Stihl 038av - Just picked it up - Few ????

[southbound]

put on the carb and get it running before you spend time on a piston.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

any luck???

Bought the Bing carb from the link you posted. I did talk to them before I bought it this morning.
I will be getting the carb in the ad that does have that 'tube' on the bottom of the carb which apparently doesn't get hooked up to anything. He called it the 'compensation' valve or something to that effect. It's just part of the design. Not sure of the functionality of it.

Also said he's had '0' problems with those carbs and that is what I need. They shipped it out before noon today. Will probably have Wednesday.

Now I need to decide if I should go ahead and buy a piston kit or maybe just rings or get it running lst and see how it treats me. I'm at 120 psi on the compression test. I should probably go ahead and do the piston.

As was mentioned, put the carb on first. The China tester you bought might also be leaking somewhere. Years ago I tested Volkswagen diesel compression with an inexpensive tester & was disapointed at how low it was. I took the car in for diagnosis & the compression was fine. I was told use a Snap On tester that positively doesn't leak. 120 is way too low though if thats accurate. I would expect a little piston smearing of the aluminum, sticking rings if it is 120. Nice looking saw at a good price though, Randy

 

[gapman789]

any luck???

Bought the Bing carb from the link you posted. I did talk to them before I bought it this morning.
I will be getting the carb in the ad that does have that 'tube' on the bottom of the carb which apparently doesn't get hooked up to anything. He called it the 'compensation' valve or something to that effect. It's just part of the design. Not sure of the functionality of it.

Also said he's had '0' problems with those carbs and that is what I need. They shipped it out before noon today. Will probably have Wednesday.

Now I need to decide if I should go ahead and buy a piston kit or maybe just rings or get it running lst and see how it treats me. I'm at 120 psi on the compression test. I should probably go ahead and do the piston.

As was mentioned, put the carb on first. The China tester you bought might also be leaking somewhere. Years ago I tested Volkswagen diesel compression with an inexpensive tester & was disapointed at how low it was. I took the car in for diagnosis & the compression was fine. I was told use a Snap On tester that positively doesn't leak. 120 is way too low though if thats accurate. I would expect a little piston smearing of the aluminum, sticking rings if it is 120. Nice looking saw at a good price though, Randy

Noted. Autozone had a compression tester to loan out. The only name I saw on the their loaner was 'OEM'. It seemed to be of good quality. I'll go there tomorrow and get that and see how it compares to the 'Actron' brand I bought.

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

any luck???

Bought the Bing carb from the link you posted. I did talk to them before I bought it this morning.
I will be getting the carb in the ad that does have that 'tube' on the bottom of the carb which apparently doesn't get hooked up to anything. He called it the 'compensation' valve or something to that effect. It's just part of the design. Not sure of the functionality of it.

Also said he's had '0' problems with those carbs and that is what I need. They shipped it out before noon today. Will probably have Wednesday.

Now I need to decide if I should go ahead and buy a piston kit or maybe just rings or get it running lst and see how it treats me. I'm at 120 psi on the compression test. I should probably go ahead and do the piston.

As was mentioned, put the carb on first. The China tester you bought might also be leaking somewhere. Years ago I tested Volkswagen diesel compression with an inexpensive tester & was disapointed at how low it was. I took the car in for diagnosis & the compression was fine. I was told use a Snap On tester that positively doesn't leak. 120 is way too low though if thats accurate. I would expect a little piston smearing of the aluminum, sticking rings if it is 120. Nice looking saw at a good price though, Randy

Noted. Autozone had a compression tester to loan out. The only name I saw on the their loaner was 'OEM'. It seemed to be of good quality. I'll go there tomorrow and get that and see how it compares to the 'Actron' brand I bought.

Hold the throttle wide open when testing, Randy

 

[rwhite]

At 120 psi it will run. The compression guages for chainsaws are alot more delicate than any old auto guage because they don't have the volume to work some of them properly.

 

[gapman789]

UPDATE: Got the Bing replacement carb today. Just now put it on.
After going through my compression testing procedure, I realize that I didn't need to add an adapter that came with the kit to the end of the air hose. Also, when I did the test before with the old carb, the cylinder was filling up with fuel and coming out of the muffler, which was going to give me a bad reading as well.

So, here's how I did the compression test this go round.
Remove air filter
Lock choke on
Screw hose in finger tight
Pull 5 times or until the psi tops out ( I believe it was 5 pulls with an extra pull to make sure)

I got 150!!

I also looked at the intake side of the piston skirt while the carb was off and it looked good as well.
And I checked the impulse/fuel line for cracks or leaks and it was a little dry rotted where it goes into the tank, so I'll go ahead and replace that.

Now, I'm ready to try and start this thing, I think. My concerns are with the settings on the new carb. Are they generally set to a 'happy medium' and then need to be adjusted? I just want to start it for now and I'll take it to the shop for a proper tune.
Can I duplicate the settings on the old carb by counting turns in and out? Or will that be like apples and oranges? Tilloston vs. Bing.

 

[southbound]

One of the downloads will tell you where to start...

 

[gapman789]

One of the downloads will tell you where to start...

1 turn out on H/L per the manual.

