Sean McGillicuddy
Minister of Fire
So if i'm following you on this ... men shouldn't sit with their leg crossed or feet crossed over each other.. 
Starting a chainsaw
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Did you do it like this? (fast forward to position 3:00) The saw doesn't go up and down. That'd hurt. You hold it kinda sideways and always push the compression release.
maple1
Minister of Fire
I don't think anyone cares if you drop start your chainsaw, it's just not the safe way to start one up and certainly not the way to teach newbies.
CincyBurner
Minister of Fire
You shouldn't be getting bruises. Something is wrong.
When starting between legs (best when engine already warm):
* set chain brake
* with your L hand gripping top handle, keep L arm straight (lock-out your L elbow). This will act as brace, so most of reactive force when pulling cord is taken by the locked arm.
* Tuck rear handle between legs. Some folk with good balance cross their R foot over their L foot
* pull starter cord with quick, short pull
Prof
Minister of Fire
I find that with chaps on I don't get bruises or notice anything after using the saw.
it really depends. 99% of the time, it is per the instructions.... choke off, compression button down, prime 3-6 times (until i see gas in the bulb), handle between legs, brake off. Pull 3-5 times. choke on, pull again. start.
Then there are the times when someone wants to borrow it, and it goes like this.... pull pull pull pull pull, tear apart, put back together. pull pull pull pull pull. take apart. clean filter. put back together. pull pull pull. swear swear swear. pull pull start.
Sometimes I have to put it on the ground and give it some gas while pulling the cord. this always scares me, but it seems to get it started.
I don't like to even take a step without the brake on...
Then there are the times when someone wants to borrow it, and it goes like this.... pull pull pull pull pull, tear apart, put back together. pull pull pull pull pull. take apart. clean filter. put back together. pull pull pull. swear swear swear. pull pull start.
Sometimes I have to put it on the ground and give it some gas while pulling the cord. this always scares me, but it seems to get it started.
I don't like to even take a step without the brake on...
Bad LP
Minister of Fire
Cold start on ground, heal on hand guard, no brake and I've never used the compression release on two personal saws. Warm saw always drop started.
Vent saw on the FD. Cold started the same way and warmed up. Handed to man on the ladder with the brake always on.
Never ever ever warm up a saw at high speed
Low to mid range ONLY!
Vent saw on the FD. Cold started the same way and warmed up. Handed to man on the ladder with the brake always on.
Never ever ever warm up a saw at high speed
Low to mid range ONLY!
beatlefan
Feeling the Heat
I like your comment about trying to get your saw to run after someone borrowed it Dobish. I've gone through that myself. Now when someone asks to borrow my saw, they get me with it. Otherwise, I won't lone it out.
It's comforting to know that you're safety minded when handing a chain saw to a man on a ladder!
maple1
Minister of Fire
It's comforting to know that you're safety minded when handing a chain saw to a man on a ladder!
That is a very necessary thing to have to do sometimes when you're a firefighter.
Sadly I've got a life time of bad habits developed from running (and respecting) a chainsaw from an early age (my teen-age years.)
I know the safest way to start a saw is generally on the ground with the foot holding it down . . . but I think 99% of the time I am a "dropper". Finger is never on the throttle though and it's always a gentle swing away from the body with nothing (and nobody) in the immediate area.
I know the safest way to start a saw is generally on the ground with the foot holding it down . . . but I think 99% of the time I am a "dropper". Finger is never on the throttle though and it's always a gentle swing away from the body with nothing (and nobody) in the immediate area.
So if i'm following you on this ... men shouldn't sit with their leg crossed or feet crossed over each other..
I know my father always made that very clear to me. But speaking of family jewels, as in some of the earlier posts, I've never been able to sit that way because I always felt as if they were being crushed. I don't know how some people do it.
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I never thought of that way to keep from lending out your saw.Awsome.
Him "can i borrow your saw"
You " sure let me start it to make sure it's running good" pull pull pull pull tear apart put back together pull pull pull wouldn't start sorry you will have to find another"
Him "Ok last one i borrowed died anyhow"
You after he leaves" Turning on switch starting the saw Vroom Vroom Vroom shut off and return to shelf
Nope. Sean said he had two bruises between his knees. I couldn't picture how you could start a saw with it between your knees so this is the method I sampled. Not recommended.
I've done the approved method under the thigh but it really doesn't feel any safer to me. Chainsaws are dangerous tools and I may be injured while using one someday. So far I have over 40 years of safe use. Yes, always a first time but it won't be from starting it.
I mostly always drop start any saw that I use. That's how I've done it for most of the 20 or so years that I've been running a saw. I rarely use the chain brake for anything. Sometimes when I think about it when I'm walking from one tree to the next one to be cut, that's about all.
When I was rather young (10-11), my grandfather bought a small pruning chainsaw (small McCollough from their Eager Beaver line) and have me assist him in the woods limbing trees and cutting the end cuts into firewood (he had a post-retirement logging business). I recall starting those from the ground. When I was older (12-13) and moved on to real saws, I drop started from then on.
