and has built in OAK.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Which of Direct-TV birds is your sat tv looking at?

Usually an OAK on the same side as the vent stops most stove wind issues and the addition of a jet cap should further help. How clean his burn turns out to be will decide any smoke smudge issue.

But normally venting into the prevailing wind is a problem, one that going up the side of that building other than above the main roof will not always cure.

Bob's thimble suggestion might completely take care of pipe clearance issues for a straight up run on the outside and prevent the need for any angle in a vertical section if you decide to go vertical. Angles are not what you want on the outside in such a run if you can avoid them.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Out of curiosity, what is that white band on your roof at the very bottom of your shingle just above your gutter board and soffit? Looks like white metal? ? Why is it there and what is it? Thanks

It is a drip edge that the snow and ice will slide off of.

 

[Bradcole1827]

Thanks again guys. So it sounds like there's some agreement that Bob's suggestion may be a way to get around several problems. I like it. That gives me 2 more inches away from the porch, and should allow me to then clear it when going straight up.

I found this. Bob could you confirm that this is the thimble you are referring to? http://www.amazon.com/DuraVent-4CAS-WTPK-Inner-Diameter-Combustion/dp/B005EZ7158

So with a 45, clean out T, 90 jet cap, this is certainly 4", correct? But it's a nice straight vertical venting. The preferred solution.

Yup Smokey nailed the metal roof border question from bags.

I don't know which DTV birds I'm pointed at. I just know that it's pointed almost perfectly SW. The wall where the pipe exits points SSW.

 

[Mt Bob]

Thanks again guys. So it sounds like there's some agreement that Bob's suggestion may be a way to get around several problems. I like it. That gives me 2 more inches away from the porch, and should allow me to then clear it when going straight up.

I found this. Bob could you confirm that this is the thimble you are referring to? http://www.amazon.com/DuraVent-4CAS-WTPK-Inner-Diameter-Combustion/dp/B005EZ7158

So with a 45, clean out T, 90 jet cap, this is certainly 4", correct? But it's a nice straight vertical venting. The preferred solution.

Yup Smokey nailed the metal roof border question from bags.

I don't know which DTV birds I'm pointed at. I just know that it's pointed almost perfectly SW. The wall where the pipe exits points SSW.

Yep just installed one in my cabin for the second stove.Found better prices at unbeatable sales,but things change daily.I think they make 3" and 4",and 2" or3" oak fitting,but the 3" oak comes with a reducer.More info on their website,and hole for pipe is big enough to use other mfg flue pipe,but check.

 

[Bradcole1827]

Great! Thanks Bob.

Smokey.. You've provided lots of great input throughout this thread... Given this new thimble option, do you agree with the plan suggested by Bob?

And although it's straight and simpler, it's still going to be a 4 inch pipe, correct? I would need 12 feet of vertical pipe with a 45, clean out T, and 90 jet cap. And I'd use the OAK.

I'm feeling like starting a weekend project ;-)

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Great! Thanks Bob.

Smokey.. You've provided lots of great input throughout this thread... Given this new thimble option, do you agree with the plan suggested by Bob?

And although it's straight and simpler, it's still going to be a 4 inch pipe, correct? I would need 12 feet of vertical pipe with a 45, clean out T, and 90 jet cap. And I'd use the OAK.

I'm feeling like starting a weekend project ;-)

Go for it, just remember there is no guarantee about smoke stains and yes it is a 4" deal because you shouldn't trust 3" with an EVL over 15 and you are at 19 not counting any needed horizontal to get things to line up. Also remember the 1/4" in rise per foot on horizontal sections. Measure many times cut only once, do not modify the thimble in any way and never cut the venting.

 

[Bradcole1827]

I received more responses and great suggestions than I expected I would on this thread. Sincerely.. I'm extremely grateful.

I priced everything out. Looks like $400+ no matter how many deals I find. Unless I find some used stuff on Ebay.

At that price, this may take some time to get all the parts, but I will post pics of the final product when finished.

Thanks for the pointers in the last post, Smokey.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I received more responses and great suggestions than I expected I would on this thread. Sincerely.. I'm extremely grateful.

I priced everything out. Looks like $400+ no matter how many deals I find. Unless I find some used stuff on Ebay.

At that price, this may take some time to get all the parts, but I will post pics of the final product when finished.

Thanks for the pointers in the last post, Smokey.

You understand that each vent maker uses slightly different joint systems and sections from another are not likely to work together?

You are welcome that is what the folks here try to do.

 

[Bradcole1827]

Yup, because the special thimble is the unique piece in all this, I'll stick with DuraVent pieces.