Anyone have any good advice on getting a wood handled or fiberglass handled splitting maul? If you have a splitting maul is it really necessary to have a wedge as well?
Splitting maul handle preference
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If you are not a practiced maul user, you'll be breaking wood handles frequently. I've had a fiberglass handle 8lb for years and the handle seems indestructable ( Admittedly, I seldom mis hit anymore).
Even if you're good and consistent splitter, the wood handles weaken where they insert into the maul and have to be replaced at some point anyway. In my opinion, with handles at $6-7 each and a fiber glass handled maul in the $30 range it's a no brainer to go for the fiberglass.
I split 2-3 cords every year, including some pretty ugly pieces and don't own a wedge.
Practice,Practice,practice.
Even if you're good and consistent splitter, the wood handles weaken where they insert into the maul and have to be replaced at some point anyway. In my opinion, with handles at $6-7 each and a fiber glass handled maul in the $30 range it's a no brainer to go for the fiberglass.
I split 2-3 cords every year, including some pretty ugly pieces and don't own a wedge.
Practice,Practice,practice.
I have both and seem to use the fiberglass more also. I have a 10lb sledge and wedges I use for ugly stuff.
Picked up a 6lb fiberglass maul at Tractor supply for $22.00. THought I'd work with the 6lb for a bit then get an 8 lb. later.
The fiberglass handle one does sound better, but I never had a reason to change as I never broke my wooden handle one. I have a rubber handle saver on it. I can't remember what it cost as it was a long time ago, but it sure was well worth buying. (Should be less than $5).
Bill
Bill
I have 2 Hickory mauls and and fiberglass. My older hickory I have never broken, my brother messes up py other one by missing alot so I just replaced the handle on it. I don't use the fiberglass one at all. The shape of the wedge is not that great and all the new mauls are just like it. I like the feel of the wood handles and the shape of the wedge makes it work better. It has a long narrow shape then flares out, while the fiberglass flares out fast. The fiberglass one will bounce on a piece of wood, I can grab the wooden handle and it will split. This of course is not due to the handle. I do prefer the wood and I don't use the maul to drive wedges, I use a sledge for that.
The replacement cost of wooden handles in this area make fiberglass handles my preferred choice. You mentioned in your followup post about going to an 8 lb maul, I have worked with various weights of spike mauls and sledge hammers on my job with the railroad and for my money in this type of tool I prefer the 6 lb. If possible I would suggest you try one before you commit to purchasing one.
I got one of each but with different head weights and have no preferences...even though I've replaced my wooden one many times. I suppose it feels better bare handed...strange that I don't mind replacing handles. Huh?
I switched to a hydraulic splitter a few years ago. Until then I was doing about 6 > 7 cords per year of any hardwood I could scrounge. A wooden handle would last me for years. EVERY fiberglass handled tool (except my 30 year old Stanley hammer) has had the epoxy crack loose from the maul, sledge, hammer or whatever tool. Every single one of them. Some after just a few hours. None has lasted a season.
On a wooden handle, I tape a hardwood split at the base of the maul. Wrap it tight & it takes the abuse if you mis-strike. Works great.
Al
On a wooden handle, I tape a hardwood split at the base of the maul. Wrap it tight & it takes the abuse if you mis-strike. Works great.
Al
I prefer a nice wood handle but i have found that the quality of wood handles at the el home depot are subpar to say the least....get one at a mom+pop style hardware store....I have also found some nice old school style heads in great shape at yardsales 3$
lobsta1 said:
Well I thought I tried everything but that's a new one...I just happen to be in the market for a new wooden handle so I give it a try. I really don't miss hit ...more often the wood just splits funny. thanks for the tip.
Interesting thought on taping the hardwood split to the handle.
I use an 8 lb. maul with a wood handle. My first ever attempt (several years ago), I overstruck the round and cracked the handle. I put some ducktape on it and am still using it today. I "upgraded" to gorilla tape last year. I've split 8-10 cord with it since I put the ducktape on it.
I use an 8 lb. maul with a wood handle. My first ever attempt (several years ago), I overstruck the round and cracked the handle. I put some ducktape on it and am still using it today. I "upgraded" to gorilla tape last year. I've split 8-10 cord with it since I put the ducktape on it.
The last wooden handled sledge or maul I purchsed was 20 or more years ago. Once home, my first action was to very tightly wrap about 3"-4" of the handle where it enters the head. I used nylon line or leather shoe laces for the wrapping and had a way of tucking both ends under the wrap so it would stay tight. Cover this with a few coats of liquid epoxy or exterior polyurethane. Once dry, this strengthening wrap will last for many years of hard use/abuse.
A tool with a wood handle feels softer and more comfortable to me than one with a fiberglass handle. But, the fiberglass does seem almost indestructable.
John_M
A tool with a wood handle feels softer and more comfortable to me than one with a fiberglass handle. But, the fiberglass does seem almost indestructable.
John_M
Steel handled Monster Maul.
If you insist on a wood handled maul, get Hickory NOT Ash!!
Do not waste yer money on a #10 sledge. If you need a wedge, you need the head of the sledge to weigh more than the handle. :bug: Always get the glass handle on a sledge.
If you insist on a wood handled maul, get Hickory NOT Ash!!
Do not waste yer money on a #10 sledge. If you need a wedge, you need the head of the sledge to weigh more than the handle. :bug: Always get the glass handle on a sledge.
The comfort of a good wood handle is nice. But if you do any splitting in the woods, fiberglass is the way to go. Even if you are just busting up some bigger rounds, for ease of handling, the fiberglass takes the abuse (if you run over it with your atv/buggy/whatever). I have a 6# wood, 6# fiberglass (that I recently re-epoxied), an 8# fiberglass, and a 3 1/2 lb fiberglass axe.
