St. Croix Auburn Not Getting Hot in Test Burn

[DoosanMan]

I can't get a clear look, but if you have the two wires that go to the vac switch connected together, that's correct. If you are now getting the #2 light, then your connection(s) isn't good (or a wire or connector is defective). Try again. I see a third wire hanging in the breeze - what is that?

The newer combustion blowers have a third wire that isn't used. I seriously doubt that could be your problem.

That wire hanging in the breeze is the third wire coming from the combustion blower. I am not getting a #2 light, and the control will advance heat settings, but the actual stove never speeds up when I have it jumped like shown.. thank you

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Talk to the dealer and see if they will try your controller in one of their stoves.

If you place the jumper between the two wires going to the vacuum switch you have it bypassed.

The wiring to the combustion blower could be a cause of a vacuum issue however jumping the vacuum switch removes the controller's ability to keep looking for vacuum as it is being lied to by the jumper and will see the vacuum switch as closed.

One has to know what the blower motor is expecting where, some have a high and low speed that is selected by which wires are being powered.

 

[heat seeker]

I think that everything but the controller itself has been eliminated. I am, of course, assuming this stove should behave like my Afton Bay.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I think that everything but the controller itself has been eliminated. I am, of course, assuming this stove should behave like my Afton Bay.

I'll go back and read the manual again to see if I missed something but I'm pretty sure the basics are the same, it however won't be right off.

I hate calling the controller mainly because I can't see such a failure mode. None the less that is what we are current left with and hence my recommendation to have it tried elsewhere..

 

[heat seeker]

Agreed, it is a very strange failure mode. I'm coming up empty for other ideas, though. I'm hoping he can get the controller tested before buying another one, for sure! They're not cheap to buy.

 

[DoosanMan]

Ok, I notice this green wire not attached to anything coming out of the room blower fan. That is just a ground isn't it? That wouldn't be causing my problem would it? See attached

 

[heat seeker]

Green is indeed ground.

 

[DoosanMan]

How I can't get it to go past heat setting #2!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Ok, I notice this green wire not attached to anything coming out of the room blower fan. That is just a ground isn't it? That wouldn't be causing my problem would it? See attachedView attachment 147394

What does your electrical diagram say, and yes unattached grounds can cause issues, your issue I'm not so sure it would cause.

 

[DoosanMan]

Didn't get a whole lot of help when I called the dealer this afternoon. He said he would have a tech call me Monday. However I have another thought here and probably a long shot. I am getting my auger on times from page 20 on the following manual link (broken link removed to http://www.eventempinc.com/stcroix/downloads/dig1/Digital_Control_Board_Service_Manual-Pellet.pdf). However my stove is a 2006 model and is a corn stove. It has a sticker on the inside of the hopper door to burn only corn and I know St. Croix suggested buying a pellet pot at that time if one desired to burn pellets. I now have the multifuel pot and their Auburn is sold as a multifuel stove. It wasn't when I bought it. Is it possible that the 3.5 second auger time I am timing when on level #5 is in fact the factory setting for the corn only stoves they were selling then? thank you!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

It could be, the people to ask are at Eventemp. We can only go by published documents, I know that several models can use a different cycle time based upon what is being burned or how many btus the stove has been rated (tested) for.

There are three different firing tables on my buck of parts as the controller is used on different models of the same stove line by the manufacturer, makes only one part being needed in the way of control boards (this does have its downside).

 

[DoosanMan]

I'll try to get a hold of them on Monday

 

[DoosanMan]

Short update and another question. I'm pretty sure now my controller is working right. It is the controller for the corn stove and not for pellets. It runs like this: setting #1=1.5 seconds of auger time, #2=2 seconds of auger time, #3=2.5 seconds of auger time, #4=3 seconds of auger time, and #5=3.5 seconds of auger time. I have sent an email into Eventemp to verify these times and am expecting a call from the dealer tomorrow. I have found out also that the pellets I have right now are despised by most people in this area. They are known to be not worth burning. They also are long pellets. I moved the stove into the house and put corn in it. It is running very well and the stove gets very hot. It is the way we remember it when it was new. The corn packs into the auger so much better and it is augering more fuel into the fire.

Next problem: Friday I decided to try the extra red wire coming out of the combustion fan instead the black wire and see what happens. Mistake! It blew the fuse in the control panel. So replaced that, but now when I shut the stove down the combustion fan keeps running. Any time the stove is plugged in the fan runs. Did I blow something more in the control board or should I check the POF switch or something?

Thank you all for your patience in helping me work through this!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Short update and another question. I'm pretty sure now my controller is working right. It is the controller for the corn stove and not for pellets. It runs like this: setting #1=1.5 seconds of auger time, #2=2 seconds of auger time, #3=2.5 seconds of auger time, #4=3 seconds of auger time, and #5=3.5 seconds of auger time. I have sent an email into Eventemp to verify these times and am expecting a call from the dealer tomorrow. I have found out also that the pellets I have right now are despised by most people in this area. They are known to be not worth burning. They also are long pellets. I moved the stove into the house and put corn in it. It is running very well and the stove gets very hot. It is the way we remember it when it was new. The corn packs into the auger so much better and it is augering more fuel into the fire.

