Too many choices! I need help!

[joshuaboston]

To address this many make or install a "convection deck". google wood stove convection deck.

Don't really understand what a convection deck is and does.

This is what I found...
deck creates a heat trap for more hot air to be produced by the fan. It also allows a two level warming surface on the top of the stove.

And it seems specific to the stove.

 

[georgepds]

"There are not many stoves I am aware of that have rear controls."

The Woodstock progress hybrid has the air control on the back corner

The cat bypass is front center top

 

[Ashful]

Hard to tell from the photo, but that looks like a steel firebox to me.

Exactly where my mind was going, Hogz. I’d probably avoid the Jotul Oslo, which is just about the worst stove you could buy, if you’re putting it into a masonry fireplace. The masonry will suck up almost all the heat that stove produces, I know because I did this for several years with my small fleet of Jotuls.

If that’s a masonry fireplace, and if it is on an exterior wall, then you want a stove that’s going to radiate as little as possible off the sides and back. This completely rules out any Jotul cast stove (except the cast over steel designs), and it also rules out soapstone. In fact, it actually favors in an insert, or a very convective stove (eg. BK 30 or PE Alderfea). I know Jotul has some cast over steel designs (F45/50/55?), but I do not know if they’re completely clad on sides and rear. Can someone confirm?

If that’s a steel firebox, then the issue is much reduced, as the steel has less capacity for soaking up radiated heat than stone. Also, if the fireplace is in the center of the house, rather than on an exterior wall, the problem is reduced.

 

[ColdNorCal]

Don't really understand what a convection deck is and does.

This is what I found...
deck creates a heat trap for more hot air to be produced by the fan. It also allows a two level warming surface on the top of the stove.

And it seems specific to the stove.

In simple form, its just a metal plate that sits above the stove top and allows the hot air that rises off the stove top to be blown forward, out of the fireplace in my case, and into the room.

I agree with what some others said, Their are many solutions and choices. Just sharing with you another option.

Here is a good example of a diy convection deck:

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/your-nc30-needs-a-convection-deck.139491/

Wood Stoves in existing fireplaces. :

https://www.hearth.com/talk/media/wood-stove-in-fireplace.2199/

(broken link removed)

 

[Hogwildz]

If you do a block off plate at the lintel level, you won't need a convection deck, as the block off plate will do the same thing.

 

[BKVP]

OP, I spent my youth in Glendora and spent lots of time on Baldy. I completed in the time trials bike races each year. If you drop over into Hesperia, there are both a Blaze King dealer and a Travis dealer...just a few miles from each other. Just grab a double double at the exit!

 

[jhjove]

To the OP; you said your location is Mt. Baldy, CA
How often do you lose power in your area?
Do you have a backup generator?

I ask because if you require electric fans for convection/heat circulation you may want to add this into
your shopping plans....especially if wood is your primary heat source.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Hi all,

Last winter my little boy and I slept in our mummy bags in bed, because my winter comforter couldn't keep us warm in a bedroom that was 40+ degrees. I decided to put in a fireplace insert only to realize there are so many make and models and so much to consider besides the size and price point! I would love some guidance! Here's some information regarding my house:

We live in a 2-story cabin just over 1900 sq ft in Mt Baldy, CA. I don't think it's particularly well insulated. It has large single pane windows and sliding doors all over. I currently have a rather large fireplace (45" Wide x 29" Tall x 27" deep I think) that just eats all my wood and not offer very much heat. It took a whole weekend of constantly feeding a huge fire to get the house to be nice to toasty, which ended up being very costly and a whole lot of work. When I started looking inserts, I found a few comments on here that said freestanding wood stoves actually produce more heat using less wood. I also read that a blower can be very noisy on an insert. So, I also looked at freestanding units, but then realize they need a certain clearance on top and the sides?? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Best,

Sean

Hi Sean- we had a similar situation with our place. After much deliberation, I decided on a freestander, and pulled the trigger after an extensive search for a rear exit flue stove.

I'll make a long story short. The negatives of the freestander added up, despite my strong desire to use it, and I had a change of heart, we ended up with an insert. While the experience was expensive (we have the freestander sitting unused in the barn), an insert in that lovely fireplace of yours would be a good, practical solution.

BTW, the deal breaker for the freestander, in the end, was the dimensions of the room, including both ceiling height and width of the space. Those darn clearances!

Couple more things to consider- upgrading your windows and insulation. Then, whatever you choose regarding the stove, you win!

