Adios Pantalones said:... if it fits through the door, it will burn.
That seems like a pretty easy-to-remember rule of thumb. I'll give one of those large splits a try today while I'm awake and can watch my results. Thanks AP.
Adios Pantalones said:... if it fits through the door, it will burn.
Cearbhaill said:Adios Pantalones said:I will skillfully dodge the obvious innuendo and just say the if it fits through the door, it will burn. Huge pieces may take a longer to get up to temp, but the smaller splits will help. I find that my stove is ready to have primary air shut down much faster if its packed right up.
I thought we weren't messing with the air at all- "much faster" still means you have to wait.
The question was about getting up, putting wood in (!) and going immediately back to bed.
No charring, no adjusting, no waiting around at all.
I need a sweet spot air control wise to do that .
Yep- thread drift.chutes said:In this particular case, I think AP is talking about starting the first overnight burn with large splits - or at least that is what I was asking about. If, by using large splits on my last load before bed, I can extend my burn, it might also solve my problem about losing more temps than I would like.
It's really pretty simple, secondary combustion happens at 1100+ degrees, so if you put in wood and have a coalbed that is hot enough to keep the upper part of the firebox over 1100 degrees you will not have to touch the air. If on the other hand you are adding wood and you have left your coalbed to the point where it is too depleted to maintain 1100+ degrees you will need to open the air and re-start the primary fire until there is enough heat to sustain 1100+ degrees with the primary closed. The side effect of doing this though is it quickly sends a substantial amount of your new load straight up the flue reducing the overall burn time once you do eventually damp down. To bypass this problem you could put in 10 sticks about 1" round and burn them fast over the coalbed. After 10 minutes while they are still have heavily active flame break them up, load up with large pieces of 2+ year seasoned wood and damp down.Cearbhaill said:If that was 100% the case we wouldn't need air controls in the first place.bokehman said:If your wood is well seasoned and you have a substantial, hot coalbed you should be able to add wood without touching the air.
What you are advising is to throw wood onto a coal bed that is completely damped down and go back to bed. [...] So your response to this is to just put wood on it and walk away?
So that would tell me that's it is more a matter of waking up earlier to catch it before it burns too far down for a "middle of the night stoking".bokehman said:It's really pretty simple, secondary combustion happens at 1100+ degrees, so if you put in wood and have a coalbed that is hot enough to keep the upper part of the firebox over 1100 degrees you will not have to touch the air.
As 10 minutes is too long, this isn't the answer I/we are looking for.If on the other hand you are adding wood and you have left your coalbed to the point where it is too depleted to maintain 1100+ degrees you will need to open the air and re-start the primary fire until there is enough heat to sustain 1100+ degrees with the primary closed. The side effect of doing this though is it quickly sends a substantial amount of your new load straight up the flue reducing the overall burn time once you do eventually damp down. To bypass this problem you could put in 10 sticks about 1" round and burn them fast over the coalbed. After 10 minutes while they are still have heavily active flame break them up, load up with large pieces of 2+ year seasoned wood and damp down.
But that's the purpose of this thread- finding the sweet spots!Pagey said:I'm admittedly nervous to attempt this. The last time I added split in the midst of a burn cycle, my temps spiked up from 600F to around 800F.
Most efficient is with the damper closed. Anything else is sending heat up the flue and lowering burn duration.Cearbhaill said:The answer- what we are looking for, and a couple already found- is where exactly to set the air so that it a) burns well, b) doesn't get too hot while still c) not have to wait around at all.
Cearbhaill said:this isn’t the answer I/we are looking for. [...] where exactly to set the air so that it a) burns well, b) doesn’t get too hot while still c) not have to wait around at all.
It look like you've answered your own question. If a magic sweet spot existed the stove wouldn't have air controls. If you want something akin to cruise control on a car (that increases and decrease the fuel supply as required to maintain a pre-set speed) you need a stove with a thermostat (Blaze King, etc) or EBT (Pacific Energy).Cearbhaill said:If that was 100% the case we wouldn't need air controls in the first place.
chutes said:Hogwildz said:For overnight burns, I put the biggest splits I can fit in the firebox, let it get blazing, cut her down all the way to low as she will go, and still pumping out heat in the morning with tons of coals and some remnants of the splits towards the rear. Of course I have another cubic foot of space than you do. Larger splits = longer burns.
