Years ago my brother in law made his own stove, big but not quite as big as Dicks, that thing threw some serious heat. Heated from his basement, burned dirty but ate a ton of wood.
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Stove vs. insert challenge
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Some house and not your standard fireplaces. I wouldn't know where to begin. Did you burn the insert you have, to see what it does?
The stove he makes may work ok although i am sure it will burn really dirty. But there are so many ridiculous claims on his site. Like the box will never burn through. It is only 3/16 steel it absolutely can burn through especially if you burn garbage in it like he claims you can. It has an 8" vent but he says just use an increaser to run it on 6". And on and on.
Does anyone know of a reputable installer, including chimney liners, between Spokane and Missoula?
I am gonna get 2 Jotul for sure.
Thanks for all the assistance.
I am gonna get 2 Jotul for sure.
Thanks for all the assistance.
One place to start is go to www.csia.org and punch in your zip code. Check the list and inquire about their services.
Well I spoke to Armour Chimney services in Coeur D' Alene area. Going to have him clean all the flues (6) and inspect level 1.
- He recommends the Kuma stove since it is made in ID. Makes sense. He said their customer service is outstanding.
- Now, I can get a new "open box" Jotul F55 TL for 1950.00 vs. the Kuma Sequoia for 2600.00. I am unsure about the catalytic stoves, lots of "moving parts".
-It does appear that I can fit the Kuma Sequoia insert at the Fireplace #2 opening. It may make the kitchen real hot if the heat cannot circulate through the kitchen to the living room.
-It seems I should line the chimney for any wood stove.
-I can fit the ashwood insert at the #1 fireplace position. I think my home will be very cozy as it will percolate the heat upward to the loft area.
-Please give some opinions here, as I was sure about Jotul but a stove made next door seems to be wise and they are nice looking too. Seems either way i cannot go wrong, so I think.
Thanks, Antonio
- He recommends the Kuma stove since it is made in ID. Makes sense. He said their customer service is outstanding.
- Now, I can get a new "open box" Jotul F55 TL for 1950.00 vs. the Kuma Sequoia for 2600.00. I am unsure about the catalytic stoves, lots of "moving parts".
-It does appear that I can fit the Kuma Sequoia insert at the Fireplace #2 opening. It may make the kitchen real hot if the heat cannot circulate through the kitchen to the living room.
-It seems I should line the chimney for any wood stove.
-I can fit the ashwood insert at the #1 fireplace position. I think my home will be very cozy as it will percolate the heat upward to the loft area.
-Please give some opinions here, as I was sure about Jotul but a stove made next door seems to be wise and they are nice looking too. Seems either way i cannot go wrong, so I think.
Thanks, Antonio
I had the Chimneys cleaned. The CSIA Chimney sweep was very detailed and did a very nice clean/evaluation. After 45 years the chimneys do have issues and need some repairs. He stated that the basement chimney was 36' tall and had a "slammer" install wood burning insert. Now if we go with the recommended 6" pre-insulated liner kit will I still have drafting problems? Not sure how a damper can be installed on an insert.
Given the home layout I am considering a "unit per level" to make heating even and not have to go with the Beast Sequoia in an effort to "make up" heat by leaving out a stove. Is this reasonable?
Thought is:
1-Basement (1750 sq/ft with open steps at far end of insert to first floor): Use Regency or Kuma Ashwood insert.
2-Main level (2000 sq/ft); use jotul f55 Rangley stove in den which flows to kitchen/hallway/then living room which opens to upstairs loft.
3-Upstairs (1400 sq/ft loft/bedrooms x 2): Use regency from downstairs or ashwood and it will probably melt the snow on the roof too!
Too many stoves or just keep the downstairs stove and go Kuma Sequoia Beast on Main level and call it a day?
Thanks
Given the home layout I am considering a "unit per level" to make heating even and not have to go with the Beast Sequoia in an effort to "make up" heat by leaving out a stove. Is this reasonable?
Thought is:
1-Basement (1750 sq/ft with open steps at far end of insert to first floor): Use Regency or Kuma Ashwood insert.
2-Main level (2000 sq/ft); use jotul f55 Rangley stove in den which flows to kitchen/hallway/then living room which opens to upstairs loft.
3-Upstairs (1400 sq/ft loft/bedrooms x 2): Use regency from downstairs or ashwood and it will probably melt the snow on the roof too!
Too many stoves or just keep the downstairs stove and go Kuma Sequoia Beast on Main level and call it a day?
Thanks
I think I would try running with just basement and 1st fl heaters for a season and see how it goes. Double check measurements. At 30" I'm not sure the F55 vent will clear the fireplace lintel. The Ideal Steel might be a better choice if a lower vent is needed.
30" is real close on the jotul, the Kuma doesn't have more moving parts, just a cat and it probably has a decent guarantee. The IS that begreen suggested is a good choice, long burns and will definitely fit.
I would probably go with the kuma.
I would probably go with the kuma.
Update.
I bought the Kuma Sequoia stove. It just made sense to place the stoves wh were the chimney man recommend .
On another note, I have a friend with an old 1980's soapstone wood stove 8" flue. It is in really nice shape. He is selling it and does anyone know what that would go for today?
I bought the Kuma Sequoia stove. It just made sense to place the stoves wh were the chimney man recommend .
On another note, I have a friend with an old 1980's soapstone wood stove 8" flue. It is in really nice shape. He is selling it and does anyone know what that would go for today?
Ashful
Minister of Fire
Two stoves can be a lot of work to keep up with. Three is like having a second job. It's not just the loading and the tending, but all the extra felling, bucking, splitting, stacking, hauling, re-stacking, fetching, cleaning...
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Knowing a bit more about the stove would help . . . i.e. make and model. Right now your question would be like me saying, "I have a friend with a 1980s vintage car with a V-8. It is in a really nice shape. Anyone have any idea of how much that would sell for?"
Folks here could perhaps give you a very rough estimate . . . but knowing the make and model would help a bit more . . . pics of the outside and inside to verify its condition would help even more.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
The difference being there is no such thing as a highly-sought collectible 1980's stove, or a Barrett's auction for the same.
Old stoves in good condition = $200 - $400, all day long.
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Old stoves in good condition = $200 - $400, all day long.
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