Started out using wood for our primary heat a couple years' ago with a Napoleon 1450. Even though the 1450 heated our 2200 sq ft bungalow from the fully finished basement (1100 down and 1100 up) fairly well, the list of things we didn't like about the stove started my search for something different - massive amounts of heat put out in the first few hours, then the house started cooling off; the stove burned hot, regardless of draft setting and we didn't like the fact there was no control over how hot it got. Don't get me wrong, the 1450 is a great stove, but heating from a basement with an exterior chimney with this stove highlighted all of the things we didn't like about it. What we identified as being absolute requirements for us was control over the heat, longer times between reloads to fit our work schedules, a stove that is 2.25 cu ft or larger, something that wouldn't run us out of the basement rec room where the stove is, a 6" flue if at all possible, something that needed ember protection only, something that had a 7" or less corner clearance and preferably something that was aesthetically pleasing if at all possible. We contemplated going to a 1900 or maybe even the Enerzone 3.4, but after doing quite a lot of research online about the different options, we decided on a BK which would meet all of our prerequisites except maybe the aesthetically pleasing part. Of course, reading all of the rave reviews on here about the "alien" technology didn't help either
With no local BK dealer, we had to rely on the printed brochures from BK's website and narrowed it down to either the Sirocco 30, Princess or the King using a 8" to 6" reducer and hope for no smoke spillage. As the King was only $500 more than the Sirocco 30, I was all set to pull the trigger, but due to draft measurement requirements laid out in the codes here and the extra cost of the 8" connector pipe, we decided on the Sirocco 30. I ordered it up on the 3rd of Feb and it was drop shipped to my house on the 13th.
I decided to order everything I would need in one shot, so I also got the blowers and convection deck.
On to the pics:
The 1450 being replaced:
After waiting all day for the truck to show up, the stove arrived. The stove body is crated on its own, so the owner has option to install the leg kit or a pedestal:
When I got it uncrated, I noticed several blemishes in the paint, most notably a big one on the rear right corner of the stove top where it looks like something may have rubbed off the paint. Based on all of the complaints about shoddy welding in the stove collar I read here, I also wanted to get a close-up look in the collar ASAP in case I had to do some grinding. I am happy to say that the welds all look good, and no booger welds or large amounts of spatter were present:
Everything else was boxed separately, so I unpacked everything.
Pedestal and ash pan:
Plain cast door:
Closeup of the door latch:
Closeup of the latch on the firebox:
The pedestal is mounted to the stove body by 4 bolts. I stripped all of the firebrick out of the firebox and removed the side shields before using my engine crane / shop hoist to lift the stove body to mount the pedestal. Once everything was together, we moved the stove into the basement using a fridge cart I bought when we moved into the house.
Once we got the stove into position, I mounted the convection deck and blowers to the stove. When I attached the slip section of the connector pipe to the stove collar, I noticed that when the flare in the bottom of the pipe was fully seated on the top of the stove collar, the bottom edge of the pipe was above the top of the convection deck. I called the sweep I bought this through, the local stove shop and even to BK in Penticton to check to make sure this was normal, and all agreed. I still think it looks sloppy, but I might invest in another slip section piece which will seat all the way into the collar. An Excel stove adapter would sit in the collar just the same as the current pipe, so I am not going to attempt that. It was a very big pain getting the "self tapping" screws to tap into the collar, so I pilot drilled the holes - 3 drill bits and a bunch of broken screws later, it's all safely mounted and secure.
I reinstalled all the firebrick. When I pulled the brick out of the stove body in the garage, one of the standard sized ones was broken across the width, so I picked up a replacement SBI brick locally for $4. A couple things stood out at me when I was handling the bricks - they all seem to be pumice bricks, very light and not near as dense as the heavier ones that were in my Napoleon, and there is a fabric mat under the layer of bricks across the stove floor. I assume this is an insulating layer of sorts to reduce the amount of heat being transferred through the stove floor:
The ash plug seems tinier than I expected, but I'll give it a whirl and if I don't like it, I kept the sealing plug and bottom plate to reinstall:
I got a pic of the stove side without the shield in place for those who may be interested:
And with the shield in place:
While I was in the firebox, I slipped out the cat and took a pic. The cat is steel, and the gasket was secured to it with a lot of masking tape. The tape burned right off in the first fire.
Dropped the door onto the hinge pins (I like this design A LOT better than the Nappy one of the separate pins that like to walk out) and latched the door shut. All I can say is that is what a lot more effort to get the door closed.
Based on the threads mentioning t-stat operation here, I pulled the cover off and twisted the dial a couple of times. On a stone cold stove, mine clicks closed at around 1 on the dial. The odd thing is that when turned fully open, the stop on the rod contacts at just shy of 3:
I was thinking of loosening the set screw on the dial and readjusting it so that it is sitting at 3.5 at the stop. Any thoughts on that - sound good or just run it as is?
Anyways, here it is all buttoned up and ready to start it's first fire:
I ran my wife's hairdryer up through the bypass for about 5 mins to warm the flue before starting a load of kindling:
So while we're waiting on the kindling to get fully engaged, here is what else came with the stove...
A bag with all of the documentation, a "BK" firestarter (I added it to my 100ct box of Super Cedars), a 2" cat probe, a poker / ash plug removal tool and the cat flame guard:
The bag of documentation came with break in directions from the company that I assume the paint came from, and it said to run it up to 400F for 15 mins and then up to 600F for an hour to cure the paint. As the kindling started to burn down, I figured there was no way a stone cold stove that hadn't been fired ever was getting up to 400 without more wood, so I added about 6 small-ish splits. When I opened the door, I was met with a wall of smoke coming out, which I wasn't at all happy about. I figured after that the smoke was probably not all from the wood, but from the oils and moisture being baked out of the internals (I trialled it again this morning after the load had all caught and very little smoke spillage, so it seems I was right). Once the cat was in the active zone, I closed the bypass and left the t-stat on high.
