Tarm BLT control box

[dogwood]

I was thinking, as you say, about putting in a second thermostat and making the current furnace's simple thermostat a "slave" to the new one. I was planning to use the current thermostat's "fan only" setting" to just blow air through the W/A hx, and its' "Auto" setting to turn the whole furnace on when there was no heat in storage and the Solo Innova was not firing. Are those the controls you are asking about? It's a very basic thermostat.

If the Solo Innova is firing and providing hot water directly to the W/A hx through the storage bypass loop, and storage is below 150 degrees, how and from where should the thermostat be signalled to turn on the "fan only" function? I am going to wire the signal from storage from the aquastat and RIB, exactly as you say, to turn off the "Auto" switch on the current thermostat if storage is up to temp. That solves that part of the wiring.

I am thinking now maybe that I will have to add back that eliminated aquastat "A", or figure how to signal directly from the wiring panel on the side of the Solo Innova.

Mike

 

[webie]

Ok differences now in the equation . If you do use a seperate thermostat then you will need a controller that acepts TT input for actuating relay controls . A taco SR501 single zone control should suffice run a new TT to the TT connects in the taco relay this will provide your tripping for your relay to have your zone valve open that allows water to your HX provided your storage is at 150 degrees. Let your aquastat for your storage tank make or break the TT to the controller , the taco controller has an extra relay in it that you can use to do a connect for your furnace fan via some jump wires to the second relay in the SR501 via some jump wires the same that are used on your fan only . I understand what you are talking about if your storage is under 150 what will tell your fan to run if there is a call for heat . This will be simple to satisfy a heat rise in your storage first before you are capable of auto operation. If this is a problem down the road it can be addressed later but I doubt it will be . Otherwise you can use a RIB that when your boiler pump is running it does a connect to those TT wires in your aquastat to make them connected even though your aquastat would not be satisfied .
you can look up the Taco relay on there sight and be able to look at how to wire it . The one I am useing I grabbed off of ebay for 30 bucks. If you want you can PM me and we can talk by phone if that would help .
Webie

 

[dogwood]

Thanks Webie. I've been looking at the electrical connector panel at the side of the Solo Innova that Rob C is utilizing. It looks as if I can tap into the boiler's relay powered fan or pump circuit like he does to turn on the circuit for the furnace fan when the house thermostat is calling for heat. This circuit is always on when the boiler is putting out heat and closes when it is not. Maybe I can find a new house thermostat that can perform all the desired functions and replace, not have to slave, the old simple one currently in use. Thanks again for all your ideas. They have been quite helpful. Medman, in a previous post did all this it with one thermostat somehow. I'd like to keep it simple with a minimum of programming. I'll be sketching out the circuits this afternoon. Thanks again to everyone replying to the questions.

By the way, this is vague, but somebody posted some beautifully drawn wiring schematics a few months ago. I'd like to them use as a format, but I can't seem to find the post. Anyone happen to remember this post and could provide a link?

Mike

 

[WoodNotOil]

My fathers OWB is hooked up to his forced air furnace and all they did to keep the furnace from coming on was to put a second thermostat in the house that triggers the blower only. The original thermostat is just kept lower enough than the new one so that the burner won't kick on unless there is no heat the OWB. I think it controls the blower and the pump for the zone that feeds the plenum hx. Just thought I would throw that out as another option...

 

[dogwood]

Thats a good thought WoodNotOil. I'll explore that option as well as I draw this schematic out. Thanks.

Mike

 

[dogwood]

Webie or anyone else who can read a relay schematic, I figured and sketched out my wiring diagram thanks to you and others help these past two days. What remains is to figure out the wiring schematic of the RIBU1C relay to see if it will do what I need it to. I can wire a house, but these wiring schematics elude me. Attached is a picture of the RIBU1C schematic from (broken link removed to http://www.functionaldevices.com/pdf/RIBU1C.pdf). It's clearer if you hit the link.

Is this SPDT relay able to take a 24v input and switch to one 120v circuit when the 24v input is open, and to another 120v circuit when the 24v input is closed. If so, could you explain the wiring diagram, which wire goes where, and which side of the diagram is which. If not, what exactly does it do? I am hoping to use one branch (pole) to turn on the furnace fan and a circ pump, or the other branch (pole) to turn on the whole furnace. One or the other, mutually exclusive. Thanks.

Mike

 

[webie]

Sorry dogwood I missed this last posting . The RIB coil can be actuated either by 110v or 24 v either one . On the other end of the relay you have the option of a Normally open switch NO or a Normally Closed NC so lets say for instance you could use the power input from your circ 110v to make the fan switch connect on your furnace 24v .

 

[dogwood]

Thanks so much Webie. That is just what I needed to hear. I will order some RIBU1C's and figure out which wire goes where. I am going to apply one just as you described. One step closer to the finish line.

Mike

 

[Gooserider]

looked at the pic you provided, didn't go to the link... Can't quite make out the color codes, but the schematic was pretty straightforward...

On the left, the coil side had a choice - you can have EITHER 110VAC OR 10-30V AC or DC, (but NOT both!) the 110V hot connects to the top wire, or the 10-30V hot connects to the middle wire, with the Neutral going to the bottom wire - cap off which ever coil wire you aren't using.

On the right are the switched contacts - The center wire is common - presumably this is where your thermostat signal would go.

The N/C (Normally Closed) contact is on the top of the diagram, this is the connection that will be made when the signal voltage is OFF

The N/O (Normally Open) contact is on the bottom of the diagram, this is the connection that will be made when the signal voltage is ON

Hopefully this will help clear up how to wire the thing... If you are still having trouble figuring it out, there is a link to a pretty decent "Relays 101" primer in the "tidbits" sticky.

Gooserider

 

[DaveBP]

Here's a better schematic of the new version of RIB relays:

(broken link removed to http://www.functionaldevices.com/pdf/RIBU2C.pdf)

 

[dogwood]

Thanks for the explanation Gooserider, and you too for the link Dave. This wiring schematic business is coming together. It's been a learning experience.

Mike