vc montpelier temps
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My Encore model likes 500-550 mid winter. That's when the Everburn kicks in and the blower works on low w/o dropping the temp much.
IMHO, the temp can vary depending on where the thermometer is located and how good the contact patch is. It's hard to get an accurate reading on an insert. The reading on your insert may easily be way different than the reading on another make of insert. Just use it as a reference to tell when it's burning proper once you get used to the stove. Like allhandsworking said, hot. Be sure you have good secondary’s until coaling, use good dry wood, and you should be fine.
Steve
Steve
Yeah if you have secondary flames you are burning hot enough! when the insert reaches coaling stage you will not get any secondary flame but it does not mean your burning hot enough! The coal stage is actually the cleanest stage of burn. That is why you should resist putting more splits on. you will have nice heat output for a some time! When you notice the temp starting to drop its time to feed more splits. It will tack time for you to get it right! Its kind of like a women
I agree with Steve. Its hard to get good thermometer placement. Mine is inside the hot air outlet, 'cause its ugly, and I don't want to look at it. It reads only about 200 - 250 tops with the blower at the 5 or 6 o'clock position. Of course, my wood isn't perfect. Right now I'm buring some pine framing material from a monument company near the office. The 'better stuff' can wait for the cold weather.
'Hot enough' to me means a grey ash coating on the glass, white bricks, and clean burn tubes. It also means waiting a couple minutes for the firebox to get full of flames before airing down after a reload.
Gabe
'Hot enough' to me means a grey ash coating on the glass, white bricks, and clean burn tubes. It also means waiting a couple minutes for the firebox to get full of flames before airing down after a reload.
Gabe
thanks I did put the thermo in the same place reads usually around 200 -220 placed it on the stack hit about 450 didn't get over that not sure what this secondary burn is but guess I am doing okay plenty of heat coming out
Secondary burn is when you have flames shooting out of the holes of the burn tubes at the roof of the stove. Called 'secondary burn' because the gasses given off by the wood (smoke) are fed pre-heated air via the burn tubes. When hot enough, they light off like a gas stove.
Gabe
Gabe
My glass is not staying clean on the montpelier. What is the secret to getting it to burn hot? I put a therometer on the arch of the door and it rarely gets over 100 degrees. My wood has been cut for over a year, but just split most of it this fall. We just got the insert installed about a month ago. Trying to learn the correct way to keep it hot. Thanks.
Please supply some more info on your set up: how tall is the flue, do you have a liner/ blockoff plate etc. What type of wood are you burning?
Off the bat I'd think that your wood is still wet. My wood is a mix of pine/ oak/ locust/ maple that's been stacked since early spring. Some of it is pretty dry, but I know its not optimum. I'm trying to stay away from the stacks as long as I can, so I'm burning some pallet wood for now.
Our stoves are small, 1.5 cu', so we cant fill them full of 6" splits and expect any real heat out of them. None of my wood is larger than 4". Not only will this burn hotter, but will allow the wood to season faster.
Get the stove/ flue hot in the first place. 2 small splits in the bottom, then stack about 10 -12 pieces of kindling on top. Let that burn wide open for about 15 minutes until its almost down to coals. Add some more splits to that, let them char, then you can start cutting the air back. Try not to cut the air back too fast; the firebox should be wall to wall flames. Once the stove is hot, and the load fully caught, you should be able to reduce the primary air to 10 -20% open. Thats were most of us seem to cruise at.
Curious if your bricks are black as well. After a hot fire, the stove looks new inside.
Good luck. Gabe
Off the bat I'd think that your wood is still wet. My wood is a mix of pine/ oak/ locust/ maple that's been stacked since early spring. Some of it is pretty dry, but I know its not optimum. I'm trying to stay away from the stacks as long as I can, so I'm burning some pallet wood for now.
Our stoves are small, 1.5 cu', so we cant fill them full of 6" splits and expect any real heat out of them. None of my wood is larger than 4". Not only will this burn hotter, but will allow the wood to season faster.
Get the stove/ flue hot in the first place. 2 small splits in the bottom, then stack about 10 -12 pieces of kindling on top. Let that burn wide open for about 15 minutes until its almost down to coals. Add some more splits to that, let them char, then you can start cutting the air back. Try not to cut the air back too fast; the firebox should be wall to wall flames. Once the stove is hot, and the load fully caught, you should be able to reduce the primary air to 10 -20% open. Thats were most of us seem to cruise at.
Curious if your bricks are black as well. After a hot fire, the stove looks new inside.
Good luck. Gabe
We have a stainless steel liner, insulated, about 22 feet in length. No bottom blockoff plate, installer said he never uses them. Nice tight cap on top. I do not know the type of wood i am using. Brinks are completely white, except near the front around the door. We had a nice hot fire last night, what we consider hot, but our therometer on arch of door hardly got over 100 degrees.Fod01 said:
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