After several hours of smoke coming off the stove, my smoke / CO detectors going off and every window in the basement open, the paint seems cured. I left the stove on ~2 for the night and went to bed at 9:45ish with the stove top at 600ish and the cat glowing:
With no local BK dealer, we had to rely on the printed brochures from BK's website and narrowed it down to either the Sirocco 30, Princess or the King using a 8" to 6" reducer and hope for no smoke spillage. As the King was only $500 more than the Sirocco 30, I was all set to pull the trigger, but due to draft measurement requirements laid out in the codes here and the extra cost of the 8" connector pipe, we decided on the Sirocco 30. I ordered it up on the 3rd of Feb and it was drop shipped to my house on the 13th.
I decided to order everything I would need in one shot, so I also got the blowers and convection deck.
On to the pics:
The 1450 being replaced:
After waiting all day for the truck to show up, the stove arrived. The stove body is crated on its own, so the owner has option to install the leg kit or a pedestal:
When I got it uncrated, I noticed several blemishes in the paint, most notably a big one on the rear right corner of the stove top where it looks like something may have rubbed off the paint. Based on all of the complaints about shoddy welding in the stove collar I read here, I also wanted to get a close-up look in the collar ASAP in case I had to do some grinding. I am happy to say that the welds all look good, and no booger welds or large amounts of spatter were present:
Everything else was boxed separately, so I unpacked everything.
Pedestal and ash pan:
Plain cast door:
Closeup of the door latch:
Closeup of the latch on the firebox:
The pedestal is mounted to the stove body by 4 bolts. I stripped all of the firebrick out of the firebox and removed the side shields before using my engine crane / shop hoist to lift the stove body to mount the pedestal. Once everything was together, we moved the stove into the basement using a fridge cart I bought when we moved into the house.
Once we got the stove into position, I mounted the convection deck and blowers to the stove. When I attached the slip section of the connector pipe to the stove collar, I noticed that when the flare in the bottom of the pipe was fully seated on the top of the stove collar, the bottom edge of the pipe was above the top of the convection deck. I called the sweep I bought this through, the local stove shop and even to BK in Penticton to check to make sure this was normal, and all agreed. I still think it looks sloppy, but I might invest in another slip section piece which will seat all the way into the collar. An Excel stove adapter would sit in the collar just the same as the current pipe, so I am not going to attempt that. It was a very big pain getting the "self tapping" screws to tap into the collar, so I pilot drilled the holes - 3 drill bits and a bunch of broken screws later, it's all safely mounted and secure.
I reinstalled all the firebrick. When I pulled the brick out of the stove body in the garage, one of the standard sized ones was broken across the width, so I picked up a replacement SBI brick locally for $4. A couple things stood out at me when I was handling the bricks - they all seem to be pumice bricks, very light and not near as dense as the heavier ones that were in my Napoleon, and there is a fabric mat under the layer of bricks across the stove floor. I assume this is an insulating layer of sorts to reduce the amount of heat being transferred through the stove floor:
The ash plug seems tinier than I expected, but I'll give it a whirl and if I don't like it, I kept the sealing plug and bottom plate to reinstall:
I got a pic of the stove side without the shield in place for those who may be interested:
And with the shield in place:
While I was in the firebox, I slipped out the cat and took a pic. The cat is steel, and the gasket was secured to it with a lot of masking tape. The tape burned right off in the first fire.
Dropped the door onto the hinge pins (I like this design A LOT better than the Nappy one of the separate pins that like to walk out) and latched the door shut. All I can say is that is what a lot more effort to get the door closed.
Based on the threads mentioning t-stat operation here, I pulled the cover off and twisted the dial a couple of times. On a stone cold stove, mine clicks closed at around 1 on the dial. The odd thing is that when turned fully open, the stop on the rod contacts at just shy of 3:
I was thinking of loosening the set screw on the dial and readjusting it so that it is sitting at 3.5 at the stop. Any thoughts on that - sound good or just run it as is?
Anyways, here it is all buttoned up and ready to start it's first fire:
I ran my wife's hairdryer up through the bypass for about 5 mins to warm the flue before starting a load of kindling:
So while we're waiting on the kindling to get fully engaged, here is what else came with the stove...
A bag with all of the documentation, a "BK" firestarter (I added it to my 100ct box of Super Cedars), a 2" cat probe, a poker / ash plug removal tool and the cat flame guard:
The bag of documentation came with break in directions from the company that I assume the paint came from, and it said to run it up to 400F for 15 mins and then up to 600F for an hour to cure the paint. As the kindling started to burn down, I figured there was no way a stone cold stove that hadn't been fired ever was getting up to 400 without more wood, so I added about 6 small-ish splits. When I opened the door, I was met with a wall of smoke coming out, which I wasn't at all happy about. I figured after that the smoke was probably not all from the wood, but from the oils and moisture being baked out of the internals (I trialled it again this morning after the load had all caught and very little smoke spillage, so it seems I was right). Once the cat was in the active zone, I closed the bypass and left the t-stat on high.
After several hours of smoke coming off the stove, my smoke / CO detectors going off and every window in the basement open, the paint seems cured. I left the stove on ~2 for the night and went to bed at 9:45ish with the stove top at 600ish and the cat glowing:
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