Maul Handle Replacement

[Raddler]

Sorry about this newb question. I only started splitting by hand a few months ago and lets just say it took a while to perfect my aim. There's a lot of dings and splintering on my maul handle where it meets the head. I guess this is a two part question. How do I know when it's time to stop using this particular maul and where does one get a maul handle replaced? Might just be time for a fiskars upgrade.

 

[Duds13]

Save yourself the time and hassle and just buy the Fiskars

 

[bigealta]

It's not that hard to replace the handle if you like the maul. If it's a heavy straight handle i'd not replace it because i don't like those. But if it's a lighter maul that uses a curved axe style handle i would replace it. I've done it quite a few times over the last 40 years i've had this maul.

 

[stoveliker]

I'd say use it until it falls off - if you make sure there's no one around when you use it...

You can wrap rope around the handle near the head.
Bucking Billy Ray has some YouTube to videos on that.

And when it fails, get a Fiskars x-27.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

Take some time to research grain orientation and how spring/heartwood affect your choice. Don't be afraid to pass on all the handles that a store has. People pick out the good ones and the off ones stick around for a bit. Take your time. Remove small amounts of wood at a time and its hard to screw up!

 

[Ashful]

I've rehandled so many old axes, hatchets, sledges... and I don't even split by hand anymore. It just bugs me having any tool around that's compromised or incomplete, and it brings me satisfaction, doing a good clean job on a handle replacement.

Most good hardware stores still carry an assortment of handles. I've also bought handles from vendors on Amazon, but matching the eye can be a little bit more tricky, there.

Like @bigealta , I don't like the straight sledge-handled mauls, although I still have one nicely-handled 8 lb. example of that in the cupboard. I really like the curved ax-handled mauls, which are usually closer to 6 lb., with a less-blunt taper to the head. The correct handle type is dictated by the eye in the head of the tool.

Plenty of videos on YouTube about how to rehandle an axe or maul, and while probably nearly half of them or wrong or contain bad info, there are many that are actually quite good. Watch several, you'll pick up a method that works for you. Make sure the handle you buy comes with one wood wedge (lengthwise) and preferably two metal wedges (crosswise), or you'll be buying or making those separately.

 

[Raddler]

And when it fails, get a Fiskars x-27.

The Fiskar x-27 is a splitting axe only is that correct? Not a maul. I've got a lot of large oak rounds so I've been using a maul and wedge. Am I doing it wrong?

 

[stoveliker]

I do all my splitting with the x-27, *especially when it's oak*. Only very knotty (3 or more per length to split) pieces may see my (Fiskars) maul with the sledge hammer.

Just last month I split 3+ ft dia oak with the x-27. This was quite straight tho. (Quartered to load in the truck.)

 

[bigealta]

The Fiskar x-27 is a splitting axe only is that correct? Not a maul. I've got a lot of large oak rounds so I've been using a maul and wedge. Am I doing it wrong?

For me if it needs a wedge i don't waste my time. It takes too much time and energy. Go for the straight grain easy splitting oak. Split around the edges first if it's large diameter. Also look for natural cracks and hit them as they are usually weak spots. And you don't need a heavy maul for large pieces. The lighter ones work just fine and for me even better than a heavy maul.

 

[Raddler]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, very helpful. I've been unsure if an axe would suit my needs, I always thought that it would frequently get stuck in whatever I was trying to split but that doesn't seem to be an issue here. I also thought the heavier the maul the better but now I'm thinking a 6 pounder would suit me better. So now I'll just need to decide on the x-27 or the fiskars 6lbs maul. Decisions, decisions...

 

[stoveliker]

I have both (I think the 8 lbs and the x-27), and I use the maul in less.than 5 percent of the whacks I impart in the wood.

If you like tools, just buy an x-27 in addition to what heavier maul you like.

 

[Ashful]

You're not marrying it, and neither costs more than a decent lunch. Buy them both!

Back when I split by hand, I used to carry two mauls, a sledge, and a milk crate of wedges. Most stuff was attacked with my lightest and slimmest maul, but when I encountered something that wasn't splitting well, I'd try the heavy/fat maul, and then eventually sledge and wedge for the real stubborn stuff.

There is no one tool that fits all needs. If you're heating your home with this stuff, you're going to want a few tools in the arsenal.

