Some guidance on replacing a wood stove hearth

[CeeDee]

You could put a sheet of plywood behind the cement board to build it out. Don't worry about the weight. It is supported by the floor and sheer strength of screws is high. The plywood spanning the studs will strengthen the wall a bit.

Right, I hadn't considered that the back wall would actually be resting on top of the hearth pad on the floor. So, much of the weight would be addressed by gravity and the floor, with very little being supported by the wall. Thank you!

I'd need two layers of plywood, though, especially if the back piece is secured directly on top of the old paneling, versus on top of the tongue and groove pine we haven't installed yet.

Would it be best to put this piece on the thinner paneling, or would you put the tongue and groove boards on the entire wall first and then attach the hearth wall?

 

[jetsam]

You're covering the area anyway. Rip the paneling out and do some framing to give yourself good points of attachment for the cement board. You can put the ripped out paneling back on if you need the extra 1/8" to hit your target depth. That'll only cost you a couple 2x4s and not much time.

Get a piece of the actual pine you will be using so the difference between nominal and actual thicknesses doesn't surprise you after you get the tile installed at the wrong depth.

As for putting the T&G behind the cement board, that's your call depending how different you want the depths to be. If you do so, you'll need to trim out the sides to hide the edges of the cement board.

 

[begreen]

I would trim the sides regardless of how it's put together. That will picture frame the hearth wall and provide a visual break making the surface depth less of an issue.

 

[CeeDee]

Thanks so much for the suggestions. I'm definitely framing out the hearth pad and back wall. I'm probably going to use oak, although maybe the same kind of pine as the tongue and groove would make more sense (and be more affordable)? Oak floors throughout the house, pine tongue and groove on the sunroom vaulted ceiling and now on the entire wall behind the hearth, and the hearth trimmed in pine?

I think tearing out the paneling isn't a bad idea. To create the framing, should I use nails or screws? I think framing is always done with nails, but I'm not sure.

 

[jetsam]

Thanks so much for the suggestions. I'm definitely framing out the hearth pad and back wall. I'm probably going to use oak, although maybe the same kind of pine as the tongue and groove would make more sense (and be more affordable)? Oak floors throughout the house, pine tongue and groove on the sunroom vaulted ceiling and now on the entire wall behind the hearth, and the hearth trimmed in pine?

I think tearing out the paneling isn't a bad idea. To create the framing, should I use nails or screws? I think framing is always done with nails, but I'm not sure.

Either one. Nails are good enough as there's little to no chance they'll work loose in that setting.

I think part of the reason that I use nails for framing is that it's just intrinsically satisfying to beat things into existence with a hammer.

When preparing to hang heavy stuff, remember that if you add a horizontal cross-member to take screws, it will only be as strong as the nails on either side. If you add a new stud that is sitting on the bottom plate, it will be very strong. You can use hangers if you need a stronger horizontal member between existing studs.

 

[CeeDee]

Either one. Nails are good enough as there's little to no chance they'll work loose in that setting.

I think part of the reason that I use nails for framing is that it's just intrinsically satisfying to beat things into existence with a hammer.

When preparing to hang heavy stuff, remember that if you add a horizontal cross-member to take screws, it will only be as strong as the nails on either side. If you add a new stud that is sitting on the bottom plate, it will be very strong. You can use hangers if you need a stronger horizontal member between existing studs.

Is two studs enough for mounting the tiled wall? I guess it's best to tear open the paneling and add more supports. I'm not sure how to do the framing and am wondering what size nails I should use.

You mention using hangers for strong horizontal support. Do you mean metal brackets that get nailed into the studs to support a cross beam? Maybe I should use those anyway since they kind of tell me where to place nails and have guides for the angles.

 

[jetsam]

You're probably only hanging a couple hundred pounds on it (cement board, tile, mortar, and grout). Every 16" should be fine, though I might add one or two depending how the cement board lines up with the existing studs (cement board most commonly comes in 3x5s, but you can get 4x8s if you look. 3x5s are a lot easier to work with though. 32" x 60" is also common, used for bigger stuff like showers so you don't creep 4" across the studs every time you hang a board.)

Hangers are an option if you really need a horizontal beam to put screws into, but new verticals will be stronger and cheaper. A concealed flange hanger lets you mount it flush with the face of the stud.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I didnt see a stove mentioned. How do you know you are building the hearth to the right specification? I'd hate to see you build out something nice only to find out it doesn't have the right R value or isn't large enough, etc.

 

[begreen]

PE Super 27