Something is just not right. Stove glass is not clearing.

[fishingpol]

So I have been running my new to me F3 for the past few weeks with nice seasoned wood and great temps. The problem is that even at 500*-550* burns, the window glass collects ash and turns a light gray. It cleans easily off when cool. The second issue is that with 2 splits and a nice coal bed, I can close the damper down completely and maintain 500*+ burns. I have a key damper closed just a little since I have a 25' flex liner interior chimney and it drafts almost too good.

I noticed a dark spot on the glass near the latch side during the past few burns and figured air leak. Last night I looked from the side of the stove and could see a sliver of orange on the latch side at the door where it closes. Ok, so air leak. I did the dollar bill test this evening and it failed on that side, even with a firm latch down. When I was cleaning the glass this morning, I noticed that the glass moved a little between the clips. The screw on each side of the glass clips are snug. I'm figuring that window glass gasket may be needed also. I don't know the age of the gaskets, but I believe they are original to the stove.(10 years).

Does it make sense that the glass gasket may be leaking just enough preventing airwash down the front? When I ran the F-100 last year a nice 500* fire cleared the glass almost crystal clear.

Question 2 is do you think that the little door air leak will make that much of a difference on controlling the burn? I still am on the learning curve and am looking for others experience on the primary air control for this stove. Other than that I love the way it runs and holds coals until the morning. I have been leery of putting 3 splits in the stove for concern of overfire. I mean on a closed primary 500* burn is no problem, does that sound right? I can't run primary half open when cruising, as it will definitely get away from me.

 

[begreen]

From the description it sounds like there is some minor air leakage, but not huge. At 500F you are a long way from overfire. We ran ours at 600F usually and sometimes hotter if I had some hardwood to burn. A little haze on the glass was not uncommon.

Tip: Make sure that little start up air control on the door is closed. We always left it fully closed and just cracked the door open a little for starting fires.

 

[fishingpol]

Ok, 600, wow. Looks like I'll stretch its' legs the next cool day. I think a trip to the Jotul dealer may be in order. I do miss having clear glass.

Yes, the start-up lever gets closed after a few minutes. That little lever is great for re-starts to freshen up the raked forward coals from the night before.

 

[jatoxico]

So I have been running my new to me F3 for the past few weeks with nice seasoned wood and great temps. The problem is that even at 500*-550* burns, the window glass collects ash and turns a light gray. It cleans easily off when cool. The second issue is that with 2 splits and a nice coal bed, I can close the damper down completely and maintain 500*+ burns. I have a key damper closed just a little since I have a 25' flex liner interior chimney and it drafts almost too good.

I noticed a dark spot on the glass near the latch side during the past few burns and figured air leak. Last night I looked from the side of the stove and could see a sliver of orange on the latch side at the door where it closes. Ok, so air leak. I did the dollar bill test this evening and it failed on that side, even with a firm latch down. When I was cleaning the glass this morning, I noticed that the glass moved a little between the clips. The screw on each side of the glass clips are snug. I'm figuring that window glass gasket may be needed also. I don't know the age of the gaskets, but I believe they are original to the stove.(10 years).

Does it make sense that the glass gasket may be leaking just enough preventing airwash down the front? When I ran the F-100 last year a nice 500* fire cleared the glass almost crystal clear.

Question 2 is do you think that the little door air leak will make that much of a difference on controlling the burn? I still am on the learning curve and am looking for others experience on the primary air control for this stove. Other than that I love the way it runs and holds coals until the morning. I have been leery of putting 3 splits in the stove for concern of overfire. I mean on a closed primary 500* burn is no problem, does that sound right? I can't run primary half open when cruising, as it will definitely get away from me.

My guess, and it is a guess is that it's not a prob with the air wash but that the leaking air cools the glass slightly and gases condense in that spot.

 

[fishingpol]

Either that or the leak creates some turbulance that interrupts the airwash.

 

[begreen]

Ok, 600, wow. Looks like I'll stretch its' legs the next cool day. I think a trip to the Jotul dealer may be in order. I do miss having clear glass.

Yes, the start-up lever gets closed after a few minutes. That little lever is great for re-starts to freshen up the raked forward coals from the night before.

650F when burning madrona. The stove is a good little heater.

 

[fishingpol]

It's in our living room and we sit within 10 feet of it, so it will cook us out, maybe 600* for the cold months. :bug: BG, do you remember if 600*- 650* was with a closed primary? 550* for me just seems high with a closed primary. Partially opened could realize 600*-650* without a hitch. It seems like I should be able to run closer to 450*-500* with it closed all the way. Still learning the curve on this one.

 

[jatoxico]

Either that or the leak creates some turbulance that interrupts the airwash.

Looking at the wash on my Jotul insert it's pretty strong. I just thought it would have to be a good sized leak to disrupt that significantly.

 

[begreen]

Yes, with closed primary in cold weather. The stove will still be getting some air for the air wash and secondaries. You may have stronger draft, our chimney was shorter. If so, for sure with closed primary.

 

[fishingpol]

Well, I went to the local stove guy last Wed afternoon and picked up some new gaskets. The door glass has a self-stick gasket, and the glass was nice and snug when I put the two clips on. Every channel was brass-wired brushed and wiped out before gasketing. The door gasket went in fine and the dollar bill test passed after letting the adhesive set for a few hours.

You can see the picture shows different points where I believe air was leaking in around the glass. I fired it back up Wed night and it definitely runs better. The glass stays clear now and the damper, when fully closed responds better. I do believe without a doubt this made a difference and the leaks caused the airwash to disrupt.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the update Jon. I'm happy to hear that it's working a lot better now.

 

[LLigetfa]

Ja, the picture is worth a thousand words. Definate air leaks.