worth a rebuild but like MM said, don't hone the cylinder unless you REALLY know what you are doing. The chrome plating on the cylinder is very very thin, and it is very easy to burn through it. I would suggest, if needed, some 300 grit wet sand paper and a very VERY light crosshatch sanding done by hand. That's how I do all my re-rings and i have never had a problem. I also saw over on AS where muriatic acid is used to remove aluminum transfer. I wouldn't go that route unless you study it and know what you are doing, that muriatic acid can be some nasty stuff and it puts off some bad sulfur gas when it is eating aluminum.Well... If the cylinder looks good? Then I would spend the $15 (shipping?? Forgot to look at that?) and throw the rings in it. Maybe even Re-Hone the cylinder and out a good cross hatch back on it...
The only 2 gaskets they show won't fitThey can't/won't order one for you?
Goop it if all else fails. Go sparingly, use just enough to get 'er done.
(broken link removed)
Stihl dealer might have some Dirko he'll sell you. Pricey stuff tho.
I have the remenents of the gasket, this weekend I think I'll get some gasket material and give it heck.
OK, I am assuming you rebuilt the carburetor. If so, what did you set the initial carburetor settings at? For primary settings on the carb, you should bottom out both the low mix and high mix screw. Then back off the low mix screw one full turn, back off the high mix screw one and a quarter turns. That should get your primary settings close. You'll have to fine-tune it from there.
GOT IT FINALLY the routing of the wires let the flywheel rub a little on the coil wires , re-route some electrical tape and it runs great Quick carb adjust and good to go
arround 95
Thats a great deal. Have you had it in wood yet?
I love my Husqvarnas. But I really love my Stihls!!.
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