Small loads (small is relative-my idea of small is likely different from yours) won’t get you an 8 hour burn.
Stove Replacement
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Would the Drolet Myriad iii be similar to the Austral iii? It seems like the same stove, just one on legs versus one on a pedestal. So does that mean the Myriad iii has the same radiant qualities as the austral? I think side clearances for both are 20 inches. I’ve got plenty of space around the hearth. My current stove, the Woodstock AS, I think has a side clearance of 26 inches. I guess I do like sitting next to the AS and feeling the radiating heat. Would the Myriad be similar, although a bigger stove?
Correct, same inside. It is a very radiant stove. The Legend III adds side shielding to the same stove body.
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Is it legal to buy a wood stove from a private seller, and have it installed and inspected, if it does not meet 2020 EPA standards?
I see a Jotul Oslo for sale. I’m guessing it’s a V2? Jotul has only made two Oslo models, correct? V2 and V3? An Olso V2 would be a dream stove for me. But I have to sell my current stove first.
I see a Jotul Oslo for sale. I’m guessing it’s a V2? Jotul has only made two Oslo models, correct? V2 and V3? An Olso V2 would be a dream stove for me. But I have to sell my current stove first.
Check with the local authorities, but yes, it should be legal and ok to install. The F500v2 is a solid workhorse.
Does anyone know how much the Oslo V2 weighs? What should I look for in terms of condition of the stove? Secondary burn plate and baffle? Where is the baffle located in the stove? Does anyone know if I am still able to get a direct air intake adaptor for this stove?
It weighs about 450# IIRC. Look very carefully for cracks around the flue collar and especially in base at the corners of the ash grate. The baffle style will indicate something of the age of the stove. The original had an iron baffle that was prone to warping. They switched to a board baffle to solve the issue.
So in order to look at the baffle in a Oslo V2, do I need to lift the top off the stove? Or can it be seen from looking inside the firebox?
So I hope to go and land this Jotul F500 on Saturday.
I think I’m correct in the following:
~ You can tell the difference between a v2 and v3 in a picture because a v3 has less arches on the glass than a v2.
~ you can convert the stove to a top vent by simply flipping over the flue collar piece. Just a bolt and screw or something then probably have to replace the gasket
~ You can still buy a direct air adapter for this stove.
Am I correct about all those things? So I am going to look very closely for cracking around the flue collar and inside the firebox at the corners of the ash grate. Anything else big I should be looking for?
I think I’m correct in the following:
~ You can tell the difference between a v2 and v3 in a picture because a v3 has less arches on the glass than a v2.
~ you can convert the stove to a top vent by simply flipping over the flue collar piece. Just a bolt and screw or something then probably have to replace the gasket
~ You can still buy a direct air adapter for this stove.
Am I correct about all those things? So I am going to look very closely for cracking around the flue collar and inside the firebox at the corners of the ash grate. Anything else big I should be looking for?
Oh yeah. And if this stove has an iron baffle, is it worth buying, or should I avoid it since they had problems with the iron baffle.
If the baffle is not warped, great. it's still serviceable then. It can be upgraded to the newer baffle if necessary. The OAK port on this stove may be a simple 3" round hole. If so, a regular sheetmetal start collar can be used.
So what you’re saying is, if the baffle is an iron baffle and it’s warped, it can be replaced with a board/vermiculite baffle relatively easily?
Yes. And yes the collar is just unbolted and rotated. The bolts may be a pain to get out but worst case they break and you have to drill and tap.
As long as there are no cracks they are great stoves. And they really only crack from abuse.
Note that the flue collar has a gasket. Be sure to pick one up in advance of changing its orientation. And check around the grate carefully for any cracks starting in the base.
Yes. If the previous owner cracked the ashpan door open to speed up cold starts they will crack there. Or if the ashpan gasket was leaky for quite a while
Should I worry about leaks at the seams of the stove? What should I look for and where specifically?
If you can darken the room, have someone take a bright flashlight and shine it along the corner seams from the inside of the stove while you look for light leaks on the outside of the seam that the light is shining on.
As a temporary fix, yes. But at this age it's better to take the stove apart and caulk the seams as the stove is put back together. Jotul uses a very good caulk, so it may be ok if not roughed up a lot during transit. If the stove needs to be rebuilt, it's not all that hard. It just takes patience and a bit of mechanical skill. Pictorially documenting the steps with a camera as it comes apart is a big help in rebuilding.
So I went to check out that F500 today and that was a bust. It was like someone took out the insides. There was no secondary burn grate and no baffle. And it looked a little rusty on the inside.
For the right price it may have been ok. But chances are those parts were destroyed from abuse
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