VC Defiant either 8" or 6" chimney

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snowtime

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Oct 31, 2007
523
northern BC
I am leaning toward the Defiant. I would like to use a 6" chimney but this stove can have 6" or 8".
Whats the best to make this stove work well or is there not much of a difference.
 
Buy the time you figure out their oval connector factoring the reduction of the area and the increased friction there is little difference Also note it is recommended for connection to an 8/8 clay flue reality is 8/8 clay flue is about 6.5 by 6.5" I use my encore with a 6" flue collar and it works very good. According to the manual, the only disclaimer is not being able to ues the open fire screen option
 
The Defiant will work fine on a 6" flue (assuming all other draft conditions are good). VC does not guarantee smoke-free open door burning (front doors fully open like a Franklin-style) unless you use an 8" flue. But many people have no problems on the 6" size. Bottom line, if you want least chance of problems go with 8". If you are not concerned with open door burns, or have optimal path for the chimney, 6" will save you some money.
 
Chimney will be 5' single wall straight up with 11' class A. I could add more if needed.
 
Yes I know I am bumping an old thread. I have been reading lots of old posts as I have Defiant and I am in the process of buying a new liner for my chimney. I would like to use an 8" liner but I am not sure it will fit with insulation. The book says I can use a 6" or 8". As stated earlier I just wouldn't be able to burn with the doors open with the 6". I don't care about burning with the doors open. I just don't want smoke back in the house when I reload. I was thinking of using a 7" liner. I could get a fully insulated 7" without too much trouble. My masonry chimney is an internal chimney and the liner would be 40' tall. I would have a tee at the bottom of the liner and a elbow above the stove. I do have a 4' run from thimble to the tee though. Should I have good draft? I know it's not an 8" flue but will the hight help me overcome the smallish liner?
 
I have a defiant with 8 inch pipe into a clay lined block chimney which is about 25 ft high. When it was first installed I was hoping to not have to have a liner installed because I heard of draft problems with uninsulated liners , but since installation, I've had no problems.
I am no expert but I would think with 40 feet of insulated chimney you don't need to worry about having good draft.
 
Prosecond said:
Yes I know I am bumping an old thread. I have been reading lots of old posts as I have Defiant and I am in the process of buying a new liner for my chimney. I would like to use an 8" liner but I am not sure it will fit with insulation. The book says I can use a 6" or 8". As stated earlier I just wouldn't be able to burn with the doors open with the 6". I don't care about burning with the doors open. I just don't want smoke back in the house when I reload. I was thinking of using a 7" liner. I could get a fully insulated 7" without too much trouble. My masonry chimney is an internal chimney and the liner would be 40' tall. I would have a tee at the bottom of the liner and a elbow above the stove. I do have a 4' run from thimble to the tee though. Should I have good draft? I know it's not an 8" flue but will the hight help me overcome the smallish liner?

My back-of-the envelope calculation supports Cal's intuition. In other words, yes.

If my calculation is correct, your 40' tall 7' diameter flue would draw like a 20' tall 8.3" diameter one.
Approximately. :)
 
Thanks for the replies. Is that calculation for real? I like the answer but would like to understand how you got it. Can you teach me?

My back-of-the envelope calculation supports Cal's intuition. In other words, yes.

If my calculation is correct, your 40' tall 7' diameter flue would draw like a 20' tall 8.3" diameter one.
Approximately. :)[/quote]
 
My back-of-the envelope calculation supports Cal's intuition. In other words, yes.

If my calculation is correct, your 40' tall 7' diameter flue would draw like a 20' tall 8.3" diameter one.
Approximately. :)

author="Prosecond" date="1293085420"]Thanks for the replies. Is that calculation for real? I like the answer but would like to understand how you got it. Can you teach me?

Yes, that calculation is for real, and is an approximation, and I believe is accurate enough to confirm our intuition--that a 40' tall 7' diameter flue would draw like a 20' tall 8.3" diameter one.

As for teaching you, sure, if you have the patience. I've been happily geeking around for an hour, checking my work, and trying to figure an easy way to explain. I'm going to post all this in a Wiki article, so others can use it. I'll blather on, and you can tell me if you find it useful.

