VC Resolute 1979 (III?)

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Yes I could be over thinking this. But what I was thinking is the OAK would have it’s own manual draft control.
Going to add this and if not needed fine but if I do use it and I balance pressure better yet. If my airtight way all the gaskets? If not airtight the Controls won’t work. I saw a 100 year old stove with fresh air intake and was not airtight, worked great.

Why don't you just try it without trying to rig it first. Less work, and yes, you are over thinking this.

Why are you worrying about pressure issues? Have you experienced them? Or did you just read about someone else who had them? And did those stories you read come from someone trying to heat with a Resolute or with a modern stove? Did they have three chimneys in their house? You are imagining problems that you will probably not have.

The Resolute had an automatic thermostat, way ahead of it's time, that works great, and if you ruin that and turn it into a manual you are doing something incredibly foolish. Have you figured out how the intake controlled by the thermostat works yet?

I appreciate that you are thoughtful and determined. And you are rightfully proud of getting your house so tight. But just take your foot off the gas and try the simpler, easier, and wiser way.

The stove is made up of many parts that are cemented and bolted together. Too many joints to be airtight unless it's never been moved and all the joints are perfect. The cement and gaskets slow the air way down, but some will inevitably make it in. Plus, in that picture you posted of the one inlet, does the pivoting cover fit tightly against the hole when closed (no it doesn't).

I am more familiar with the stove than I want to be, because I just rebuilt one about 2 months ago, and I operated one for 30 years.

Plus, if you try it without screwing with it first, you can always go back and cut that needless hole in your wall and potentially wreck that treasure of a stove you found.

 

[SpaceBus]

My house came with a beautiful, but broken, 1975 VC Defiant I. It's too much stove for our house regardless and we put it in the corner after it filled our house with smoke, due to a cracked Fireback and high winds. Anyway, it will get rebuilt and put in a future building or addition.

I love these 70's VC products, you will enjoy this stove. These old VC stoves are some very willing heaters, and I think ED is right on and you won't need any OAK. Worst case scenario you will have to cut a hole in your house somewhere not directly across from the stove, but this is unlikely. Even though this is an old stove, it will want seasoned firewood. This was an effort to build a more efficient stove before the EPA forced people to do it.

The real treat with these old Vermont Casting stoves is the screen for open door use. This is obviously very inefficient, but you can use it this way in the shoulder season when you don't need the full heat of the stove. Ultimately this is why I want to rebuild my old busted stove. Eventually we want to build a summer sun room on the north side of our house. It will be a three season room with the old stove for chilly nights. The defiant has huge doors and this will be great as a free standing fireplace.

 

[Hamlin57]

Thanks Spacebus and Ed. I wasn’t going to cut up the stove by adding holes. This photo of the fireplace shows a sheet metal part I added because the smoke would come out. Well the added metal didn’t help. Opening a window did.
I can bring in air and place it next to the intake. I am new to this and my stove experience is a Korea built line cast iron stove I had in a hunting cabin in Lexington Mi. New construction needs inside/ outside pressure balanced. I feel I have to do it some how. I’ll be sucking air in through the bathrooms air vents and stove vent. Would rather have a dedicated air supply. Thanks for the input.

 

[Hamlin57]

Had to prove the air pressure balance with a guy down the street, didn’t understand and had to walk him through it window open window closed.
Air tight house is just that.

 

[SpaceBus]

I meant a 3" hole in your house wall, not the stove. As long as it isn't directly across from the stove it will be fine.

 

[SpaceBus]

Also fireplaces need way more air than a stove.

 

[Hamlin57]

Ah, I knew the hole wasn’t in the stove. And I won’t modify the stove or cut holes in it. Read someone suggested a hole underneath a stove that was in a trailer. Yes, I can have the outside intake right next to the stove intake. And that outside air inlet will have an open and close on it. Gets crazy windy on Lake Huron.
Just got stove on a Harbor Fraight 4 wheel cart with The legs about 5/8” off the floor. Now can roll anywhere in basement. I want to wheel stove to the door and put the shop vac outside and suck the ash out of it. But the high temperatures are at 25-30 needs to warm up some more. Around the basement hearth is a 2” styrofoam thermal brake because I have hydronic floor heat. Photos tomorrow. I mention this because I have to tile the hearth. Photos will explain.

 

[SpaceBus]

Be careful with the shop vac. Ash will kill them. You can get a cheap ash vac at most hardware stores for around $150. I plan on getting one before the end of the season and I clean the flue again.

 

[Hamlin57]

Oh, did not know that. Maybe I’ll roll stove outside and hit it with an airgun 110 psi.
Just came from a friend place and he has a VC Seneca with a OAK . His house is 600 sqf and tight too. At the time he got the smallest stove VC had. But seems bigger then mine and takes an 18” log too. Has a cat and I don’t want that at this time, maybe for the upstairs stove. I need to clean the glass, soak in some window cleaner and use a green scrub pad?

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Oh, did not know that. Maybe I’ll roll stove outside and hit it with an airgun 110 psi.
Just came from a friend place and he has a VC Seneca with a OAK . His house is 600 sqf and tight too. At the time he got the smallest stove VC had. But seems bigger then mine and takes an 18” log too. Has a cat and I don’t want that at this time, maybe for the upstairs stove. I need to clean the glass, soak in some window cleaner and use a green scrub pad?