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Yeah, I bet a ton can be done for cheap with insulation and air sealing. I think windows would be further down on the list, at least for me.

 

[touchthewindrider]

Exactly where my mind was going, Hogz. I’d probably avoid the Jotul Oslo, which is just about the worst stove you could buy, if you’re putting it into a masonry fireplace. The masonry will suck up almost all the heat that stove produces, I know because I did this for several years with my small fleet of Jotuls.

If that’s a masonry fireplace, and if it is on an exterior wall, then you want a stove that’s going to radiate as little as possible off the sides and back. This completely rules out any Jotul cast stove (except the cast over steel designs), and it also rules out soapstone. In fact, it actually favors in an insert, or a very convective stove (eg. BK 30 or PE Alderfea). I know Jotul has some cast over steel designs (F45/50/55?), but I do not know if they’re completely clad on sides and rear. Can someone confirm?

If that’s a steel firebox, then the issue is much reduced, as the steel has less capacity for soaking up radiated heat than stone. Also, if the fireplace is in the center of the house, rather than on an exterior wall, the problem is reduced.

I'm in a similar situation as Sean. Fireplaces appear to be pretty close in dimensions, but mine does have a steel liner backing, and sides, in the fireplace, and is in the center of the house...tall ceilings. I've run a freestanding VC Dutchwest Sequoa (?) for several years now. Besides the fact the stove is really lousy, althought it is a CAT, which I like, I am ready to switch to something more efficient, with longer burn times. I admit, I did have to 'modify" the stove legs to be able to slide it part ways, into the fireplace opening. Stove sticks out 15" from the opening of the fireplace with 7" to the lip of the raised hearth. The VC is rear vented, so that made it easy to T pipe it from the stove to the flue liner. The VC is a side loader, which I like,, but am interested in a N/S loader. i believe that allows for longer burn time. But, I may be wrong. I have considered the Jotul, The Woodstock Ideal Steel or the Progress Hybrid....just not sold on any of them yet...and still open to suggestions. Bottomline for Sean, when the power goes out, I'm warm. I'm concerned an insert would not provide the same.

 

[Ashful]

Remember, insert fans draw pretty minimal current. This could be managed with a very small generator, or a UPS, or any combination thereof.

Also, as Hogz quite emphatically pointed out to us recently, some inserts do just fine without the fans running.

 

[SeanT]

Exactly where my mind was going, Hogz. I’d probably avoid the Jotul Oslo, which is just about the worst stove you could buy, if you’re putting it into a masonry fireplace. The masonry will suck up almost all the heat that stove produces, I know because I did this for several years with my small fleet of Jotuls.

If that’s a masonry fireplace, and if it is on an exterior wall, then you want a stove that’s going to radiate as little as possible off the sides and back. This completely rules out any Jotul cast stove (except the cast over steel designs), and it also rules out soapstone. In fact, it actually favors in an insert, or a very convective stove (eg. BK 30 or PE Alderfea). I know Jotul has some cast over steel designs (F45/50/55?), but I do not know if they’re completely clad on sides and rear. Can someone confirm?

If that’s a steel firebox, then the issue is much reduced, as the steel has less capacity for soaking up radiated heat than stone. Also, if the fireplace is in the center of the house, rather than on an exterior wall, the problem is reduced.

Hello! Yes, it is a steel firebox. My friend keeps calling it a heatilator. There are two fans that blow hot air out of two vents just above the mantel on either side. There is another room behind the fireplace, so it's not on an exterior wall. I have gotten the whole house warmed up to above 80 during a cold February weekend, but it took a TON of wood.

 

[sutphenj]

Exactly where my mind was going, Hogz. I’d probably avoid the Jotul Oslo, which is just about the worst stove you could buy, if you’re putting it into a masonry fireplace. The masonry will suck up almost all the heat that stove produces, I know because I did this for several years with my small fleet of Jotuls.

If that’s a masonry fireplace, and if it is on an exterior wall, then you want a stove that’s going to radiate as little as possible off the sides and back. This completely rules out any Jotul cast stove (except the cast over steel designs), and it also rules out soapstone. In fact, it actually favors in an insert, or a very convective stove (eg. BK 30 or PE Alderfea). I know Jotul has some cast over steel designs (F45/50/55?), but I do not know if they’re completely clad on sides and rear. Can someone confirm?

If that’s a steel firebox, then the issue is much reduced, as the steel has less capacity for soaking up radiated heat than stone. Also, if the fireplace is in the center of the house, rather than on an exterior wall, the problem is reduced.