I think some general understanding first might be helpful, for I find it aids intuition, which is very useful in understanding this sort of thing. So I'll do the general stuff in this post, and the equation next if you're still interested, lol.

The insight that allowed me to get a feel for how chimneys work is:

Chimneys are driven by gravity, and the weight of the air above them.

Air has weight, and the denser air is, the more a given volume weighs. The air in a chimney is hotter and therefore less dense and therefore weighs less than the air around it--so it wants to rise and float up. Just like a boat or hot air balloon is lighter than the volume it displaces, so it wants to float upward.

The key to getting a feel for this is to realize that the more the air above a given point weighs, the more it pushes down. So what holds it up? Air pressure! Air getting squished by gravity pushes back just like a compressed spring, and its pressure rises until it is exactly enough to support the weight on it. So the air pressure on the ground is exactly the amount required to hold up the weight of the entire column of air above it.

Less dense air? Less weight in that column of air rising up to space, less pressure required to hold it up, lower barometric pressure, and viola!, a low pressure system!

Here's a thought experiment that helps me to understand. Imagine yourself riding an elevator that goes all the way up into space. Remember, at each height in the elevator, the air pressure is exactly the amount required to support the column of air above you. So at ground level your barometric pressure gauge shows some starting value, and as you rise into space, it gradually lowers as the less and less air remaining above you weighs less and less, until finally you are in a vacuum, with no air above you, and no air pressure. (choke)

This understanding, that air pressure is determined by the weight of the air above you, and therefore decreases for every foot rise in height, is the central insight you need to understand chimneys.

With that insight in mind, take a look at this stuff I copied from Wikipedia, and included in another post.

First look at this illustration of the chimney effect--keeping in mind my long-winded (har) discussion of air pressure being determined by the weight of the air above it--as you look at the air-pressure gauges in the illustration:


The stack effect in chimneys: the gauges represent absolute air pressure and the airflow is indicated with light grey arrows. The gauge dials move clockwise with increasing pressure.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...imney_effect.svg/220px-Chimney_effect.svg.png

Now it's easy to understand why the pressure gauges read higher at ground level--they have a greater weight of air above them. And why the gauge in the chimney reads lower than one at the same height outside the chimney--the hot air in the chimney is less dense, so the column of air inside the chimney weighs less than the air outside the chimney, so it pushes down with less pressure, and less pressure is required to hold it up!!!

The difference in pressure between the air inside the chimney bottom and the outside air next to it is what creates draft. Gravity is the force that drives draft, by pushing down harder on the air outside of the chimney, and pushing it inside.

Now chimney performance is easy to understand:

Why does a hotter chimney produce more draft? Bigger weight difference from less air in the chimney.

Why is draft worse on a warm day? Less temperature difference between stove and outside means less weight difference between inside and outside the chimney.

Why does a higher chimney draft better? a taller column of light air creates a bigger difference in weight relative to a column of outside air the same height.

Why does a vertical run of pipe immediately after a stove start drawing faster than an horizontal pipe? The taller a column of hot air, the greater its weight difference relative to a column of unheated air the same height. So a chimney creates draft only when rising sections are hot, and a hot horizontal section creates no draft.

Why does it take a while for draft to start? The chimney is only lighter by the amount of hot air in it--it won't draft best until it is filled with hot air.

Why do downdrafts mess up draft so much? The backflow fills the chimney with cold air and chills it, instantly killing draft until the chimney can refill itself with warm air.

Why do uninsulated, oversized and/or masonry chimneys perform worse? Now you can answer that one yourself.

I've run out this post's character allotment, so the calculation part will have to wait, if you're still interested.

If this general explanation makes sense, then understanding and using the equation should be fairly easy. %-P
 
Oh what the heck, I'll go for the equation now. This may be in the Wiki article too.

First I'll show you an equation, then I'll mention some online tools, and finally show a relatively easy way to use the equation to compare one chimney's performance with another..

