Thinking Wood Gun...any advice or experience?

[avc8130]

Mike,

What temp do you have the low water temp aquastat set to?

I have been trying to wrap my head around the wiring/controls for the WG.

I understand how the aquastat will control the draft fan and the intake flap. What I don't understand is how the circulator pump will still get it's signal.

Right now on my oil boiler, when the zone calls for heat it opens the zone valve and the signal goes to the boiler controller. The boiler controller decides when the circulator pump will come on.

How does that work with the WG?

ac

 

[infinitymike]

I plan to connect the smoke hood exhaust ducting this weekend(in between splitting another cord, loading up the woodshed, cutting the grass, etc.....shees!). Weekends just are not long enough.

I hear that. Man there is just not enough time. Where does it all go?

 

[infinitymike]

Mike,

What temp do you have the low water temp aquastat set to?

I have been trying to wrap my head around the wiring/controls for the WG.

I understand how the aquastat will control the draft fan and the intake flap. What I don't understand is how the circulator pump will still get it's signal.

Right now on my oil boiler, when the zone calls for heat it opens the zone valve and the signal goes to the boiler controller. The boiler controller decides when the circulator pump will come on.

How does that work with the WG?

ac

I have to check but I think the low water temp aqua stat is set for 150*.
As far as the wiring goes I really don't know it went together. I had a pro do that.
I'll can basic wiring but this was a little above my pay scale.

 

[infinitymike]

AC

Mine my also be a little different since I have my oil set up as a back up so I have relays that communicate with each other and will shut off either unit base on the low water temp stat setting.

 

[infinitymike]

Sorry for all the typos. I'm doing this on my iPhone. Man I need to get help.

 

[mark123]

You don't need to touch the purge timer if the boiler is in normal operational mode when reloading, but I guess you could turn it anyway just to run the smoke hood.

I hear you screaming about the smoke hood. I'm working on mine. I have ordered the same fan AHS uses. Dayton states right on their specs it is only rated for 104F. I guess time will tell. I plan to wire it into the purge timer. I figure that way if the purge timer is on to reload, the smoke hood will be also. There also won't be 2 switches to fumble with and the fan will shut off when the purge timer does so no forgetting to turn it off.

How come you aren't using your smoke hood in the videos? It doesn't look like you have it plumbed yet?

ac

PS: I see an unused DHW coil too [/quote]

 

[infinitymike]

You don't need to touch the purge timer if the boiler is in normal operational mode when reloading, but I guess you could turn it anyway just to run the smoke hood.

I hear you screaming about the smoke hood. I'm working on mine. I have ordered the same fan AHS uses. Dayton states right on their specs it is only rated for 104F. I guess time will tell. I plan to wire it into the purge timer. I figure that way if the purge timer is on to reload, the smoke hood will be also. There also won't be 2 switches to fumble with and the fan will shut off when the purge timer does so no forgetting to turn it off.

How come you aren't using your smoke hood in the videos? It doesn't look like you have it plumbed yet?

ac

PS: I see an unused DHW coil too

[/quote]


i havent hooked the vent pipe up yet.

I almost never use the purge timer to reload. I usually check if I need to reload based on time from last reload and when the unit is on and burning.
I just shot 2 more videos and the first one I actually use the purge timer to force it to relight

I know I bought it with the coil and never hooked it up. I ended up getting 2 indirect water tanks. (which aren't hooked up either)
I'm not sure if I will ever hook up the coil since I'll be running the tanks.

 

[infinitymike]

Here is part 3

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[infinitymike]

Part 4

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[avc8130]

I have to check but I think the low water temp aqua stat is set for 150*.
As far as the wiring goes I really don't know it went together. I had a pro do that.
I'll can basic wiring but this was a little above my pay scale.

150F sounds about right. There will either be a fire or their won't and we don't want the draft fan blowing the whole boiler cold.

I plan to ask the boiler tech about the wiring today. If we can't figure it out, I'll call Darren at AHS Monday.

I just looked out the window: FROST. Perfect day to rip out the oil boiler and go central heat-less!

ac

 

[muncybob]

1st time I've had a chance to watch your videos(can't do that at work). I'll vouch for you that this is indeed the way the unit runs(re-ignite, etc) as long as the boiler has not been "off" too long. How long is too long? I think that depends on the bed of coals you have, refractory temp, etc. but I know that just as the vid shows mine has re-ignited after being off(I'll refrain from saying idle) for up to 3.5 hours.
I usually don't wait for it to restart though as I have a map gas torch nearby and a quick shot to the coals gets things going pronto. So far this year we have started the boiler in the morning only to take the chill off, so the boiler has been off since mid morning the day before and I know this is probably way too long to hope it restarts on it's own. A few splits thrown in and about 10 seconds with the torch and away it goes.

