Vent help

[Og157]

I am trying to install a pelpro130 stove just to balance out my oil heat cost. The issue I have is according to my math, once I open the outside and push the thimble all the way in my exterior pipe will be 5 1/2-6¨ away from my siding After using 2/12” lengths horizontally before I go vertical. I really would like to be 1-2” away. Can I replace a 12” pipe with an adjustable 12” and how exactly does that install. Secondly if you look at the pic I have just enough room to install OAK to the right and 3” below thimble. Since I am going up 48” minimum am I safe to do so? My town inspector is a fail master and really goes above and beyond the code. Idk exactly what the clearance is but I would like to be in compliance. Thanks in advance

 

[tlc1976]

Can you pull the stove back away from the wall a little bit? That would reduce your outside clearance. That would also get the pipe joint completely inside the house, right now it looks borderline with the wall of the thimble. You don’t want any pipe joints within the thimble.

For the vertical, the stock pipe brackets put the pipe 3” away, which matches the inside clearance. I wouldn’t go less than that. Mine ended up being a little bit more than that, so I attached the brackets to wood blocks to make up the difference. Can’t hurt to be a little farther away as long as it’s secure.

The OAK can come out where you describe. Only matters in relation to the end of the exhaust outside, which will be a 4 ft rise so well away from it.

That’s all by the book anyway. Since your inspector likes to be more picky than code, it might be worth clearing it with them before getting too far.

Here’s mine, probably the same setup you have. The cord is for the exhaust fan bypass switch I use for cleaning, and it’s no closer than 8” away from the pipe.

 

[Og157]

I will try it in the morning, I didn’t know the joint couldn’t go inside the thimble but once I push the thimble all the way in the lap part of the joint is exposed. Duravent gave me a bracket for outside that barely pushes an inch. I guess I will source a new bracket too. how does the exhaust bypass work?
thanks for suggestion

 

[tlc1976]

I will try it in the morning, I didn’t know the joint couldn’t go inside the thimble but once I push the thimble all the way in the lap part of the joint is exposed. Duravent gave me a bracket for outside that barely pushes an inch. I guess I will source a new bracket too. how does the exhaust bypass work?
thanks for suggestion

The book doesn’t give an outside clearance, but I would imagine it would be the same as the 3” clearance they give for the inside. Here are my stock brackets, they are 3”. You could check with your inspector if your stock brackets are only an inch.



Your picky inspector probably won’t like the bypass. Or will Pelpro if you’re concerned about keeping your warranty. You might even have something in your controls to run the blower by itself.

It’s just a simple DIY mod. A heavy duty toggle switch in a box. It completely disconnects the exhaust blower from the control board. And connects it to wall power so it will run with the stove off. It really helps to cool the stove before cleaning, and suck the dust out while cleaning. Also really helps to force the ash out the horizontal section while I brush the pipe clean.

 

[Og157]

mine is much shorter. duravent skimped out on me. I’m gonna see how to extend it.

 

[rickwai]

The pipe you have is difficult to seal. You will have to fill the joint with silicone or the joint will smoke like a freight train. The better pipe to use is Duravent "Pellet Vent Pro "venting. It is smooth wall and silicone oring sealed with no silicone needed and can be taken back apart. Also Duravent makes a adjustable wall support bracket and you can get extension legs for it. Also you could use the 12" off the 45 like you have it then a 18" adjustable that would put your joint back into the middle of the inside 12" piece. Also be sure to fill the gap on your appliance adapter at the back of the stove if the inner stainless liner slips over the stub on the back of the stove.

 

[Og157]

Damin really. I can’t return it at this point. I only have 2 joints inside the house. I wasn’t going to use silicone on the joints but I purchased 600 degree foil tape to seal all the joints. Would that suffice?

 

[tlc1976]

Mine had the O rings, and I still had to seal the joints and seams in the pipes to stop it from leaking. I used silicone because that’s what I had on hand. Never had to take the pipe apart to clean it, I can reach everything with the brush.

