Even though I only run Husqvarna oil that has stabilizer in it, I just decided to drain the fuel in the 350 and run things dry. It hasn't seen service work other than one day my father borrowed it since the 555 came home.
Thinking about getting another saw.
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Even though I only run Husqvarna oil that has stabilizer in it, I just decided to drain the fuel in the 350 and run things dry. It hasn't seen service work other than one day my father borrowed it since the 555 came home.
I have not had a problem starting the saw, but it was recommended by others to me to read the manual first for the procedure. I'll give you the same recommendation even though I never had any issues while others have said they did. Only difference in starting compared to other saws is that it gets a few more pumps of the primer bulb than my 350. Also, for the first few tanks of fuel I had to remember to set the choke then turn it off after refueling a warm saw to set the high idle for it to start quickly. Now that it's broken in, if I forget to do that, the saw still starts easily.
Also, to set the autotune it recommends a large log and basically running the poo out of it for 5 minutes. I did that with a smile
I'm excited enough about the new saw that I will probably read the manual just for fun.
I ordered a Husqvarna bag for the saw and got an extra chain and oil tonight.
I wanted to buy a chain grinder to keep the chains sharp, but after a little homework, I realized that the grinders that are around here don't work for this chain size. I could order it online, but I wanted to see it in person first. I did buy files for that size so I could keep them sharp long enough to get them done at a shop.
Instead of a grinder, I did order a moisture meter.
My 350 uses a .325 chain, and I always did those with a file. Once I moved to the larger 3/8 chain in the 555 I was able to use an electric sharpener that my buddy has and really like it. I put one on the christmas list that could do both, his sharpener wheel wouldn't do the .325 chains.
That said, for best chain life, it is best to either sharpen with a file or use a grinder. Each will put a slightly different cut on the chain and so doing both can wear a chain out faster, or give an off sharpening. I had a few chains I got lazy after a couple of busy weeks of cutting and dropped them off to be sharpened at the shop. I had hell with them when they came back. It was an experienced shop but I think after they ground them, I had a hard time getting them to sharpen by a file again.
pen
I always run "high test" which is 92 octane around here for anything of mine that is 2 stroke. With the exception of the turbo mitsubishi I owned, and a supercharged pontiac (both history events now) which needed high octane, everything else always gets 87; but two strokes get the extra octane.
pen
JRJ
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I've been tempted to try one of those. Keep us posted as to what you think of it.
JRJ
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JRJ
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JRJ
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samdweezel05
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This is how it starts. Go buy one saw and the next thing you know you have a building in your yard dedicated to storing the next one and the next one and the.......
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