Again from Wikipedia, this time for an equation for chimney draft:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chimney#Chimney_draught_or_draft

As a "first guess" approximation, the following equation can be used to estimate the natural draught/draft flow rate by assuming that the molecular mass (i.e., molecular weight) of the flue gas and the external air are equal and that the frictional pressure and heat losses are negligible:

Q = C A(sqrt(2gH(Ti - Te)/Te))

where:
Q = chimney draught/draft flow rate, m³/s
A = cross-sectional area of chimney, m² (assuming it has a constant cross-section)
C = discharge coefficient (usually taken to be from 0.65 to 0.70)
g = gravitational acceleration, 9.807 m/s²
H = height of chimney, m
Ti = average temperature inside the chimney, K
Te = external air temperature, K.

Note that even this fairly ugly equation leaves out heat loss and frictional loss (drag in small pipes at high flow rates), which are often important. And it's also in metric units. But it's very useful for comparing various chimneys, and you can hammer out the calculation on your Windows calculator, Excel, etc.

Or you can use this online calculator, which takes a little pondering and converting from metric, but it's the best I've found--please tell me if anyone sees a better one:

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/natural-draught-ventilation-d_122.html

Simple Comparison Equation


Now I'll boil down the equation above into a simpler form for computing equivalent chimneys of different diameters or heights, which is the "back of the envelope calculation" I did for you.

The boiled-down version is

Db = Da * sqrt( sqrt( Ha/Hb ) )

and, equivalently

Hb = Ha * sqr( sqr( Da/Db)

Where:

Ha = Height of Chimney a

Hb = Height of Chimney b

Da = Diameter of Chimney a

Db = Diameter of Chimney b

sqrt(x) = the Square Root of x

sqr(x) = x Squared
This allows you to find what diameter and height chimney perform similarly to a comparison chimney.

Let's take your case:

Ha = 40'

Hb = 20'

Da = 7"

Db = ?

Db = Da * sqrt( sqrt( Ha/Hb ) ) = 7" * sqrt( sqrt( 40'/20') = 7" * sqrt( sqrt( 2 ) = (hitting the "square root" button on my calculator twice)

7" * 1.19 = ... wait for it... 8.3"

So, a 40'-7" chimney performs like a 20'-8.3" chimney, neglecting the frictional losses that tend to choke back the narrower chimney at high flow/burn rates, and the heat losses that tend to stall the larger chimney at low flow/burn rates. One has to keep that in mind, and decide if those effects are significant for each case. In your case I'd say not in the least.

I hope that helps--I tried to simplify it to a useful form.

Comments? :)

Oh, and Happy Holidays!!!
 
RevGeorge = Mr. Wizard the Science teacher who used to be on TV years ago!

Great description / (relatively) easily understood computations! Thanks for sharing this!

Shari
 
Shari said:
RevGeorge = Mr. Wizard the Science teacher who used to be on TV years ago!

Great description / (relatively) easily understood computations! Thanks for sharing this!

Shari

Thanks Shari, you're very kind!

Obviously I enjoy doing it, lol.
 
Prosecond said:
Thanks so much for the information!!!! I'll read it a couple of times and rumenate over it.

You're very welcome, PS. I enjoy doing it for its own sake, and to exercise my understanding.

I hope the takeaways are intuition about stove draft--which could help in design/troubleshooting/operation--and an easy equation to answer the question "How will my X' tall, Y" diameter flue operate compared to the standard chimney spec for this particular stove." When using that equation, one needs to remember to subtract at least 1' from the effective height for every 90 degree turn, and remember that narrow flues may restrict flow at high flow rates and wide flues may stall at low flow rates, especially if they are eternal/poorly insulated.

HTH, and please feel free to ask any questions. Thanks for asking! :)
 
Thanks for the computations.

Just wondering if these calculations assume a straight chimney- in that, my chimney has an offset approximately 10 feet up from the bottom. Just curious if I can still use these calculations or if the offset needs to be taken into account.
 
Remkel said:
Thanks for the computations.

Just wondering if these calculations assume a straight chimney- in that, my chimney has an offset approximately 10 feet up from the bottom. Just curious if I can still use these calculations or if the offset needs to be taken into account.

My pleasure! :)

Yes, that equation assumes a straight chimney. The rule of thumb is to subtract 1' from your effective chimney height for every 90 degree bend, but that seems a little optimistic to me--I'd subtract 2' just to be safe.
 
Thanks for the clarification. My chimney has a 45 degree offset (one chimney, three flues) so I will take this into account.

Stay warm.
 
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