KodiakII said:I would use regular (non synthetic) oil until it is broken in (if it isn't already).
bogydave said:Fill to the full mark on the dip stick, when on a level spot, run it a few minutes.
Check the oil level.
If it needs some add some. Too full , dump some out.
Check oil every time before you use/start it.
Like you didn't know already. (thinking with your "dipstick" ?)
Your just bragging about getting a new (to you) Troy-27Ton. LOL :lol:
Get it for a good price?
mecreature said:She is going to love a nice fresh drink.
I bet she will even look better.
Gonna purr now.
Highbeam said:I would hope it holds more than a half quart. That's like pouring a beer in there. Hardly anything.
TreePointer said:According to a manual I have for a 160cc Honga GC engine, that sounds like the right volume. The specs for mine list 0.61 qt. as capacity.
smokinjay said:TreePointer said:According to a manual I have for a 160cc Honga GC engine, that sounds like the right volume. The specs for mine list 0.61 qt. as capacity.
Thanks treepointer...I will look at the bottle see how close to that I am, but sure lets me know I am in the right ball park. I am like highbeem seems it should take a lot more to fill one.
Amsoil makes an oil package just for small engines. My last 3hp briggs motor was 20 years old and saw over 200 cords of wood, running Amsoil. And was still running when I sold the Supersplit to a friend who had a firewood business. Change it once a year and forget it. I got to see the proof in the pudding over 20 years. Just my opinion.smokinjay said:mecreature said:She is going to love a nice fresh drink.
I bet she will even look better.
Gonna purr now.
lol Just hope to get another good 4 years out of it. I work that thing hard.
xclimber said:Amsoil makes an oil package just for small engines. My last 3hp briggs motor was 20 years old and saw over 200 cords of wood, running Amsoil. And was still running when I sold the Supersplit to a friend who had a firewood business. Change it once a year and forget it. I got to see the proof in the pudding over 20 years. Just my opinion.smokinjay said:mecreature said:She is going to love a nice fresh drink.
I bet she will even look better.
Gonna purr now.
lol Just hope to get another good 4 years out of it. I work that thing hard.
That's still good. Putting in good oil will show you the difference done the road. Especially in a non pressurized oil system, an oil slinger just throws the oil up .smokinjay said:xclimber said:Amsoil makes an oil package just for small engines. My last 3hp briggs motor was 20 years old and saw over 200 cords of wood, running Amsoil. And was still running when I sold the Supersplit to a friend who had a firewood business. Change it once a year and forget it. I got to see the proof in the pudding over 20 years. Just my opinion.smokinjay said:mecreature said:She is going to love a nice fresh drink.
I bet she will even look better.
Gonna purr now.
lol Just hope to get another good 4 years out of it. I work that thing hard.
I have well over 100 on this one. I look for Amsoil local but could not find it so I went with the royal purple.
Found the cross reff oil filter is a napa 1259
OK, good luck.smokinjay said:Thats what I was thinking best I could get around here. The filter for another cross referance is a Purolator H32010
or napa 1259
jlove1974 said:I think you are overthinking it. Change the oil to synthetic if you must, but in reality it's a single cylinder pushing low RPMs.......any modern oil will do for 50hr intervals. Synthetic costs more than decent dino oil changed
more often. On a carbureted single, you'll probably get more fuel in the oil than you would an EFI car, not sure I would just change it once in spring and once in fall for good measure.
K&N filters are hype-marketing at it's finest. I prefer to use paper filters instead of oily cotton rags inside a wire mesh but to each his own. I am not sure they make it for this application.
To the guy that says non-pressurized: Not any OHV honda engine that I know of. They all have pressurized systems except on the cheapest 3.5hp (Ooop 5.0 TORQUE rated) engines nowadays.
Oil slingers went away with floppy disks and cassette tapes.
Also if IRC, Honda stamps the capacity of their engines on the block somewhere near the filler cap. I use a measuring cup called a ratio-rite to measure out exactly
that amount and it makes it easy. I think I got that ratio-rite thing at a motorcycle shop somewhere for $5.00. Works good for making pre-mix, and fork oil measurements
Pressurized or not, I was simply trying to tell Jay to use the best oil he can, that's all nothing technical. Not mentioning an oil filter I guess I assumed it to be non pressurized.jlove1974 said:I think you are overthinking it. Change the oil to synthetic if you must, but in reality it's a single cylinder pushing low RPMs.......any modern oil will do for 50hr intervals. Synthetic costs more than decent dino oil changed
more often. On a carbureted single, you'll probably get more fuel in the oil than you would an EFI car, not sure I would just change it once in spring and once in fall for good measure.
K&N filters are hype-marketing at it's finest. I prefer to use paper filters instead of oily cotton rags inside a wire mesh but to each his own. I am not sure they make it for this application.
To the guy that says non-pressurized: Not any OHV honda engine that I know of. They all have pressurized systems except on the cheapest 3.5hp (Ooop 5.0 TORQUE rated) engines nowadays.
Oil slingers went away with floppy disks and cassette tapes.
Also if IRC, Honda stamps the capacity of their engines on the block somewhere near the filler cap. I use a measuring cup called a ratio-rite to measure out exactly
that amount and it makes it easy. I think I got that ratio-rite thing at a motorcycle shop somewhere for $5.00. Works good for making pre-mix, and fork oil measurements
xclimber said:Pressurized or not, I was simply trying to tell Jay to use the best oil he can, that's all nothing technical. Not mentioning an oil filter I guess I assumed it to be non pressurized.jlove1974 said:I think you are overthinking it. Change the oil to synthetic if you must, but in reality it's a single cylinder pushing low RPMs.......any modern oil will do for 50hr intervals. Synthetic costs more than decent dino oil changed
more often. On a carbureted single, you'll probably get more fuel in the oil than you would an EFI car, not sure I would just change it once in spring and once in fall for good measure.
K&N filters are hype-marketing at it's finest. I prefer to use paper filters instead of oily cotton rags inside a wire mesh but to each his own. I am not sure they make it for this application.
To the guy that says non-pressurized: Not any OHV honda engine that I know of. They all have pressurized systems except on the cheapest 3.5hp (Ooop 5.0 TORQUE rated) engines nowadays.
Oil slingers went away with floppy disks and cassette tapes.
Also if IRC, Honda stamps the capacity of their engines on the block somewhere near the filler cap. I use a measuring cup called a ratio-rite to measure out exactly
that amount and it makes it easy. I think I got that ratio-rite thing at a motorcycle shop somewhere for $5.00. Works good for making pre-mix, and fork oil measurements
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