 

[avc8130]

1st time I've had a chance to watch your videos(can't do that at work). I'll vouch for you that this is indeed the way the unit runs(re-ignite, etc) as long as the boiler has not been "off" too long. How long is too long? I think that depends on the bed of coals you have, refractory temp, etc. but I know that just as the vid shows mine has re-ignited after being off(I'll refrain from saying idle) for up to 3.5 hours.
I usually don't wait for it to restart though as I have a map gas torch nearby and a quick shot to the coals gets things going pronto. So far this year we have started the boiler in the morning only to take the chill off, so the boiler has been off since mid morning the day before and I know this is probably way too long to hope it restarts on it's own. A few splits thrown in and about 10 seconds with the torch and away it goes.

Do you have the cycle timer? I already have one on order and plan to wire it in once the system is up and running on the factory AHS configuration.

ac

 

[muncybob]

Yes, we have the cycle timer. This works great for keeping the coals hot when I plan to leave the boiler on and house temps don't call for heat very often. Getting the timer set at the right times was a bit of trial and error but now it's set to turn on for 1 period every 60 minutes.

Just finished another truckload of wood into the shed...about time I got started on the smoke hood ducting.

 

[Gasifier]

It is about time I got started on putting my wood under the covered porch for the winter. My gun is running nicely. It is time for a cleaning of the tubes and the ash pan. The kids all took a nice hot Jet Tub bath the other night after a cold and rainy soccer game. A lot of hot water. Heated with the gun. Priceless.

 

[avc8130]

Today was a big day!

First we plumbed in the new electric water heater:

Then we moved the Wood Gun!

First we got it on the Skid Steer:

Then across the yard:

Through the TIGHT door:

Across basement A:

Up the STEP:

I took my first showered warmed by clean (lol) electric. The plan is to make a shopping list for plumbing in the WG and start attacking it next week.

ac

 

[Gasifier]

Nice work ac! That reminds of how glad I am that my install is done. Nice work and good luck. Keep us posted. And keep the pics coming.

 

[maple1]

Looks like you got a little ding in it from the strap? I dinged my water heater getting it on a stand.

 

[avc8130]

Looks like you got a little ding in it from the strap? I dinged my water heater getting it on a stand.

Yeah, we were concerned about going across the uneven ground in the yard and sure enough, the skid steer went into a hole and the strap tightened. I pulled the panel and straightened it the best I could (more recent than the photo) but once metal is bent it is also stretched so she won't be perfect. I can't fret it. It's a minor battle scar. I saved enough by moving it myself that I am ok with it.

ac

 

[JP11]

Yeah, we were concerned about going across the uneven ground in the yard and sure enough, the skid steer went into a hole and the strap tightened. I pulled the panel and straightened it the best I could (more recent than the photo) but once metal is bent it is also stretched so she won't be perfect. I can't fret it. It's a minor battle scar. I saved enough by moving it myself that I am ok with it.

ac

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger. Mine had a dimple in the side from shipping. It still saves money like a banshee.

JP

 

[avc8130]

Don't feel like the Lone Ranger. Mine had a dimple in the side from shipping. It still saves money like a banshee.

JP

I'm not losing sleep over it. I went over the boiler install with my installer and there are a few out-lying decisions to be made:

1. How the heck do we connect this to the masonry chimney? My masonry thimble is 7", so I will need a 6-7 adapter. I need to know how my horizontal run will work out to place the boiler and really get to work. My ceiling is within 12" of the top of the stove pipe. So I need something to reduce clearances. Double wall, screw on shield? Wood Gun says I need stainless. I just can't seem to find the perfect solution.

2. Controls. The Wood Gun seems to be able to "run itself" and nothing more. We will need to add a relay to activate the circulator pump when there is a call for heat.

3. Workshop zone. I need to leave a provision to add my zone for my out-building. We will probably just leave a full size port in the manifold on both supply and return. This should let us figure out the specifics later.

ac

 

[Gasifier]

I'm not losing sleep over it.

I put a small dent in mine when we moved it into place. It added a little character to the boiler, it in my opinion.

