Sooo, how is everyone splitting elm?

[DiscoInferno]

I recently split about a cord of green elm with an 8lb maul. fjord has it right - avoid splitting across the rings as much as possible. My method for the large trunk sections was to noodle into quarters, then split off the point of each triangle (along the rings), then flake along the bark or, if you're feeling lucky, go for the cross-ring split. Crotches I don't even try, I noodle them into largish blocks. One thing I noticed in my elm was that the smaller limb sections split easy; it was the trunk that was the killer.

 

[mrfjsf]

I recently split about a cord of green elm with an 8lb maul. fjord has it right - avoid splitting across the rings as much as possible. My method for the large trunk sections was to noodle into quarters, then split off the point of each triangle (along the rings), then flake along the bark or, if you're feeling lucky, go for the cross-ring split. Crotches I don't even try, I noodle them into largish blocks. One thing I noticed in my elm was that the smaller limb sections split easy; it was the trunk that was the killer.

Im not up to snuff with the term noodling...is noodling done with a saw?

 

[joefrompa]

Hah - I've got all trunk!

I've been splitting ash trunk rounds (36" across) usuing a similar method of cutting WITH the edge rings and "peeling" slabs off all the way around. Works really well for me.

Sounds like I need to try the same thing with the elm. I'll let it sit exposed for about 7-8 months and then go at it with a wedge & sledge, fiskars, and a maul.

 

[fjord]

I recently split about a cord of green elm with an 8lb maul. fjord has it right - avoid splitting across the rings as much as possible. My method for the large trunk sections was to noodle into quarters, then split off the point of each triangle (along the rings), then flake along the bark or, if you're feeling lucky, go for the cross-ring split. Crotches I don't even try, I noodle them into largish blocks. One thing I noticed in my elm was that the smaller limb sections split easy; it was the trunk that was the killer.

Im not up to snuff with the term noodling...is noodling done with a saw?

"NOODLING"

Redneck (us) term for cutting, halving, quartering large bucks or butts of trees. The butt/bick is laid bark down, cut down through the bark.

The "noodling" is the long thin strips of waste that results in this kind of cut. It is not a ripping cut along the grain--more like a quartering cut.

Those noodles can easily clog the saw under the chain guard; be sure to clean out often AFTER engaging the brake please.

Also, you noodle faster with a sharp chain. We noodle when the butts are too large and/or heavy to move or split. KInd of fun actually.

Noodles can be used as fire starters, bedding, trail covers, mulch, packing material. Some thrown noodles have been known to be involved in woods fighting after a few beers.

 

[jashcroft]

I won't even bother with the stuff anymore, not worth the effort imo. If it's still wet it will just shred. It's a little better if it's been dead for awhile and no bark.

I agree 100%. Not worth the effort and aggravation.

 

[fjord]

I won't even bother with the stuff anymore, not worth the effort imo. If it's still wet it will just shred. It's a little better if it's been dead for awhile and no bark.

I agree 100%. Not worth the effort and aggravation.

"Dance with who you brung to the party."

Burn what you got: way up north e.g. Alaska, Labrador, there's not much hardwood. Here in coastal Downeast ("Downeast" !) Maine there's too much fir and spruce mixed with Paper/White Birch and Red (Soft) Maples.
In this woodland I've got O.E. (Oak Envy).
Some in ther midwest have the remnants of Dutch Elm killed trees. Plenty of dead Elm around; burning does prevent the further spread of the beetle.

 

[TreePointer]

Im not up to snuff with the term noodling...is noodling done with a saw?

Lots of noodling going on here:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=106522

 

[joefrompa]

Some people will drive 30 minutes each way to cut up (into workable sizes) an oak tree and load it up. I've got a load of free elm already cut to workable sizes in my driveway.

It's worth the effort to me - assuming I can find a way to even break the surface

Joe

 

[firefighterjake]

Love elm . . . thanks to a whole bunch of standing dead elm I was able to get through my first year of burning with few problems.

That said . . . having a 27-ton splitter really helps matters . . . if I had to split the elm with a maul or ax . . . well I think I would not love elm as much.

It should be noted . . . and has been noted in the past . . . that when elm is standing dead and the bark is falling off from it that it tends to split up much, much better. When I split very dead elm it sometimes pops right off the splitter vs. splitting elm that is not quite so dead and then it sometimes looks like some demented splitter attacked that piece of wood with nothing more than a small hatchet as it can be quite mangled looking.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I plan on cutting several elm this coming winter. If I remember, I'll take some pictures.

All of the elm that I will be cutting is standing dead with all or most of all the bark fallen off already. It will split good and burn nicely. As for the rounds, I'll keep some up to maybe 6" for overnight burning.

 

[wendell]

fjord has made some really good points and i agree with Dennis that if you've got standing dead, barkless elm, I wouldn't split anything under 6". Those rounds make fantastic overnight logs and if you did split them, you will find them already in the 17-19% range.

I have split over 12 cords of elm over the last few years with my 22 ton splitter and although it does groan on a few trunk pieces, it has always got the job done. What you will learn is to become an "elm whisperer" and learn how the round wants to be split. What I try to do is take 3-4" slabs off the round and then split them so they make a square. Doesn't always work but the sooner you can get the piece small, the easier it is going to be.