The best way to use Seafoam on a gas powered car/truck is to remove the brake booster line with the engine warm and running(or any vacuum line that evenly distributes to all cylinders). Slowly pour it into the line(the line is vacuum operated so it will suck it out). When engine dies let it sit for 20 min. or so. Restart and A LOT of smoke will come out. Repeat if needed. For diesels fill fuel filter canister and start. Shut it down right away and restart in 5-20 min. For two strokes mix in fuel/oil as directed and run a couple tanks of the mixture through. As another poster said I don't put much faith in snake oils but this stuff really works.JoeyJ said:
Stihl 026 hard to start, bogs down easily
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JRP- starting then dying when revved up could be a vacuum forming in the gas tank. With nice tight sealed tubes etc- make sure that the vent in the fuel tank is not clogged up.
I took the vent off, couldn't see any blockage, took out the screw in the end and the small screw inside it and sprayed carb cleaner into it, and put it back together. However, now the saw won't run at all unless I spray a shot of carb cleaner into the carb and it dies once that's used up. Even if the vent were plugged it should still at least start and idle for a bit, and there is no vacuum in the tank when I open the cap. So I'm actually regressing instead of progressing. It's going into the shop tomorrow. I'm sure I could fix it eventually but I'm too annoyed at this point and don't want to mess with it any longer. Plus the guy I bought it from who said it was a good running saw said he'd pay me back for the repairs.
Thats why they call it a stihl , because it is still hard to start....I got a Home Depot Echo 49CC with a 20" bar and that thing seems indestructible.... My ex wife did throw it into our swimming pool during one of her rants...Luckily she is gone, but the saw lives ....I took it apart after the pool incident and dryed it out and with a little squirt here and there and it started on the first pull. She got the Webber Grill though
Well I removed my muffler and air filter and ran the saw and had the same problem with it bogging down and sometimes dieing on reving it up. I did notice that there was a spit of fuel coming out of the carb. Have rebuilt the carb. with no change.
It seems to idle well but the high speed is where the problem is.
BTW, the cylinder is perfect.
It seems to idle well but the high speed is where the problem is.
BTW, the cylinder is perfect.
Start it and get it warmed up and adjust the H screw while you are at wide open throttle then go back and adjust the L screw to make it idle good. 1 turn out on both is a good starting point but needs adjusting from there.
Rob
Rob
Finally got the saw back from the shop, carb rebuild did the trick, $94 later. Of course they also replaced my brand new spark plug with another new one and put on a brand new $26.00 air cleaner, which it could have used but wasn't the reason it wouldn't run. Wasn't too happy with that but after waiting this long I was happy enough to get the saw back that I didn't bother arguing with them too much. Maybe that's their plan, hang onto the saw for so long you just want it back no matter what :ahhh:
The guy who sold it to me agreed to give me $50 towards the repairs so I didn't come out too badly in the end. Thanks for all the help here.
The guy who sold it to me agreed to give me $50 towards the repairs so I didn't come out too badly in the end. Thanks for all the help here.
Spoke too soon :-S Starts and runs great, until I actually try to cut with it, then it bogs down again. Back to the shop with it. Probably just needs mixture adjustments but they should have done that after the rebuild so I'll let them mess with it.
My 2000 026Pro is at the shop for the exact same thing.
Supposedly there's some plastic tube that dries out - controls something in the carb.
PITA to change. Supposedly common with 026 motor. Inexpensive part, the job ends up all labor for dis-assembly / assembly.
Last Spring I thought I had bad gas - a new mix would run longer. Last weekend we had a wind storm and a huge oak snapped came down taking a pine and a hemlock with it in my driveway.
Darn saw wouldn't cut more than 2 cuts before it just stall and died.
Had to wait to cool off before it would restart, but basicilly won't run more than a minute.
Figures, the one time I need it - right now.
If I cut a lot I'd buy another one.
One to use, one to curse.
Supposedly there's some plastic tube that dries out - controls something in the carb.
PITA to change. Supposedly common with 026 motor. Inexpensive part, the job ends up all labor for dis-assembly / assembly.
Last Spring I thought I had bad gas - a new mix would run longer. Last weekend we had a wind storm and a huge oak snapped came down taking a pine and a hemlock with it in my driveway.
Darn saw wouldn't cut more than 2 cuts before it just stall and died.
Had to wait to cool off before it would restart, but basicilly won't run more than a minute.
Figures, the one time I need it - right now.
If I cut a lot I'd buy another one.
One to use, one to curse.
JRP3 said:
Impulse tube may have been what he was suspicious of.
The carb hadn't been rebuilt. I brought it in because I couldn't get it to stay running. In fact this 026Pro hasn't been touched or back to the shop since new in 2000.
Ended up being a split hose barb (nipple) white plastic. Took the guy a whie to find it, kept failing a pressure test. Rather than replace the carb he reamed out where this 2 part nipple went into the carb body and replaced with an older style from an old carb.
Runs like new.
I hope $63 with a quart of bar oil was a decent deal.
He kept remining me the gallon jugs were "over there". I didn't get the hint until I got this one empty.
Figures my saw would act up when a huge oak falls in the driveway.
If I cut enough wood I'd have a second saw.
I do as much cutting as possible with my Makita UC 4000 electric chainsaw. It's quieter, no cloud of smoke around me, and cuts reasonably fast through most logs. Most of the stuff I deal with is 12 inches or less though I have cut 20 inch red oak with it. If I can get the log within the range of a 100 ft extension cord I usually use the electric.
That screen inside the muffler is the spark arrestor. If it's clogged with carbon it can adversly affect the saws performance. Clean it, even if it looks clean. I had the same problem with my old saw. Cleaned the spark arrestor and it ran like new.
What can it hurt?
What can it hurt?
Got the saw back, runs great! Finally. The guy asked me if I had put gas in it because it smelled stale, I said the only gas in it was what he put in after he rebuilt it a few days ago, then he said the carb was way out of adjustment and he said he was sure he adjusted it after the rebuild. I said maybe the guy who took it in at the shop messed with it trying to fix it. He also put a new plug in it, (the third one since I put one in when I tried to get it running and he put one in when he first rebuilt it). Either way it runs fine now and he didn't charge me any more so I'm reasonably happy. My first real saw :cheese:
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