I'll have to think about fans, pros vs. cons, when the fans are off, would they impede airflow? Thinking that way. I would be more reliant on the fans? Then more noise?
Thoughts on installing new wood stove in basement for heating a ranch home.
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Since your existing propane boiler is in the basement, and you may have other exhausting appliances such as a dryer, possibly bathroom exhaust fan, etc… combustion air for a stove may be necessary with a basement install.
Anything with a mechanical blower, or vented appliance removes air from that level. All wood stoves work on the principal of having atmospheric air pressure available at the stove intake, so as the hot exhaust gases rise up the chimney, atmospheric air pressure PUSHES into the stove feeding the fire.
This is why we need to know the location of your install. Elevation and outdoor temperature are some main factors that affect how well the chimney makes the stove work. Areas and newer homes with radon exhaust blowers are creating more issues reducing air pressure in basements. By decreasing the available atmospheric air pressure in the basement, stove operation can be problematic, even reversing the draft using the chimney as an intake. So many other factors are needed. Too much rising hot air from the stove can cause stack effect, which is the house itself allowing warm air to rise away from the stove competing with the chimney, reducing draft.
Stoves with their own outside air intake resolve a lot of problems associated with basement installs. What may work in northern climates may not work in warmer areas. The brand and model of stove makes a huge difference since some breathe easier than others and are more favorable for your type installation.
Is the boiler in its own utility room with an outside air intake?
Finally, if you don’t have a good supply of wood already cut, split, and drying, you are going to have issues burning it. Do you have acreage and a good supply of wood? Purchasing “seasoned” wood is not dry enough to burn. Get a moisture meter and have fuel ready a year in advance to avoid failure with a new stove.
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Love My Stove in the Basement, You Just Need a Big Stove For That Much House., Not Sure Any Woodstove is Capable of Heating all 3200 sq ft
With a good setup where convection is easy, it can work fine, but some homes don't lend themselves well to this. This could be due to stove location, stairwell location, upstairs floorplan, uninsulated basement, inadequate convection outlets, no return, basement partitions, etc.
tabner
Feeling the Heat
Unless one has a walkout basement, and the stove is up against the wall on the "walkout" side, how would one go about installing an air intake for the stove? I would love to have one, but since my stove is in my basement and centrally located, and you can't terminate the air intake above the stove, i have no way to run it. Even if you were up against the walkout side of your basement, there is almost always a cement stem wall that comes up a foot or so, which you'd have to drill through 12" of concrete, 3" dia hole? Maybe i'm just thinking of our North East foundations.
Good point about the dryer. I installed one of those exhaust optional flappers on my dryer exhaust - in the winter I flip it over and vent the dryer back into the house - extra heat in the house, adds humidity to the house (between woodstove and heat pump water heater it's very dry in winter), and it means running the dryer has neutral effect on air pressure in the basement.
With regard more generally to heating from the basement. I have about 1700 square feet, between 2.5 floors, heating from the basement, the small finished basement stove room averages around 85 to 90 and the second floor averages around 65 to 75. I wish i could get the second floor a little more toasty, but ultimately it does work for me. Mostly offsetting my heating bills which was main goal. I do use the inline duct fan pointing down, feel free to message me if you want pics or specifics on how i set that up / what model fan. @Riverbanks
You have 12" concrete walls, sweet, common thickness is 8" .Drilling a hole is no big deal, every plumber and electrician in my area, at least, has a core drill with many size bits. The fan set up for me is on the back burner, thanks for the help. It ain't broke so don't fix it sorta thinking, lol
tabner
Feeling the Heat
They may be 8”, I’m not sure.
I guess the height of the OAK may be the bigger problem. I think the basement slabs are almost always at least a foot below exterior grade. I just can’t imagine there are a lot of basements which would allow for an OAK. I was hoping someone would have some ideas I hadn’t thought of, I’d like one 😂
I do know that any hole in wood/concrete around here has to be 18" up from the outside grade. Whether it be intake or exhaust, this way snow can't block it
I have a walkout and ran mine across the end wall to get to where I could go through on the walkout portion. You can run one up if it isn't directly connected
I can run one up the side of the stove? And turn 90 into floor joists and out?I do have more than 18" going out the rim joist
So. no chance of backdraft? I'll start a parts list for mine, I thought about that a few years ago, 2" electric conduit came to mind?
Back draft can still be driven by the chimney, but no chance of smoke in the oak. It's like having a window cracked..
I'll do it, I mean, my system works just fine, but, maybe my kitchen door might not be as drafty at the threshold seal
tabner
Feeling the Heat
I thought of going this route too. I think I saw some Canadian stoves on here where the OAK is indirectly connected via the pedestal or something. But I’d be worried the OAK would just be cold air blasting into the stove room if it was a disconnected pipe sitting there. Maybe some type of damper or valve so it would only draw in outside air if there was some negative pressure in the room?
Down side to everything we do, How bad would it be? You are not going to have a positive pressure, just what's needed for stabilization?
Yes, you could use some valve that opens only if there is underpressure in the basement. But that will be a very weak spring, as the pressure differences we are talking about are not that large.
I think I would also make it a one way valve (to avoid warm air being blown out).
I think I would also make it a one way valve (to avoid warm air being blown out).
I had a oak on a oil fired burner years ago, it had a vrv"vacuum relief valve" in case the intake from the exterior got clogged
As long as the line is a tube connected to outside (and not to the stove), yes.
But is suspect there are off the shelve solutions for this too (likely at a higher price).
The problem is if the oak starts to act as a chimney and vents hot gases. They are not designed for that don't have clearances etc it is most likely against code because something happened probably multiple times. They really don't just make rules for the hell of it.
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