I have a wooden handle maul I never use because it upsets me if I miss hit and catch the wood handle. I like some of the ideas to aid in this dilema. However, I really like the metal handle on the Monster Maul. Never have to worry about a miss hit, and with gloves it just slides real nice. It is also orange which makes it easy to see in the woods. I hate to say it, but I ordered a Fiskars because they are pretty cheap on ebay now $30. I have to see about the hype. But to be truthful I don't think it will replace the Monster Maul. I hate worrying about my maul being sharp (no need with the MM) and the short handle does worry me a bit, I am pretty tall at 6'2. Although I must say I have hit my shins atleast twice with the monster maul on a glancing blow, and that was not fun either. Never a direct hit.
I've got three or four old splitting mauls around here. We got a splitter last year so I don't use them anymore at all. I used to have to replace about a handel a year though.
Look, let's be realistic, you're going to use whatever the local hardware store carries. So you wonder up to the rack and see what they've got. My local place carries Hickory handles so that's what I use. Find one with the straightest grain you can find. No knots, no matter where located or how small. Look for consistency of color of wood - if its 2-tone leave it on the rack.
When you get it home use a 36-grit sanding disk in a high speed (10,000 PM) 4.5" grinder. If you don't have one of those grinders you might as well get it now - you'll want to have one the rest of your life; sanding disks, cutting wheels, or diamond blades, you can do wonders with one. Anyway use the grinder and a sanding disk and you will find that you can shape the handel to a perfect fit in about 10 minutes. Just take off a little bit at at a time.
Sand it down until you know you can slam the head down onto the handle by repeatedly slamming the far end into a stump until the inertia of the head seats it completely. Then take a hack saw and cut off the wood that's sticking out the top.
Now you've to a flush top and a little gap all the way around the top - but the head is really locked on the handle. Now find the original split and pound your wedge into it. After its in for all you're worth trim it flush with the grinder. Now pound in your small metal wedge at 90 degrees to the wood one you already put in.
There, that handle will stay put a while. When it finally breaks take the maul head and toss it in your woodburner. After a day fish it out with tongs and toss it out in the yard where the dogs won't step on it until it cools down.
That's how I taught my son to do it. Hope it helps.
Look, let's be realistic, you're going to use whatever the local hardware store carries. So you wonder up to the rack and see what they've got. My local place carries Hickory handles so that's what I use. Find one with the straightest grain you can find. No knots, no matter where located or how small. Look for consistency of color of wood - if its 2-tone leave it on the rack.
When you get it home use a 36-grit sanding disk in a high speed (10,000 PM) 4.5" grinder. If you don't have one of those grinders you might as well get it now - you'll want to have one the rest of your life; sanding disks, cutting wheels, or diamond blades, you can do wonders with one. Anyway use the grinder and a sanding disk and you will find that you can shape the handel to a perfect fit in about 10 minutes. Just take off a little bit at at a time.
Sand it down until you know you can slam the head down onto the handle by repeatedly slamming the far end into a stump until the inertia of the head seats it completely. Then take a hack saw and cut off the wood that's sticking out the top.
Now you've to a flush top and a little gap all the way around the top - but the head is really locked on the handle. Now find the original split and pound your wedge into it. After its in for all you're worth trim it flush with the grinder. Now pound in your small metal wedge at 90 degrees to the wood one you already put in.
There, that handle will stay put a while. When it finally breaks take the maul head and toss it in your woodburner. After a day fish it out with tongs and toss it out in the yard where the dogs won't step on it until it cools down.
That's how I taught my son to do it. Hope it helps.
Kong said:
Ok, that is really BAD advice :shut:
Get a handle designed for a splitting maul and DO NOT SAND/GRIND THE HANDLE. Liberally apply fiberglass epoxy to the handle and insert into the maul head. Before the epoxy sets up it will provide lube to ease the installation. After the handle is all the way in, cut the protrusion off, pound in the wood wedge and then the metyal one at the aforementioned 90* to the wood one. Let the fiberglass set up for a day or so.
Never EVER sand or grind the handle to ease insertion!
I'd like to know where you are finding generic replacement handles that fit right into the holes. Have you ever actually changed a handle? Generic wooden handles, with their ends ground to the approximate shape of the wildly varying size of the holes in the myriad of well and poorly cast splitting heads available from every 3rd world country on earth rarely come within 1/8" or so of being a fit. Of the dozens and dozens I've changed over the years not one of them could possibly have fit in the hole when it came off the rack and if it did slip fit on it wold sure as hell slip-fit right back off. And as far as putting fiberglas resin on the shaft as a - what, lubricant or adhesive? - well, to be charitable I'll just say its a bad idea. Resin shrinks over time, it has absolutely no strength of its own and if you are using the most common type, polyester resin, it will actually is a very poor adhesive - not that one is required or desirable in the place where you suggest people put it.
Lol, Flamer :lol:
I can't speak for the OP's neck of the woods, but here in Upstate NY I have never had trouble with a 'go-devil' handle fitting properly. Not sure how poorly made your 3rd world country maul heads are.
Even if the resin shrinks in time as you claim, tha handle is still bigger than it would be after your sanding routine.
BTW . . . why doesn't the resin shrink when used on a 'glass handle??
I can't speak for the OP's neck of the woods, but here in Upstate NY I have never had trouble with a 'go-devil' handle fitting properly. Not sure how poorly made your 3rd world country maul heads are.
Even if the resin shrinks in time as you claim, tha handle is still bigger than it would be after your sanding routine.
BTW . . . why doesn't the resin shrink when used on a 'glass handle??
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