Soft wood not burning

[Yavne]

The black ends tell me your drying spot wasn't ideal. It looks like mold to me. I have an area, on the east side of my house, the east yard, that the wife and I hardly use. I stuck a cord out there one summer to see if I could get some cord wood off the south lawn, but it was no go, too much shade, not enough airflow, I had splits with black ends like that and mold spots on the faces. And you are at 22%.

If that was your sunniest spot with the best airflow, you will need a more sophisticated drying shed. If that was the sunniest spot your wife will let you use to dry cord wood, you will need a more sophisticated drying shed.

I think an important question at this point is how much gunk is at the top of your chimney pipe now with the season drawing to a close? 22% MC isn't awful, but I don't know how dry your hardwood was, and you might, no offense, have enough gunk up there now to affect your draft.

As above, @brenndatomu has correctly pointed out your biggest accumulation of crud is going to be in the top 2-3 feet of pipe. Can you get up there safely and just brush out the top two or three feet top down? I can't do that at my house yet this spring.

Don't give up, you have come to the right place.

Thank you Poindexter!

Yeah, I think that's part of my problem... We have lots of high trees on our lot, barely have any sunny spots. Besides this spot (that is next to the house), there is another spot, but it is about 150 feet away from the house, which will add much more work for me.

Maybe I'm not using the right kind of soft wood, I haven't had any issues with hard wood.

I have a bit of problem claiming to the roof (weird, I know), I can take a look from the bottom. Probably I won't be able to see the top 2-3 feet thought.

BTW, when I use the brush (down-up), is there a chance I can remove the cover accidently? Or it should be screwed?

Thanks again!

 

[begreen]

Thanks Begreen! Drolet escape 1800 wood stove, double wall chimney pipe, was installed 2 years ago (so I am kinda new to this). The chimney pipe was cleaned on last November (see picture below). The wood stove installed in the basement, 90° from basement outside, two stories above basement (I guess about 25 feet length of the chimney pipe). I burned about 1 cord of hard wood this season. A few pictures of softwood below. Did I miss anything?

OK, the draft may be ok, though it will weaken with warmer weather. The wood is the prime suspect. If you can get some dry, 2x4, construction cutoffs to mix in with the softwood, that should help them burn better. Or if you can bring in some of the wood into the heated house for a week or so in totes or crates, that will help too. Also, check that the tee cap on the bottom of the tee is secured and not leaking.

 

[Poindexter]

I haven't broken my cap off yet. What I find with mine is I hit some crud in the last couple feet from the top, when brushing from below. That lets me know to slow down. Then when the brush breaks through the crud and starts going up easy again I am in the outlet area at the top and want to not slam into the cap, more coast into it with a gentle bump.

 

[Yavne]

OK, the draft may be ok, though it will weaken with warmer weather. The wood is the prime suspect. If you can get some dry, 2x4, construction cutoffs to mix in with the softwood, that should help them burn better. Or if you can bring in some of the wood into the heated house for a week or so in totes or crates, that will help too. Also, check that the tee cap on the bottom of the tee is secured and not leaking.

Yeah, it's secured and not leaking. I have a place to store about 40-50 pieces of wood in heated garage, in most cases it's sitting there for at least a few days.

 

[Yavne]

I haven't broken my cap off yet. What I find with mine is I hit some crud in the last couple feet from the top, when brushing from below. That lets me know to slow down. Then when the brush breaks through the crud and starts going up easy again I am in the outlet area at the top and want to not slam into the cap, more coast into it with a gentle bump.

Good info! Thanks

 

[Yavne]

BTW, related question. So every year we should clean the chimney... Is there any other maintenance?
Cleaning the wood stove (except the ashes)?

 

[stoveliker]

If it turns out that your chimney is clogged (partially), I'd clean more times, just to be sure. Not only for burning performance but also safety. Stuff in there is the fuel for chimney fires.

Until you are burning in a way that does not deposit such crud, I'd better be safe than sorry..(you can do this yourself with a sooteater).

Do the dollar bill test before you start burning to see that after the summer all gaskets are still good.

 

[Yavne]

If it turns out that your chimney is clogged (partially), I'd clean more times, just to be sure. Not only for burning performance but also safety. Stuff in there is the fuel for chimney fires.