 

[tbear853]

You can get even 6" sections.

 

[gfreek]

You can get even 6" sections

 

[Og157]

I didn’t have time today to finish the install but I did remove any oils at each connection and moved the rope gaskets up a bit. I went to the orange box and grabbed a couple of rolls of silicone tape. I plan on getting a good seal on the joints with the silicone tape and wrap it with the foil tape afterwards. I am a home remodeler and have sealed my fare share of ductwork and the elbows are usually the culprits. Wish they made high temp duct seal.
Does anyone put high temp insulation inside the thimble? In my head it seems unnecessary but I have a bag of therafiber rated over 2000 degrees.
Last question. Do I need to use high temp silicone where the pipe enters and exits the thimble.? I’m sure it’s yes but I saw a Duravent video where they specified regular silicone but haven’t come across it again to confirm. 20+ years in construction and not much intimidates me but I really don’t like working on the pellet stove. It’s crazy how fearless you are elsewhere but when working on your own jobs you lose a bit of your nerve lol

 

[tlc1976]

I didn’t have time today to finish the install but I did remove any oils at each connection and moved the rope gaskets up a bit. I went to the orange box and grabbed a couple of rolls of silicone tape. I plan on getting a good seal on the joints with the silicone tape and wrap it with the foil tape afterwards. I am a home remodeler and have sealed my fare share of ductwork and the elbows are usually the culprits. Wish they made high temp duct seal.
Does anyone put high temp insulation inside the thimble? In my head it seems unnecessary but I have a bag of therafiber rated over 2000 degrees.
Last question. Do I need to use high temp silicone where the pipe enters and exits the thimble.? I’m sure it’s yes but I saw a Duravent video where they specified regular silicone but haven’t come across it again to confirm. 20+ years in construction and not much intimidates me but I really don’t like working on the pellet stove. It’s crazy how fearless you are elsewhere but when working on your own jobs you lose a bit of your nerve lol

The thimble should be empty to maintain an air gap. And definitely high temp silicone at the thimble to pipe joint.

 

[Og157]

Thank you

 

[tbear853]

Maybe I'm reading posts wrong, but a thimble is intended to securely locate the flue pipe away from any surrounding wall materials.

Like when I ran my 3" pellet vent out of my 10-14" thick log wall, I picked an area of no spikes, etc ... and used a chainsaw to cut a 12" x 12" square hole, added a simple 4 sided edging inside made of 2x6 lumber. My pipe is about 3.75" outside diameter. The two sides of the thimble are 5.5" apart. There is a 5" inner telescoping pair of pipes, one attached to each piece of thimble. A 2x6 is 1.5: x 5.5", so after assembly, I had a 9"x9" square hole with a fastening lip to attach thimbles, and at the closest point to wood, 2" air space from interior 5" pipe slip joint surrounding the flue. Steel thimble and flue are non-flammables.

 

[Og157]

TLC thanks for you help. I was able to pull the stove away enough that the inside connection just cleared the thimble. I ended up with 5” from the siding and I made some custom extensions on the bracket. I did take ricks comment into account and made sure all my connections were super tight. I wrapped each joint with silicone tape and high heat foil tape. tomorrow is the moment of truth and I will burn in the stove for the first time. Hopefully the pipes don’t leak at all. Thanks guys

 

[HearhFlame]

The pipe you have is difficult to seal. You will have to fill the joint with silicone or the joint will smoke like a freight train. The better pipe to use is Duravent "Pellet Vent Pro "venting. It is smooth wall and silicone oring sealed with no silicone needed and can be taken back apart. Also Duravent makes a adjustable wall support bracket and you can get extension legs for it. Also you could use the 12" off the 45 like you have it then a 18" adjustable that would put your joint back into the middle of the inside 12" piece. Also be sure to fill the gap on your appliance adapter at the back of the stove if the inner stainless liner slips over the stub on the back of the stove.

Where does one buy Pellet vent PRO . Do big box store offer the PRO line or is there a reputable online store?