Venting a Regency Hampton GCI60 pellet insert through a prefab/zero clearance fireplace?

[1Dtml]

Ok, I've learned how to post pictures, so here was the existing zero clearance fireplace.
Please note that this is not an endorsement of a DIY project for all, and I would highly recommend using professionals for all of the work needed to complete this project. I am highly skilled in most of if not all of this work, yet I'm still using an installer to put the stove insert and venting in place, and all of this work is being done and approved by local code inspectors (don't assume anything, and always get approval from the appropriate authorities). For anyone considering this project please read the install manual for the stove insert you are purchasing! This install is based on the install manual of the Regency GCI60/Enviro M55 insert.

 

[1Dtml]

I wanted to save as much as I could of the mantel, surround, and hearth.
I learned not to try to pry off the mantel (destroyed the drywall which could have been saved), but to remove the mantel trim pieces to reveal attachment points which can then be removed with minimal damage.
After the mantel was removed I gently pried the marble surround off, but there was too much glue on the side pieces, so I was only able to save the top in one piece, and undamaged.

 

[1Dtml]

With the mantel and surround out of the way I needed to remove the hearth, and I definitely wanted to save this marble in one piece and undamaged. I first removed the baseboard trim that was in the way, and then removed the carpet tack strips, so I wouldn't get all cut up working the hearth. I was then able to use a hand saw to cut away the two front corners of the rockboard base that was supporting the marble hearth. This gave me a good foothold for the flatbar to slowly break the bond of the glue.
This photo shows the rockboard after the marble was removed in one piece successfully, and also notice that the insulation contractor had filled the cooling fins with flammable insulation, so I'm very happy that we didn't use this fireplace much. :bug:

 

[1Dtml]

Next I removed the insulation, so I could loosen the stove to vent connection above the stove. I removed all the V shaped cooling fins, and vent mounting screws. I was then able to get the stove to vent pipe connection nice, and loose, so I could pull the stove forward, and out.

 

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Next I removed all of the mounting flange screws from the sides of the front of the stove. I also disconnected the outside air kit from the left side of the fireplace.

Here is where my inexperience could have been very bad, but this time it was better to be lucky than good...I guess.

For those trying this I highly recommend that you take a trip up on your roof top, take off the top piece of piping (rain cap), and make sure that the top of the chimney pipe is disconnected from the chase cap. This photo shows the rain cap (the round shaped mesh looking piece), and the chase cap (the square alum top on the chase).

 

[1Dtml]

After you make a trip to the top of the roof, take off the raincap, and make sure the top piece of pipe is disconnected from the chase cap you can drag the stove forward. My luck was good (for I didn't make that necessary trip to disconnect things up top), for the installer had not secured the top pipe to the raincap securely, or I would have surely ruined the chase cap when the weight of the chimney pulling down as I pulled the fireplace out of the wall.

Please be careful as you pull the fireplace out of the wall, for my vent pipe was not supported, or secured to anything except the top of the fireplace
So as I pulled it out of the wall the whole 25' chimney came down with it and landed behind it after I pulled the fireplace out. :ahhh:

 

[1Dtml]

Next I was able to disconnect one section of chimney pipe at a time, remove it from the chase, and carefully place the chimney on the base of the chase until the whole chimney was removed. The photos show a look up the chase, and the plywood fire-block that I installed after removing through the floor thimbles.

 

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I then removed the remainder of the outside air kit, and blocked it off from the outside making sure that it was weather tight.

 

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Framing of the approved fireproof box was then performed (as shown in the Hamptom GCI60 install manual). Notice that I provided a frame for the venting thimble so the installer was not drilling through the middle of a timber. I also installed the thermostat wire, and a flexible sleeve for the power cord, so all will be concealed from view when installation is complete.

 

[1Dtml]

It was now time to re-insulate (correctly and safely).

 

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After I installed the rockboard top, and sides it was time to frame out the fireproof airspace for under the stove insert, and hearth as shown in the installation manual.

 

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Rockboard installed as per the GCI60 manual, and inspection complete, so on to tiling after some additional preparations are complete.

 

[smoke show]

nice write up.

looking good.

 

[1Dtml]

I fireproofed all the seems, and installed a cord cap for power.

 

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The marble hearth goes back in, and the new tile is checked out by the wifey.

 

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After twisting my knee the wifey had to install the tile, so very talented is she. ;-)

 

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Wifey kept us on schedule for the installers, so the stove went in yesterday, and got fired up.
Mantel and misc are left, but it is throwing heat, so the rest can wait until I can walk again. ;-)

 

[DexterDay]

Wow.... Looks great.

Very nice write-up and documentation.

 

[smoke show]

Wow.... Looks great.

Very nice write-up and documentation.

x2

 

[1Dtml]

Finishing touches are done. Before & after.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

You and your wife did a very good job 1Dtml.

Trust you somewhat have your legs back under you and the knee is doing better.

 

[1Dtml]

You and your wife did a very good job 1Dtml.

Trust you somewhat have your legs back under you and the knee is doing better.

The knee is feeling better, but alas I need surgery.

Having said that, it's all good, and I'm keeping warm. ;-)

Thank you so much for the complements, and the concern.

1D

 

[mfglickman]

Looks great, love the tile too!

 

[inkslanger]

Im in the process of building the same kind of setup with a Harman Accentra. I was wondering what you used to fireproof the seams inside the box and if you ran the pellet stove pipe straight up the chimney without the old chimney sleeve. I will try to post pics. I gutted the old fireplace box down to the framing, framed out the hearth more, and the zero clearance box. I was gonna work on the rock board today, but im going out of town for a few days for work. I will post pics when i get back.

 

[1Dtml]

Im in the process of building the same kind of setup with a Harman Accentra. I was wondering what you used to fireproof the seams inside the box and if you ran the pellet stove pipe straight up the chimney without the old chimney sleeve. I will try to post pics. I gutted the old fireplace box down to the framing, framed out the hearth more, and the zero clearance box. I was gonna work on the rock board today, but im going out of town for a few days for work. I will post pics when i get back.

Hello there, I used the fireproof sealant that you use on the pipe install to seal inside the box.
I didn't go up the chimney chase, for it would be more difficult to keep it clean, and more expensive than going out the back.

Go to the M55 Cast FPI (link below), and then click on the technical manual, and Look on page #16 figure #12 in this manual for my exact install:

http://www.enviro.com/fireplace-products/pellet/fireplace-insert.html#M55castfpi

Another recommendation is to use ICC EXCELPellet venting (use their find a dealer search for your area), no leaks and no need to use sealant (except on the stove adapter) because of the built in gaskets. I used 4" venting.

(broken link removed to http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/icc/excelpellet-for-pellet-vent)

I hope this helps, and give a shout for any other questions.

1D