Until you are burning in a way that does not deposit such crud, I'd better be safe than sorry..(you can do this yourself with a sooteater).

Do the dollar bill test before you start burning to see that after the summer all gaskets are still good.

I have heard the scary stories... It reminds me I need to buy a new one (got one last year, it was rare garbage, was disconnecting all the time).

 

[stoveliker]

I have heard the scary stories... It reminds me I need to buy a new one (got one last year, it was rare garbage, was disconnecting all the time).

I bought mine from Rockford Chimney Supply.

 

[begreen]

When the wood is coming from a seller, always check for moisture content. Unless one is sure that the wood is dry in the core, it's a good idea to clean once per cord.

FWIW, I got our Sooteater and extra rods from Amazon. So far it is holding up well. I haven't had an issue with rods disconnecting. That would be a real PITA.

 

[Yavne]

When the wood is coming from a seller, always check for moisture content. Unless one is sure that the wood is dry in the core, it's a good idea to clean once per cord.

FWIW, I got our Sooteater and extra rods from Amazon. So far it is holding up well. I haven't had an issue with rods disconnecting. That would be a real PITA.

Sorry, I'm not sure what do you mean? - "When the wood is coming from a seller, always check for moisture content. Unless one is sure that the wood is dry in the core, it's a good idea to clean once per cord."

Why to check moisture if I know the wood is wet?
What do you mean "to clean"?

 

[weatherguy]

Sorry, I'm not sure what do you mean? - "When the wood is coming from a seller, always check for moisture content. Unless one is sure that the wood is dry in the core, it's a good idea to clean once per cord."

Why to check moisture if I know the wood is wet?
What do you mean "to clean"?

He means if the seller is selling dry wood, I usually buy my wood freshly cut and season it myself, cheaper and easier than trying to find someone who sells dry wood.

 

[stoveliker]

The "to clean" means to clean the flue once per cord burned- unless you are sure the wood is dry (not on the outside but in the core - i.e. measured after letting a split get up to room temp for 24 hrs, resplitting it and measuring in the middle along the grain).

 

[Hoytman]

I have never been to Nova Scotia, it looks chilly, damp and cloudy on TV.

I do agree the softwood is probably wetter than 20%MC. Typically with softwoods north of the US/Canada border they will foam or drip out the ends while on fire when the MC is 30% or greater. No foam or dripping, but still disappointing, likely in the 20-30% MC range, not down to 20% yet.

I’ve seen people burn wood acting like there here in Ohio. Too wet still.

 

[begreen]

Sorry, I'm not sure what do you mean? - "When the wood is coming from a seller, always check for moisture content. Unless one is sure that the wood is dry in the core, it's a good idea to clean once per cord."

Why to check moisture if I know the wood is wet?
What do you mean "to clean"?

Sorry, I should have qualified that, when one is buying "seasoned wood" always check the moisture content before accepting the load. If it's being sold as green wood, testing is up to you. I test it anyway so that I know what it is starting out at and I can keep track of drying progress.

 

[Yavne]

Thanks for all tips guys! I buy it freshly cut. I buy it from some local one-man company (and he doesn't charge delivery because he is just a few minutes away). Another option here is to buy from a bigger place, they sell it dry, but I think it's about 30% more money.

Last time (2 years ago) I bought 2 cord from him. It took me some time to stack it, based on internet calculation he delivered about 1.5 cords.
Are there different methods to measure it?? Any tips?

 

[stoveliker]

Buy a moisture meter. I have a general tools mmd4e.
Warm up a split to room temperature (24 hrs or so), resplit and measure on the freshly exposed surface in the middle and along the grain.

 

[kborndale]

Thanks for all tips guys! I buy it freshly cut. I buy it from some local one-man company (and he doesn't charge delivery because he is just a few minutes away). Another option here is to buy from a bigger place, they sell it dry, but I think it's about 30% more money.

Last time (2 years ago) I bought 2 cord from him. It took me some time to stack it, based on internet calculation he delivered about 1.5 cords.
Are there different methods to measure it?? Any tips?

I wouldn't waste the 30% more money because chances are even though the bigger place say that there wood is dry, its not. Buy the green wood and dry it yourself and there will be no surprises.