Next problem: Friday I decided to try the extra red wire coming out of the combustion fan instead the black wire and see what happens. Mistake! It blew the fuse in the control panel. So replaced that, but now when I shut the stove down the combustion fan keeps running. Any time the stove is plugged in the fan runs. Did I blow something more in the control board or should I check the POF switch or something?

Thank you all for your patience in helping me work through this!

Now some controllers run the combustion blower upon plug in for a certain amount of time and then shuts it off.

They do that under the assumption that the power failed and there might still be smoldering crud in the burn pot.

The manual should speak about that.

But if the blower runs longer than the manual says it might then likley both the triac and optical isolator for the combustion blower circuit got fried.

For someone with good soldering skills it is an easy repair. There are controller repair folks out there The stove however should not be operate with the controller in that state.

Your call.

 

[DoosanMan]

Now some controllers run the combustion blower upon plug in for a certain amount of time and then shuts it off.

They do that under the assumption that the power failed and there might still be smoldering crud in the burn pot.

The manual should speak about that.

But if the blower runs longer than the manual says it might then likley both the triac and optical isolator for the combustion blower circuit got fried.

For someone with good soldering skills it is an easy repair. There are controller repair folks out there The stove however should not be operate with the controller in that state.

Your call.

Thank you, what do you mean the stove should not operate with the controller in that state? I shouldn't operate it, or it shouldn't actually be functioning if that was the problem? appreciate it.

 

[rona]

They should be covered. Fake fire brick any thing to make sure that the air flow goes through the heat exchangers and not straight out the internal exhaust passage ways.

Speaking of fake bricks there is nothing like that inside this outfit. I guess I can make a piece out tin to cover the clean out holes. This fake brick we are speaking of is it a metal plate on each side of the burn pot?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Thank you, what do you mean the stove should not operate with the controller in that state? I shouldn't operate it, or it shouldn't actually be functioning if that was the problem? appreciate it.

If you fried the exhaust blower circuit you should not attempt running the stove until you:

1. Get the controller repaired.

or

2. Get a new controller.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Speaking of fake bricks there is nothing like that inside this outfit. I guess I can make a piece out tin to cover the clean out holes. This fake brick we are speaking of is it a metal plate on each side of the burn pot?

Yes some stoves use a painted piece of metal as "fake" bricks. Some use a fire proof fiber board. Take your pick it depends upon the fake of the day that was in vogue at the stove makers. On some stoves they are optional on others they are required. I gave up keeping track of what was in what and such some time ago. But those clean outs do need covering with something.

 

[heat seeker]

To test the POF switch, just pull one of the wires off of it. If the combustion blower still runs, ditto what Smokey said. On mine, if the POF switch is closed, both blowers run.

 

[jzm2cc]

To test the POF switch, just pull one of the wires off of it. If the combustion blower still runs, ditto what Smokey said. On mine, if the POF switch is closed, both blowers run.

I'm not sure if you have read about changing the position of the jumper on the circuit board four pins. This changes the total period of the auger motor so the on time duty cycle (overall on time percentage) is increased or decreased. This link discusses procedure. Just be aware that this could lead to firepot over filling and hopper "thermal" issues.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/how-do-i-get-my-st-croix-scf-50-running-optimally.104325/page-2

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I'm not sure if you have read about changing the position of the jumper on the circuit board four pins. This changes the total period of the auger motor so the on time duty cycle (overall on time percentage) is increased or decreased. This link discusses procedure. Just be aware that this could lead to firepot over filling and hopper "thermal" issues.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/how-do-i-get-my-st-croix-scf-50-running-optimally.104325/page-2

I am aware of those possibilities and they are common on many stoves other than just St. Croix ones. The owner should really consult with the dealers tech folk or the makers tech folks before changing them if for no other reason than to understand how the stove will operate with the changed settings.

We see the folks with ESW stoves getting things messed up because of such changes.

I can run my unit in three different modes at the change of a jumper, not exactly great because for starters the jumper was set for a different model and was over firing my stove.

 

[DoosanMan]

Ok, Eventemp got back with me and verified that on my Auburn stove the high setting will turn the auger 3.5 seconds. I apologize for all the confusion with this and thank you all for your help. Does anybody that has an Auburn with the updated control panel know if you can turn the feedrate up when burning wood pellets?

 

[DoosanMan]

Now some controllers run the combustion blower upon plug in for a certain amount of time and then shuts it off.

They do that under the assumption that the power failed and there might still be smoldering crud in the burn pot.

The manual should speak about that.

But if the blower runs longer than the manual says it might then likley both the triac and optical isolator for the combustion blower circuit got fried.

For someone with good soldering skills it is an easy repair. There are controller repair folks out there The stove however should not be operate with the controller in that state.

Your call.

How do I know which triac or optical isolator might have gotten fried?

 

[heat seeker]

The only way I know of is to follow the traces from the connector to the triac. See which pins of the connector go to the motor in question, then follow back to the triac.