 

[EbS-P]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions, very helpful. I've been unsure if an axe would suit my needs, I always thought that it would frequently get stuck in whatever I was trying to split but that doesn't seem to be an issue here. I also thought the heavier the maul the better but now I'm thinking a 6 pounder would suit me better. So now I'll just need to decide on the x-27 or the fiskars 6lbs maul. Decisions, decisions...

I have both and use the maul more than 50% of the time. It’s a workout. You can bang wedges with the back. In general if I can’t get it split by working around the edges then 3-4 swings down the middle I just noodle it 1/2 with my saw. I like the maul.

 

[30WCF]

I use plenty of wood handled tools. Straight and axe handled splitters. I also have an all metal Monster Maul.
The main thing is to chip the edges and then work inwards. You are working harder and likely tearing out the grain in the handle near the head if you attack the middle and it doesn’t split perfectly straight. Everything has a technique that needs to be worked out. This is just mine, the way I do it.

Here is some oak the power company took down not far from me. I worked around to get to the middle rather than trying to bust it wide open with all my might. I kept this pace up for hours. I would split one, load it on the trailer, split another, load the pieces. This is at the end of the day and close to the end of the pile. Pretty lazy looking pace, but I never worked hard. This one I used the Monster. For smaller stuff I like my Council Tools with oiled handles.

 

[bigealta]

I use plenty of wood handled tools. Straight and axe handled splitters. I also have an all metal Monster Maul.
The main thing is to chip the edges and then work inwards. You are working harder and likely tearing out the grain in the handle near the head if you attack the middle and it doesn’t split perfectly straight. Everything has a technique that needs to be worked out. This is just mine, the way I do it.

Here is some oak the power company took down not far from me. I worked around to get to the middle rather than trying to bust it wide open with all my might. I kept this pace up for hours. I would split one, load it on the trailer, split another, load the pieces. This is at the end of the day and close to the end of the pile. Pretty lazy looking pace, but I never worked hard. This one I used the Monster. For smaller stuff I like my Council Tools with oiled handles.

Nice, Yup that's how it's done.

Notice with the heavy maul you lift it up High and let the weight do the work. (Slow and heavy swing speed).

I do the same outside in splitting method, but with the light axe handled maul. With the light maul i swing it for a high speed impact. There are many styles of swinging a maul. For me light and fast is easiest for my body and coordination. It's more like swinging a baseball bat for a line drive.

 

[30WCF]

Nice, Yup that's how it's done.

Notice with the heavy maul you lift it up High and let the weight do the work. (Slow and heavy swing speed).

I do the same outside in splitting method, but with the light axe handled maul. With the light maul i swing it for a high speed impact. There are many styles of swinging a maul. For me light and fast is easiest for my body and coordination. It's more like swinging a baseball bat for a line drive.

Everyone’s gonna find their own groove. I prefer my 6lb over my 8lb, and I don’t even know what that monster maul weighs. Maybe 12lbs? But the monster maul makes quick work out of some bigger rounds.

 

[Ashful]

The only Monster Maul I ever used had a 1" pipe welded to the head as a replacement handle. I couldn't get used to the perfectly round profile, versus the usual oval profile, in keeping the head plumb to the round on the downswing.

Do they normally have round or oval handles?

 

[30WCF]

Mine is round pipe. I got it from my dad when he quit doing wood heat. It appears as though he ovalized the lower third of the handle a little. Maybe slowly walking it back and forth through a vise?

 

[Ashful]

Weird design choice. After using one for a solid weekend, which I had borrowed from a friend, my conclusion was it could be a pretty good tool if only it had a typical oval handle profile. With the round handle, way too much energy and accuracy was lost, by my inability to keep the pointy end facing straight down. Too many crooked blows.

Like anything, I guess you could get used to it after awhile. But even so, oval would always be better than round, as your pop seemed to realize.

 

[30WCF]

Weird design choice. After using one for a solid weekend, which I had borrowed from a friend, my conclusion was it could be a pretty good tool if only it had a typical oval handle profile. With the round handle, way too much energy and accuracy was lost, by my inability to keep the pointy end facing straight down. Too many crooked blows.

Like anything, I guess you could get used to it after awhile. But even so, oval would always be better than round, as your pop seemed to realize.