First, don't worry about the ash killing your shop vac, as long as you don't vacuum up hot coals. Just get one of the finer filters that specs ash, and shovel as much out as you can before vacuuming. And empty it out and lightly brush the filter off every so often. I've been using a regular shop vac for over 30 years. Zero issues.

Second, your shop vac likely has a feature where you can plug your hose into the exhaust and blow with it. I find that to be every bit as effective as a compressor for this job.

Finally, I like your idea of just having the outside air delivery near the inlet, with no stove modification.

 

[Hamlin57]

So VC is in basement of single story cottage roof is 4-12 ish. 13”X13” tearacotta flew. Bought a 6” flex SS pipe 9’ long. I now need the Tee with clean out and wondering if I can run the 9’ up the terra-cotta flue and seal with fiberglass in the fireplace damper area, think I have to remove the fireplace damper to get the flex through. So want to know if 9 feet up in a chimney that’s about 21-23 feet long? Michigan cold... also have 5’ of Ridgid 6” that I can add.
Was going to run all the way to top but was told by the guy who sold me the 9’ said that’s what he has been doing and no problems and I won’t have any. Your thoughts?

 

[SpaceBus]

So VC is in basement of single story cottage roof is 4-12 ish. 13”X13” tearacotta flew. Bought a 6” flex SS pipe 9’ long. I now need the Tee with clean out and wondering if I can run the 9’ up the terra-cotta flue and seal with fiberglass in the fireplace damper area, think I have to remove the fireplace damper to get the flex through. So want to know if 9 feet up in a chimney that’s about 21-23 feet long? Michigan cold... also have 5’ of Ridgid 6” that I can add.
Was going to run all the way to top but was told by the guy who sold me the 9’ said that’s what he has been doing and no problems and I won’t have any. Your thoughts?

I would run the liner all the way up to the top. Often times the flue system for a stove is more expensive than the stove itself.

 

[Hamlin57]

Okay, run the full length. The 1/2” insulation is the same cost as the SS pipe. Insulation too?

 

[Hamlin57]

So why is this okay? Or maybe it’s not ideal and should be 6” all the way through.

 

[SpaceBus]

View attachment 242061 So why is this okay? Or maybe it’s not ideal and should be 6” all the way through.

I wouldn't vent a 6" appliance into a 13" flue, it's going to cause a lot of problems. The liner is to make the flue the proper size.

 

[Hamlin57]

Okay, will do. Thanks Squirrel Power. Insulation too?

 

[SpaceBus]

View attachment 242062 Okay, will do. Thanks Squirrel Power. Insulation too?

I would use an insulated liner for the whole run. While reading threads I've seen people make a block off plate to go around the liner where it passes through the old damper area and at the top of the liner. My house was built in the 70's specifically for a wood stove. There was a 1976 VC Defiant, but it is inoperable and far too large for the house.

 

[Hamlin57]

Getting expensive. I can fabricate a flew top but through the fireplace damper might be a little more difficult. Guess I’ll make a template out of cardboard and get a good fit.
So now thinking I will run black pipe up from the flex and save some money. Did find 6” insulation, 13’ $80.00. Guess that will be next item to get and get the rest later.
Tomorrow I am going to the tile shop and get 5x5 slate for the hearth floor. Will post photos.
Thanks for the information, all the best, Dean.

 

[Hamlin57]

Putting down 12X12” slate over the concrete floor and next the pipe. Look at these photos of the options I have please. I have 9 feet of flex and a tee with a clean out. Going to post the other options too. But this is what I am leaning to. Thanks for the input.

 

[Hamlin57]

 

[Hamlin57]

Now seal and the I need to grout with a dark gray. Hook up soon! Can’t wait.

 

[Hamlin57]

 

[Hamlin57]

Where are you supposed to put the Handle?
Burning now for an hour and temps went from 44 to 47F. I am very happy.
No OAK hooked up, seems I don’t need it. So far I left the dryer hoes open. I have a flap that will blow inside or outside. Going to close it in a minute and see what happens.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Where are you supposed to put the Handle?
Burning now for an hour and temps went from 44 to 47F. I am very happy.
No OAK hooked up, seems I don’t need it. So far I left the dryer hoes open. I have a flap that will blow inside or outside. Going to close it in a minute and see what happens.

Looks great! Really well done, it's really a good looking stove and you did nice work.

The handle just hangs around near the stove, no on board storage. We have a little metal box next to the hearth where the handle sits when not in use.

It does get expensive, but it's money well spent, and as many have said here before, it's infrastructure, so the money has to be spent.

Only one observation, the handle on the front doors doesn't look like it's all the way closed. Should point straight down when fully latched. With correct gasketing, it's tight.

 

[Hamlin57]

Handle now closes all the way. Didn’t want to force it. Now closes smoothly. Had a bunch of coals on the bottom and added wood, got it from outside in my boxers.
Read a great article by Jack33, helped me a lot. Title was how to run a Older VC Resalot stove. It was EXCELLENT, thanks Jack!
Top load is a nice advantage, just open the flue and load it up and close it down.theres a photo ( color drawing) up top with the flue pipe going up to the start of the chimney, that is how mine is hooked up and seems to work like a champ. Now to build two woodsheds one small one out side my basement door and a bigger one where wood will be delivered. Is this a proper place to post photos?
Thanks to you guys and the Hearth site this went smooth.
Now to hunt up a stove for firstfloor fireplace.