Most dealers are not stove enthusiasts like us and have never heard of Hearth.com. They know that the vast majority of stoves will run fine and safely without an OAK and either don't know or don't care about the other benefits of an OAK.
This is the wrong forum for that (just kidding). I expect that if the stove has a port that can be attached to tubing, an OAK can be added.Is it possible to add an OAK on a CFM-FM240007 wood stove. Today it has been cold in Pittsburgh and I could feel cold air drafts in the house.
I was just going to say, why is it that nearly every post says the dealer said an OAK is not worth it? I got one because by code it had to be done. Is it too much work for the money you get paid or what? There has to be some explanation because when you read this forum almost every poster says the dealer said I didn't need it.
So a couple of stories to illustrate the point... My father was a plumber, and was 54 years old when I was born, retiring at 62. So I had the benefit of spending lots of my childhood with him, during which he sometimes volunteered his time on worthwhile building repair projects, often helping people recommended by our church as needing help. He was also an incredible craftsman. I remember counless times when someone in the trades would get stuck on something and stop by our house for a lesson and consult from my father, who was always a fan of learning about your trade / craft. So even after he retired he often knew more about buildings and new materials than those still working, because he had a passion for his craft.It's funny, I have never heard anybody say that their dealer recommended installing an OAK.
At the risk of being reprimanded by the moderators, I think that you are unrealistically generous to the people in the building trade.So a couple of stories to illustrate the point... My father was a plumber, and was 54 years old when I was born, retiring at 62. So I had the benefit of spending lots of my childhood with him, during which he sometimes volunteered his time on worthwhile building repair projects, often helping people recommended by our church as needing help. He was also an incredible craftsman. I remember counless times when someone in the trades would get stuck on something and stop by our house for a lesson and consult from my father, who was always a fan of learning about your trade / craft. So even after he retired he often knew more about buildings and new materials than those still working, because he had a passion for his craft.
Years later my wife and I owned a home repair company that did some light remodeling. I was more of an investor and manager than a worker, but having grown up in the trades and having rebuilt several homes myself I've always kept somewhat up to date on building science and materials. So I was always amazed at just how little most "contractors" - people who worked in the trades every day, earning their living - knew about new materials, code changes, etc. They just hadn't bothered to learn. And when offered the opportunity, most just "couldn't find the time" for a class, or seminar, or certification even when it was offered for free and might have earned them more money over time. They essentially had to be forced to learn. In fact, our frustration with finding high quality craftsmen who had a passion for their trade/craft contributed to our decision to eventually sell the company. It was just increasingly difficult to find these folks, and we had other ways to spend our time and earn a living.
My point is that sadly, most people don't work in a field for which they have a true passion. They know enough not to cause an easily identified problem, but not enough to optimize the situation for their customers. My personal exprience has been that stove dealers are the same way. There are great ones, but they are rare. Most know less about building science and sometimes their own products than a passionate amateur, which is the foundation of this board. So when one does find a truly great dealer: Strike up a relationship, pay their higher fees for service, and be glad you're able to do so. Otherwise, LEARN to protect yourself and optimize your situation.
Sorry I could not find any port to attach anything. So I guess the answer is no for me. Darn..............
No there is no "Pellet Stove for Dummies" but I may refer you to google eBooks "Principles of Home Inspection & Wood Heating" by Carson Duntop Page117 Chapter 6 Wood Stove Section 6.9 Pellet stoves. Unfortunately the web preview does not show all the pages!
http://books.google.com/books?id=JFX3P-XuNagC&printsec=frontcover&dq=Principles of Home Inspection & Wood Heating&hl=en&sa=X&ei=8UK6UsbgK-ezsQS6yID4Bw&ved=0CEgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=Principles of Home Inspection & Wood Heating&f=false
See pellet stove diagram below from eBook link above! Enjoy
Here is a good book too!
Wood Pellet Heating Systems: The Earthscan Expert Handbook on Planning ...
http://books.google.com/books?id=bdPKLH-QCWEC&pg=PT32&dq=pellet stoves&hl=en&sa=X&ei=v-u6UoD-GO2_sQTM1oDoCA&ved=0CEgQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=pellet stoves&f=false
Click pic to Enlarge:
Just placed the order...we are getting the OAK. Thanks for the advice...it's great to hear real world examples of why we want the OAK to wrap my brain around everythingI have two stoves. One has an OAK, and the other was installed while I was out of town, and I foolishly allowed it to be installed without one (a dealer recommendation there, as well, which I can tell you often means little). Both stoves burn well. But the one without an OAK creates drafts near the floor (none with the OAK stove) and when we run the non-OAK stove the humidity in the house plummets (western CT probably has far greater problems with dry indoor air in cold weather than dampness).
I still use that non-OAK stove, but this is the LAST season without nm OAK on it (this is also the first!). I may even address that this season, depending on weather. After learning more and experiencing it first-hand, I've become an OAK-zealot. Take it from someone who has direct experience with both and avoid a mistake you will regret (I sure do). You DEFINITELY want an OAK.
Some of them likely have that and more.
To the OP,
Sure looks to me like a fairly straight forward setup does your dealer actually have copies of those pictures to go by?
Pictures are worth many thousands of words and the reason we like them on this forum.
Don't try to over analyze things, if you are not going to do your own service work there is only one question you need to get answered and then you can take it from there.
That question is how reliable are the dealers in your area and you need to talk to their customers to find that out. You can get the worlds best stove but if the dealer isn't reliable you have purchased a boat anchor.
Enjoy! Great way to provide comfort over a surprisingly large area, and a purchase I think you'll value for many years. And we look forward to your contributions here as you move out of "newbie" stage.Just placed the order...we are getting the OAK. Thanks for the advice...it's great to hear real world examples of why we want the OAK to wrap my brain around everything
Enjoy! Great way to provide comfort over a surprisingly large area, and a purchase I think you'll value for many years. And we look forward to your contributions here as you move out of "newbie" stage.
Finally decided on the p61a. The dealer does not recommend the OAK. Seems like most on this forum do.
I am planning on getting it...unless I hear otherwise...any thoughts?
We have an old house (original from 1890s, additions in 1980s). Getting whole house air sealing and new insulation next month.
Any thoughts?
Thanks!!
Meg
Newbie( former lurker)
I have been researching this too. Found it interesting that Canada had laws requiring OAK but removed requirements when they did further research.
I do not see a major change in my TL200 fire when I open near by window, nor am I having moisture problems inside house. So for now have not installed OAK.
Thank to forum for help with stove issues
How do I start a new thread?? Haven't found anything except replies. Sorry
Newbie( former lurker)
I have been researching this too. Found it interesting that Canada had laws requiring OAK but removed requirements when they did further research...
How do I start a new thread?? Haven't found anything except replies. Sorry
From the forum page near the top right hand side there is a post new thread button.
PLake Girlwood heat.org1615060 said:What laws were changed in Canada? When? Sites?
For new thread go to main page of the pellet mill and near the top will see "post new thread" button.
Welcome to the forum
I have only done a cursory read of this document
http://www.woodheat.org/outdoor-combustion-air-in-the-canadian-national-building-code.html
It appears to apply to fireplaces not air tight stoves, either wood burning or pellet.
The reasoning for abandoning the requirement was that a fireplace will pull air from wherever it wants, because it is not sealed. A pellet stove is sealed and the rule never applied to it in the first place and the reason for abandoning the rule also does not apply.
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