So, with choke on, lst pull and it fires/runs for 5 secs.
It restarted a couple more times but died. I take the plug out and it's wet with fuel. I pulled it a few more times to see if gas was going to come out of the muffler like it did before the new carb and sure enough it did.

Where does that leave me? Sticking rings? If rings were sticking would I not have a low compression reading instead of the solid 150 which did slightly drop to 148 after about 20 mins.?

And more research begins.....

 

[southbound]

One of the downloads will tell you where to start...

1 turn out on H/L per the manual.

So, with choke on, lst pull and it fires/runs for 5 secs.
It restarted a couple more times but died. I take the plug out and it's wet with fuel. I pulled it a few more times to see if gas was going to come out of the muffler like it did before the new carb and sure enough it did.

Where does that leave me? Sticking rings? If rings were sticking would I not have a low compression reading instead of the solid 150 which did slightly drop to 148 after about 20 mins.?

And more research begins.....

You flooded it.......

Choke on all the way down pull till it gurgles....

then half choke one click up till it fires and runs.. At this point it will be running full throttle...

pull trigger and it will go from half choke to no choke and run as it should..

one more click up and you will turn off the saw..



Sounds like it is flooded I would set to half choke hold the trigger open and give it a few pulls.. It should start up..

 

[gapman789]

An added note, the breather filter is toast. When I hold it up to the light, I can't see any light at all. The outside screen is clean, but it's solid crud on the inside.
Guess I should stop trying to start it until I get a new filter on Friday?

Damn, starting to think that all that was wrong to begin with was a completely clogged air filter. lol

 

[southbound]

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=QA+11191+201610&catID;=

it still should run...

 

[gapman789]

Can't get it to fire. Cases must be full of fuel at this point.
I'm thinking that since the saw has sat for a few days, all the fuel that was in the cylinder and cases, evaporated. So when I put the new carb on, it fired immediately...but then flooded itself out. Which is basically the story I got from the guy I bought it from. It would start on for a sec then die.
I'm in the concrete biz and use Stihl TS400 saws daily. I know it's not a matter of me properly starting the saw. Something is wrong.

And this fell out when I turned the saw upside down to 'shake' fuel out of the cases. I know the pics are terrible. It's a small threaded set screw of sorts.
Any ideas on what it is?

Thanks South.

(broken image removed)
(broken image removed)

 

[southbound]

Idle speed adjustment screw from a tilly carb???

Really hard to tell from pic....

 

[amateur cutter]

Empty the case out, put a few drops of 10w30 oil down the cylinder, this will absorb some of the excess fuel & try starting it without the air filter. I'll bet the bottom end is full of mix. A C

 

[gapman789]

I'm gonna drain the tank, cylinder, and cases to the best I can from what I've read.
Get a new plug and filter and try her again this weekend.
BTW, muffler/screen is clean and clear.

Until next time....HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!.....and thanks to all for the info...

 

[Singed Eyebrows]

I'm gonna drain the tank, cylinder, and cases to the best I can from what I've read.
Get a new plug and filter and try her again this weekend.
BTW, muffler/screen is clean and clear.

Until next time....HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!.....and thanks to all for the info...

This isn't one of the Stihls that has the choke built into the filter? The saw is acting like it's constantly on choke. As was mentioned, run without filter. Randy

 

[gapman789]

It is the filter with the built in choke. So, after turkey dinner at mom's house, I just now go to the garage. I take the filter apart and clean the inside.
The choke flapper valve is held on by a cotter pin. I take the cotter out and the choke valve and all seems ok.
I put it back in making sure that the cotter catches the spring on the valve. I'm thinking the filter was taken apart at some time and the cotter wasn't going through the little spring that works the choke valve.

Saw has been setting for 24hrs, so hoping that the fuel in the cases and cylinder had evaporated, I give her a quick pull with full choke and crack, we got fire, as in it hit.
I turn choke off, another couple pulls and it's firing and spitting some gas out of the exhaust port, and just a few more pulls and it started idling. Very nice.

Muffler was off, so I didn't want to run it much and the throttle linkage/arm keeps binding up in the new Bing carb I put on it so I'm gonna have to bend it or flex it so it operates freely. A stuck throttle on anything is never good.

Seems to be idling fast so I'll try to turn that down. I did set the H/L according to new carb/new rebuilt carb according to the service manual. 1 turn out on each.

 

[gapman789]

Success! It's starting, running, and idling fine. Oiler seems to be working too.

The chain doesn't want to stay properly adjusted; becomes loose after 30 secs of running. The bar/chain do look to be in bad shape. I'll get new or I'm sure my local Stihl dealer has some good used bar and chains. Though I could just put my good 20" bar/chain from my 036 on the 038?
I'm also going to let them tune it.

I got less than $100 in this 038, 150 psi saw. So far, well worth it.
I guess I'll disregard that set screw that fell out of it.

Thanks again everybody.
I'll cya's at my 036 thread soon.

 

[southbound]

Though I could just put my good 20†bar/chain from my 036 on the 038? Yes if the same pitch chain ie 3/8

good to hear you are happy.. I too will be building a 036as soon as I get done with this 064/066.....