Hey Guys - just hoping to bump this so someone in the know can answer my questions on this (post #54 right above). With discussions bouncing back and forth regarding o2 sensors, mass air, etc....I feel there is 3 different focus of discussions taking place that all have different requirements, clean emissions, ideal burn, and stove heat efficiency. Either that or I am totally missing something very apparent to everyone else so would really appreciate the clarification/education!
Clean emissions and ideal burn are kinda the same thing.
Hey Guys - just hoping to bump this so someone in the know can answer my questions on this (post #54 right above). With discussions bouncing back and forth regarding o2 sensors, mass air, etc....I feel there is 3 different focus of discussions taking place that all have different requirements, clean emissions, ideal burn, and stove heat efficiency. Either that or I am totally missing something very apparent to everyone else so would really appreciate the clarification/education!
Stoitiometry as it relates to the air and fuel in the combustion of a pellet stove has to take in to consideration a lot of variables that are not known or may be a variable. The common ratio in wood combustion is 35 parts air to 1 part fuel as they meet and combust in the combustion zone. Pellet stoves, because they have controls and induced draft for a very long time enjoyed a default efficiency of 78% as it was thought that through these controls, optimum efficiency was going to be achieved. I believe this myth as been busted. All manufacturers seems to go about this achievement in all sorts of ways and if I had to put money on it, from the testing I've been privy to in the lab as well as my vast knowledge of equipment out there, I'd have to say that very few, if any, are able to get to and maintain that sweet spot and here's why. As I said above, there are variables.
For example, a pellet stove rated for 3" diameter venting that has 3 90 degree offsets, rises 7 feet in height and travels 2 feet horizontal will have much more restriction than a direct vent installation of 3' straight out horizontal through a wall. These two installation types are common and both quite short runs but will perform different, especially once they are dirty, whether they are warm or cold and whether there may be additional influences such as leeward or windward issues relating to the side of the house they may be installed on. Additionally the same unit may be vented in to a masonry liner, insulated or not and extending 40 feet above a roof pitch. All the same stove.
Some installation requirements want the installer to start and run the stove and set dampers, such as the case with all Sherwood products. Harman may have a default impeller that is used below 4000 feet in altitude or another one used above.
All of this plays into how much air is allowed to enter the machine. Most stoves have an excess of air. This allows the unit to run and operate the same when it's clean as when it's slightly neglected but this approach will lower the overall combustion efficiency as well as emissions.
The correct ratio of air required cannot be attained in an all-in-one blanket approach. As stated above, Sherwood allows a damper to be set for the installation by measuring the draft and making the required corrections but j can tell you most installers just don't do it. It adds an additional 1 or 2'hours to the install, most don't own the equipment etc etc
Back in the day or Austroflamme, now Rika and also the engine for todays Hearthstone pellet stoves, a mass airflow sensor was used in the intake path that allowed the controls to measure and ramp up or down the combustion fan to try and create a perfect air to fuel ratio. If the vent was in a tall chimney liner, there would be an assist once the liner became warm and this would pull air through the machine. The control board can see the RPMs rising and slow the motor. If the system had a direct vent and it was very dirty, the airflow would be restricted and to some extent the draft blower could speed up and deliver more air....however, there are some drawbacks; the controls are ONLY measuring the air flow and bouncing that info off a preprogrammed known variable written in to the logic. Also, it can only measure the intake air from the intake. Of the stove has an air wash, gasket leak etc, combustion efficiency is affected. This system is far from perfect. While it seems to know what going on in the stove for air, it doesn't really know what going on on the fuel side.
From a measurement standpoint it seems to me that if one is trying to create the "perfect burn" one MUST measure the stove's combustion efficiency such as with a oxygen sensor as well as mass air flow and perhaps even a fit of temp sensor and white your at it, toss a sensor on the vent too.
It's a lot to consider and try and work out. I can tell you this, no manufacturer seems to want to let the end user know too much about what actually going on and perhaps that's an issue the service sector of this industry needs to try and figure out.
I spent a couple days with this dude Norbert, a builder of masonry heaters up in Canada. We was saying that they passed some regulations in his parts where technicians as part of a chimney service actually have to test the system for efficiency and make adjustments as necessary. The test adds $100 or so to the cost of a service call and requires an upfront investment of $6k or so for the equipment, but in his view it's worth it. For one it gives a bit of credibility back to the trade as we are actually measuring something and making improvements AND it kind of thins out those who are charging for a service that they may or may not be doing correctly. That's a whole new thread.