The f55 is not completely cast clad. Front is steel with cast door, sides are pretty much cast covered steel and the rear has steel plate that does a good job convecting. I think the PE is more of a full wrap. The top is full cast but not clad over steel (sits on a gasket).

 

[SeanT]

OP, I spent my youth in Glendora and spent lots of time on Baldy. I completed in the time trials bike races each year. If you drop over into Hesperia, there are both a Blaze King dealer and a Travis dealer...just a few miles from each other. Just grab a double double at the exit!

I will look into Blaze King and Travis. I'm a newbie...haven't heard of these.

 

[SeanT]

To the OP; you said your location is Mt. Baldy, CA
How often do you lose power in your area?
Do you have a backup generator?

I ask because if you require electric fans for convection/heat circulation you may want to add this into
your shopping plans....especially if wood is your primary heat source.

Hello! We lose power more often than down the hill especially with the new preventive measure put in place by the utility company to shut down power during high winds. I am lucky to have a generator put in by the previous owner!

 

[SeanT]

Hi Sean- we had a similar situation with our place. After much deliberation, I decided on a freestander, and pulled the trigger after an extensive search for a rear exit flue stove.

I'll make a long story short. The negatives of the freestander added up, despite my strong desire to use it, and I had a change of heart, we ended up with an insert. While the experience was expensive (we have the freestander sitting unused in the barn), an insert in that lovely fireplace of yours would be a good, practical solution.

BTW, the deal breaker for the freestander, in the end, was the dimensions of the room, including both ceiling height and width of the space. Those darn clearances!

Couple more things to consider- upgrading your windows and insulation. Then, whatever you choose regarding the stove, you win!

Thank you! I have been doing much research as well, and noticed the darn clearances being problematic! I'm now looking for an insert!

 

[SeanT]

The f55 is not completely cast clad. Front is steel with cast door, sides are pretty much cast covered steel and the rear has steel plate that does a good job convecting. I think the PE is more of a full wrap. The top is full cast but not clad over steel (sits on a gasket).

Oh boy...this post might as well be in French. I have question marks all over my head! haha

 

[adrianrog]

For comparison, I spent around$4000 last year for a Buck insert and chimney liner, installed. Would you be willing to spend in that neighborhood?

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Oh boy...this post might as well be in French. I have question marks all over my head! haha

"The f55 is not completely cast clad. Front is steel with cast door, sides are pretty much cast covered steel and the rear has steel plate that does a good job convecting. I think the PE is more of a full wrap. The top is full cast but not clad over steel (sits on a gasket)."


Stoves and inserts tend to be made of 3 materials:

Stone
Cast iron
And steel plate

There is some overlap, in most steel stoves have cast iron doors, and there are a few companies that take a steel stove, and put a cast iron surround on it

Which style one chooses can be determined by aesthetic qualities, the type of heat you'd like (blast furnace radiant to gentle warmth and convection), and price point.

 

[Ashful]

Oh boy...this post might as well be in French. I have question marks all over my head! haha

"cast clad" refers to stoves that typically have a welded steel firebox and then clad with cast iron plates. This is an excellent way to build a stove, for more reasons than I can list here, but three of the most oft-cited reasons are:

1. Welded steel fireboxes are super durable. There may not be a more practical way to build a firebox.

2. Cast iron is pretty, and is the picture many people have in their mind as to what a stove should look like.

3. Hanging iron plates on a steel box creates a double-walled design, which softens the searing heat from the firebox, and provides a more convective design.

 

[begreen]

4. The mass of the cast iron jacket absorbs heat which is then slowly released as the fire dies down. This helps significantly reduce room temperature swing.

 

[Zack R]

If you can fit a Jotul F45 it would be worth checking one out. I prefer the quiet of freestanding stoves and the F45 pumps out a lot of heat for its size. In fact this morning it was a balmy 9°F outside so I loaded it up with pine and throttled it up to a high cruising range of 600°F. Nice and toasty!

 

[SeanT]

OP, I spent my youth in Glendora and spent lots of time on Baldy. I completed in the time trials bike races each year. If you drop over into Hesperia, there are both a Blaze King dealer and a Travis dealer...just a few miles from each other. Just grab a double double at the exit!

Thanks for letting me know about the BK dealer! I'm going to check them out. I survived another winter with my fireplace and used up a crap ton of wood. A really harsh winter. Getting either an insert or stove before next winter for sure!

 

[ratsrepus]

keep us posted on your choice, go with the stove if at all possible

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Make sure you get enough wood put up!