Thank you.
So, question for you. If it fits in the insert and it is seasoned, is it okay to put it into the insert? In other words, I have some big splits that I made into a separate pile that I was going to split again. They are typical length (16"-18"), but I would say they are maybe 8"-10" wide on the bark side and 10" or more deep. These are about 2x to 3x the size of regular splits that I would throw in. They would fit easily, and in fact I could put in a number of small splits around them, or might even be able to fit in 2 of these big ones, but wasn't sure if that was "too" big for my stove.
Since I already have these large splits segregated, I could easily use them for overnight burns, but is there any rule of thumb as to when a split is too big?
Oh yeah- if I had known then what I know now... shoulda, woulda, coulda... hindsight is 20/20.. yadda yadda.bokehman said:It look like you've answered your own question. If a magic sweet spot existed the stove wouldn't have air controls. If you want something akin to cruise control on a car (that increases and decrease the fuel supply as required to maintain a pre-set speed) you need a stove with a thermostat (Blaze King, etc) or EBT (Pacific Energy).
Cearbhaill said:Adios Pantalones said:I will skillfully dodge the obvious innuendo and just say the if it fits through the door, it will burn. Huge pieces may take a longer to get up to temp, but the smaller splits will help. I find that my stove is ready to have primary air shut down much faster if its packed right up.
I thought we weren't messing with the air at all- "much faster" still means you have to wait.
The question was about getting up, putting wood in (!) and going immediately back to bed.
No charring, no adjusting, no waiting around at all.
I need a sweet spot air control wise to do that .
Cearbhaill said:Without knowing if it is smoldering or spiking the temperature?Bigg_Redd said:About adding wood: Just throw it in there and go back to bed.
No thanks. That would not be prudent in my case- I am trying to find the sweet spot of air intake where the fire will contunue to heat and burn efficiently without getting too hot while I am asleep and not there to damp it back down if need be.
Extending the burn cycle a bit without starting a whole new cycle that requires my staying awake.
Well.. success!chutes said:You know, I was incomplete in reporting my results yesterday. When I let it burn down to coals after 4 hours, I threw 2 splits on it - but I did also open up air intake to 1/2 (vs. nearly closed which is where it was at during the 4 hour burn). At 1/2, the splits burned strong for 2 hours, no smoke, no smoldering, no problem with glass. My results suggest that - with my insert - if I open up to 1/2 at coaling stage and toss in splits, no reason to open air all the way or to char splits. They cooked nicely, stove got up between 400 and 450, and stayed there for 2 hours.
I think you'll have better results with air opened up a bit more, but not needing to open it all the way. Maybe.....
I did not open to half, more like a quarter, but it did fine.
This is a good thing to know!
No and no.Bigg_Redd said:How do you not know? Don't know your stove? Don't know your wood?
Bigg_Redd said:How do you not know? Don't know your stove? Don't know your wood?
Adios Pantalones said:I had my wood in the house for a drink last night- trying to get to know it better. Man can that red oak put down some tequila. Burned like crazy afterwards too.
Adios Pantalones said:I had my wood in the house for a drink last night- trying to get to know it better. Man can that red oak put down some tequila. Burned like crazy afterwards too.
Hogwildz said:I must be bad, I don't personally know all my wood either.
I haven't had a chance to inspect each and every piece & species.
Giving a guy crap for being cautious is just wrong.
chutes said:Adios Pantalones said:I had my wood in the house for a drink last night- trying to get to know it better. Man can that red oak put down some tequila. Burned like crazy afterwards too.
LOL! I'll have to try that. We're putting up the xmas tree tonight, so I bought the fixins for spicy Bloody Mary's. Thought I'd have a few of those before switching over to Long Trail or Sammy. Hope my wood likes spicy Bloody Mary. Guess I should know that by now....
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