When I was rather young (10-11), my grandfather bought a small pruning chainsaw (small McCollough from their Eager Beaver line) and have me assist him in the woods limbing trees and cutting the end cuts into firewood (he had a post-retirement logging business). I recall starting those from the ground. When I was older (12-13) and moved on to real saws, I drop started from then on.
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Fuut Master
Member
I always drop start with chain brake off. Anything else is just silly. I had never heard of this between the legs nonsense until reading about it on forums and I sort of figured that the step pad on the handle was to hold it while you pulled the cord but who wants to bend over like that?
Starting lawnmowers I think you're supposed to put a foot on the mower deck too.
The only time I use the chain brake (other than kickback safety) is when I want to set the saw on the ground for a moment while I roll a log. I don't want the chain to spin and eat dirt.
Never use the decomp button on my dolmar 64. Maybe because I am drop starting it the compression is no big deal.
Starting lawnmowers I think you're supposed to put a foot on the mower deck too.
The only time I use the chain brake (other than kickback safety) is when I want to set the saw on the ground for a moment while I roll a log. I don't want the chain to spin and eat dirt.
Never use the decomp button on my dolmar 64. Maybe because I am drop starting it the compression is no big deal.
I've never understood compression releases. We all know there are three things required to start a gas engine:
1) Fuel/air mixture
2) Compression
3) Spark
It never made much sense to me to compromise on one of the three essentials unnecessarily when starting an engine.
If the engine would pull easier with a weaker spark, would you want a switch to weaken the spark during cranking to make it easier? On engines that people have trouble manually cranking with full compression, I get it. But most saws simply don't need it. It's like trying to fix something that isn't broken.
I mean, is a chainsaw a manly tool or not!
I've never understood compression releases. We all know there are three things required to start a gas engine:
1) Fuel/air mixture
2) Compression
3) Spark
It never made much sense to me to compromise on one of the three essentials unnecessarily when starting an engine.
If the engine would pull easier with a weaker spark, would you want a switch to weaken the spark during cranking to make it easier? On engines that people have trouble manually cranking with full compression, I get it. But most saws simply don't need it. It's like trying to fix something that isn't broken.
I mean, is a chainsaw a manly tool or not!
They have automatic compression releases on many dirtbike engines (4 stroke) so kicking is easier. I think the theory is that you don't need full compression to start an engine and that speed (RPM) is more important and more easily gained with a controlled compression leak. The saw compression release doesn't release all compression, just a little.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
The decomp valve snaps back shut on the first successful combustion cycle. It's darn near instantaneous.I've never understood compression releases. We all know there are three things required to start a gas engine:
1) Fuel/air mixture
2) Compression
3) Spark
It never made much sense to me to compromise on one of the three essentials unnecessarily when starting an engine.
If the engine would pull easier with a weaker spark, would you want a switch to weaken the spark during cranking to make it easier? On engines that people have trouble manually cranking with full compression, I get it. But most saws simply don't need it. It's like trying to fix something that isn't broken.
I mean, is a chainsaw a manly tool or not!
I have a decomp valve on my 63cc saw, and almost never use it. But I do wish I had one on my 85cc saw, some days. It can be a hard pull, sometimes. It does keep anyone but me from using it, though... none of the folks with which I cut seem to be able to pull it over very well.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Ashful
Minister of Fire
That's 'cause they're not drop starting it.
True, dat. But saws that large are hard for most folks to drop start, esp. when I have the 36" ES bar mounted, which makes it very nose-heavy. On that saw, I always do the first cold start with my foot in the handle, but sometimes drop start it after it's warm.
I always click the chain brake on when drop starting. I still don't understand you folks who have an aversion to spending that half-second it takes to apply and release it. I suspect most making that statement are using smaller saws, or have decomp on their 85cc and larger saws. Large high-comp saws have a habit of sometimes compression-locking, and ripping the cord handle right out of the hands of the unsuspecting. You need to rip that cord like you mean to hurt it.
After starting the saw my gloved hand is on the top handle. If I didn't set the brake my right hand is ready to grab the rear handle and have full control of the saw as soon as I start it. If I did set the brake, I now need to grab the rear handle so I can slide my left hand around to the side of the handle (where it won't prevent the brake from releasing) then I have to let go of the rear handle to release the brake while the saw is only supported by the side handle. The only other way to do this without putting the saw on the ground is to maintain a hold on the rear handle while letting go of the top handle to release the brake. The saw is unbalanced while holding the rear handle and the safety palm lever that prevents the saw from accidental revving is deactivated (depressed) so any accidental gripping of the throttle will cause the saw to rev high while only holding the rear handle.
Ashful
Minister of Fire
You must have freakishly small or large hands, to have that much trouble with your chain brake. I just roll my wrist forward to set it, and reach forward with my middle finger to pull and release it. Takes less time than putting on my sunglasses.
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