Stove pipe install

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Shtblocker

New Member
Feb 20, 2025
13
Iowa
Hello, completely new to this group

I am looking to install my dad’s old wood add on furnace in my shop. I have 13ft sidewalls.

Can I run 10ft of pipe on the inside before going out the wall and then run about 8-10ft on the outside?

I have never installed a wood stove that didn’t already have a chimney in place.

I am looking for any opinions and direction to the best solution.

Honestly I am looking to run the least amount of pipe outside. My shop was just roofed a few months again so do not plan to go thru the roof.

Where the stove will sit there will be cement board installed on the walls.
With that said would you put the stove in a corner for space saving or would you put it in middle to run up beside the peak?

Also opinions on what pipe you suggest. As in black pipe, double wall, triple wall etc.

Sorry for the long post but I have seen a lot of valuable information from you guys here just not one answering all of these questions

I am located in Iowa
Thank you all so much
 
Shtblocker said:
Hello, completely new to this group

I am looking to install my dad’s old wood add on furnace in my shop. I have 13ft sidewalls.

Can I run 10ft of pipe on the inside before going out the wall and then run about 8-10ft on the outside?

I have never installed a wood stove that didn’t already have a chimney in place.

I am looking for any opinions and direction to the best solution.

Honestly I am looking to run the least amount of pipe outside. My shop was just roofed a few months again so do not plan to go thru the roof.

Where the stove will sit there will be cement board installed on the walls.
With that said would you put the stove in a corner for space saving or would you put it in middle to run up beside the peak?

Also opinions on what pipe you suggest. As in black pipe, double wall, triple wall etc.

Sorry for the long post but I have seen a lot of valuable information from you guys here just not one answering all of these questions

I am located in Iowa
Thank you all so much
Click to expand...
Also forgot to mention, this stove has forced air draft on it. Not sure if that makes a difference in chimney setup.
 
Running stove pipe near the peak of the roof will keep much of the stove pipe inside the building and out of the elements. Single or double walled(whichever you chose) is cheaper than the Class A that you will run on the exterior. Cleaning the chimney from the outside will be easier since your chimney cap will be within reach. Disadvantage is you have a stove sitting in the middle of the floor taking up valuable space.

“Honestly I am looking to run the least amount of pipe outside. My shop was just roofed a few months again so do not plan to go thru the roof“. Not sure how you are going to get your chimney to the outside? Thru a wall then a couple of 45 degree bends to clear the eaves?
 
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Murray01 said:
Running stove pipe near the peak of the roof will keep much of the stove pipe inside the building and out of the elements. Single or double walled(whichever you chose) is cheaper than the Class A that you will run on the exterior. Cleaning the chimney from the outside will be easier since your chimney cap will be within reach. Disadvantage is you have a stove sitting in the middle of the floor taking up valuable space.

“Honestly I am looking to run the least amount of pipe outside. My shop was just roofed a few months again so do not plan to go thru the roof“. Not sure how you are going to get your chimney to the outside? Thru a wall then a couple of 45 degree bends to clear the eaves?
Click to expand...
Yes my plan would be to go thru the wall. Just wasn’t sure exactly which routes to take. We will be siding the shop in the spring so wanted to have this in place prior. It will be vinyl siding so do I need to do something on the outside to protect it?

Shop isn’t real huge just tall. It’s a 24x30 with 13ft sidewalls.

We bought this place February 15th, 2024 as a dilapidated place. But it was worth it 2.3 acres, 2 bedroom house, 1/10th mile drive from the road with timber on one side, pasture on one side and cropland on 2 sides so pretty well secluded. Oh I forgot to mention the 4 1/2 car attached garages as well as the shop. 60k kinda hard to pass up.
 
That would have been great if I would have decided this prior to new roof. So now planning to go thru wall before siding in the spring.

Any tips on what needs done as it will be vinyl siding? Is there a threat of melting it? Is there a resolution to prevent it?
 
