Texas Stove Help

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.
begreen,

I don't really have a sketch (and you would laugh at anything I would attempt to draw freehand) so I've attached a current Autocad sketch of what I was 'planning'. Nothing is set in stone except for the wall placements and window placements. If I need the alcove to extend further, that is fine. I just don't want it to take up a good portion of the room if I can help it.

[Hearth.com] Texas Stove Help

Just for reference, this is what my wife sent me that is 'exactly' what she wants, but in the corner of the room. So the stove would be set back into the alcove, though I don't think it needs to be set all the way back, and the mantle would be 2/3 up the wall to ensure a good enough distance from the stove.

[Hearth.com] Texas Stove Help

To be honest, I don't care much about the looks of the stove. I'm more concerned with the performance to value ratio, and I'm fairly confident that I can talk my wife into any stove (look-wise) as long as she gets the alcove she wants. For the price, I really do like the Osburn, but am still waiting on pricing for the Pacific Energy stoves. Would it make that much of a difference for me, in Texas, to have cast iron over just all steel?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As drawn this is not really an alcove installation. It is a simulated fireplace install. To create the entire structure must be non combustible, including the mantel. For a free-standing stove a simpler approach would be to do a corner install with a non-combustible mantle on the rear wall sides. This can be done quite attractively - for example:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...-clearance-to-freestanding-wood-stove.155497/

Or, to simulate a fireplace, consider installing a high efficiency ZC fireplace like the PE FP30a. Then you will have a zero-clearance install that can accommodate a mantel and will be sure to please the wife.
 
begreen,

Thanks for the response. I showed my wife the link you sent (which in my opinion, looks great) and she said it is not the look she is wanting. Figures.

What is the difference between the PE FP30 and a stove insert, like the Super Insert? The numbers look similar, but I'm confused on what the benefits/downsides are between the two.

I'm assuming I'll have to do an insert since that is what my wife is looking for, but at this point, if I go that route, I want to get the most efficient option, if possible.
 
The Super or Summit insert need a full masonry fireplace to be installed into. The FP30 does not. The FP30 is a fireplace that has zero clearances so it can be built into a framed structure. The price and performance is similar to a flush wood stove insert.

Inserts go into an existing fireplace and zero-clearance fireplaces are independent, they do not need a pre-existing fireplace. If you are starting from scratch then there is no need to build a fireplace just to install an insert into it. There are many zero-clearance fireplaces, just avoid the cheap contractor specials if you want to heat as well as have a nice look and fire view. Get a good EPA ZC instead.
 
Last edited:
Achieving that type of mantle would require a lot of pre-planning and pre-approval before attempting. Would likely cost more than a more traditional install ...

I agree with begreen. It actually looks like an original fireplace in an old home ... complete with marble mantel.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.