I went over the boiler install with my installer and there are a few out-lying decisions to be made:

1. How the heck do we connect this to the masonry chimney? My masonry thimble is 7", so I will need a 6-7 adapter. I need to know how my horizontal run will work out to place the boiler and really get to work. My ceiling is within 12" of the top of the stove pipe. So I need something to reduce clearances. Double wall, screw on shield? Wood Gun says I need stainless. I just can't seem to find the perfect solution.
In my basement I first installed the pipe coming out of the Ash cyclone the way AHS said to do it. That was a mistake. I ran the standard stove pipe up vertical, then horizontal and over to my double wall insulated pipe that went through the wall thimble. Too much heat loss that resulted in too low of stack temps at the top of the 27 feet of chimney. That too low of stack temp resulted in creosote forming. Too much flat run that resulted in ash and creosote forming in those pipe sections. I changed this as soon as I could afford it. Late in the season last Feb./March. I instead continued the double wall insulated pipe down at an angle using two 30Deg. bends and some straight pipe to get me to within about 13 inches of the top of the ash cyclone.
This resulted in much higher stack temperatures further up the chimney and no more creosote problems. As well as any ash slides back down the pipe and into the ash collector. So now when I take the pipe apart inside the house there is nothing in it. I will take some pictures tonight of the new and post them with some pictures of the old to show you what I mean. I would try not to be putting your pipe flat. You can hold your hand within an inch of the double wall insulated pipe and leave it there forever. No worries. You can not with the regular stove pipe. This would also reduce the amount of pipe that is close to your ceiling. The supplier you buy the insulated pipe from should be able to hook you up with the right adaptors. Do as much as you can in double wall, insulted. S.S. You will not regret it. I could have saved some money if I had went with it the first time. I was trying to save some money by going the route that AHS said to go. That did not work.


2. Controls. The Wood Gun seems to be able to "run itself" and nothing more. We will need to add a relay to activate the circulator pump when there is a call for heat.

Mine is set up so that whenever the boiler is above 175 the first circ pump kicks on to send the hot water to my buffer tank. Then whenever any zone calls for heat another circ pump kicks on to draw water out of the top of the tank and/or the boiler from a T that is just before the tank on the line that feeds into the tank.



3. Workshop zone. I need to leave a provision to add my zone for my out-building. We will probably just leave a full size port in the manifold on both supply and return. This should let us figure out the specifics later.

Sounds like you have that all set.

ac

 

[avc8130]

In my basement I first installed the pipe coming out of the Ash cyclone the way AHS said to do it. That was a mistake. I ran the standard stove pipe up vertical, then horizontal and over to my double wall insulated pipe that went through the wall thimble. Too much heat loss that resulted in too low of stack temps at the top of the 27 feet of chimney. That too low of stack temp resulted in creosote forming. Too much flat run that resulted in ash and creosote forming in those pipe sections. I changed this as soon as I could afford it. Late in the season last Feb./March. I instead continued the double wall insulated pipe down at an angle using two 30Deg. bends and some straight pipe to get me to within about 13 inches of the top of the ash cyclone.
This resulted in much higher stack temperatures further up the chimney and no more creosote problems. As well as any ash slides back down the pipe and into the ash collector. So now when I take the pipe apart inside the house there is nothing in it. I will take some pictures tonight of the new and post them with some pictures of the old to show you what I mean. I would try not to be putting your pipe flat. You can hold your hand within an inch of the double wall insulated pipe and leave it there forever. No worries. You can not with the regular stove pipe. This would also reduce the amount of pipe that is close to your ceiling. The supplier you buy the insulated pipe from should be able to hook you up with the right adaptors. Do as much as you can in double wall, insulted. S.S. You will not regret it. I could have saved some money if I had went with it the first time. I was trying to save some money by going the route that AHS said to go. That did not work.

Yes, PLEASE snap some pics. Trust me, I'd rather do it right, once!


What I can't find is a supplier for the pipe. From what I hear, you can't cut length of 2-wall like you can single. With that, how do you work with it for a stove connection? I need to be able to choose my own height and my own run to the thimble. No doubt that some angles will roll the ash back down better and keep the draft stronger.

ac

 

[mikefrommaine]

A Telescoping section of pipe will allow you to make the connection without cutting the pipe.

Here's an example

(broken link removed)

 

[avc8130]

A Telescoping section of pipe will allow you to make the connection without cutting the pipe.

Here's an example

(broken link removed)

I've found that, but it isn't stainless :-(.

ac

 

[Gasifier]

A Telescoping section of pipe will allow you to make the connection without cutting the pipe.

Here's an example

(broken link removed)

I have never used this telescoping pipe. I went as far as I could and then used the adapter to go from insulated double wall to single wall and ended up with an adjustable 90 degree elbo attached to the adapter and right to the top of the ash cyclone. It was a bit of a pain in the a.., but it worked. I don't know if they have telescoping pipe in the brand that I have or not. I will have to look into that. So the telescoping just goes straight in and out. Right? There is no flexing it side to side or curving. Right?