What's being proposed will work, it will cost a lot more than going straight up but it will work. In addition to needing more chimney pipe you'll need a proper through the wall kit like this:
www.rockfordchimneysupply.com

Through the Wall Kit for Rock-Vent Insulated Class A Chimney Pipe - Rockford Chimney

Use the through the wall chimney pipe kit when passing through a wall in your installation. Everything you need except for the Rock-Vent chimney pipe.
www.rockfordchimneysupply.com www.rockfordchimneysupply.com
Remember that stove pipe is for the interior only! It must transition to chimney pipe before passing through the wall.

The best thing to do is to read up on the manufacturer's installation instructions and maybe watch a couple of good install videos too. Then ask questions before proceeding. There are several safety rules that need to be adhered. Also, check local ordinances if this is a garage too.
www.rockfordchimneysupply.com

Chimney Pipe and Stove Pipe - Rockford Chimney

Looking to install a wood stove or fireplace with stove pipe and chimney pipe? We have all the info you need to get started here on your chimney pipe install!
www.rockfordchimneysupply.com www.rockfordchimneysupply.com
Duravent Duratech chimney install:
 
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Go up vertically inside as much as possible to help draft, transition with 45 deg elbows to chimney adaptor, go through wall with Class A wall thimble, wall support and tee outside, go up alongside building with Class A chimney, using proper wall supports as you go. Its not hard. Remember 12" pipe to go through wall thimble to connect to Tee. I'd still suggest to go through at peak area, knowing more pipe is needed, but the chimney will perform great doing this. Don't forget good dry seasoned wood, what you put in is what you get out as comfort. Good luck.
 
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OP, the suggestion to go through the roof is a good one. Less complicated and cheaper, especially near the peak. There are 2 parts to the flue system. Stove pipe and class A chimney. Chimney is expensive while stove pipe is not. A thru the roof kit is cheaper than the thru the wall kit. Any good roofer, or competent DIYer, can pass the chimney through the roof. A new roof install does not negate this.

Thru the roof will allow furnace placement wherever desired. A wall kit will benefit from the appliance being closer to the pass thru.
 
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bholler said:
Why? Any roof has to allow for penetrations. It will save you allot of money make it work better and make it easier to service
Click to expand...
Installation companies and shingle manufacturers have certain guidelines to follow to be able to warranty the service and product. I understand completely about the cheaper cost and more efficiency but also don’t want to void any warranties. I usually do all my roofing my self but unfortunately I’ve had an injury with multiple back surgeries that makes it not safe for me to do at this time so I had to have it hired out. It could absolutely be put through the roof but really can’t afford a voided warranty at this time financially. We already have so much wrapped up in this new acreage that we got before I had to have back surgery so did most of it ourselves. We got a property that was dilapidated to the point the only roof that did not have to be roofed right away was the house. The 4 1/2 car attached garage roof had to be removed from the inside due to gaping holes and not safe to walk on. Several rafters were replaced or sistered depending on the state they were in which mind you was all out of pocket. 3 days after completing that roof a tree fell in it and had no insurance as can’t get insurance till garages and shop roof were replaced. Shop roof was in almost the same condition but not as bad. It still had gaping holes in spots but could be walked on for the most part. All them roofs had rafters replaced or sistered during replacement as well of new sheeting of course. This was cash sale acreage that was ultimately a bargain. 2.3 acres 2 bedroom house 4 1/2 car attached garage and 24x30 shop with 13ft sidewalls. 1/10th of a mile driveway from road completely secluded by timber pasture and cropland.
The house had to have all new plumbing, partial electrical repair new flooring all new paint hole patches in walls and ceilings all new windows and doors which has all been out of pocket. Yes we have done 95% on our own to cut even more cost but we got the property for 60k

So ultimately I just can afford a voided warranty at this time.
 
All roofs have penetrations, many of which are done after the roof.
"probably voids warranty" needs verification. Contact your roofing company in writing. Ask whether the warranty will be honored for a flue exiting through the roof, using [brand flue pipe] and installed according to UL listed specs. (The latter is firesafety, but the roofing company likely won't know that...)

If the flashing is done properly, there's no issue...
 
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My goodness, if OP wants to go through side of building and up, its his choice. We all here have a tendency to try and save folks money when possible (and I'm sure its appreciated). Good luck with whatever install you go with, let us know if it worked out for you. Stay warm.
 
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