So close ...(no punn intended)

[webby3650]

You got that right Ludlow LOL
Thanks to everyone for their advice and input.

What I think I’m going to focus on is a pair of 45s to get me out of the house. Hopefully that works.
As for the roof...I didn’t consider hitting a truss. Hmmm. Fingers crossed at this point.

Better verify that truss isn’t in the way before you cut the hole. They typically are dead centered. Lol

 

[Ludlow]

Better verify that truss isn’t in the way before you cut the hole. They typically are dead centered. Lol

Every other truss is between studs usually. Truss on end sits on end wall, then the next is centered, then the next bears on a stud. Not looking good but who knows. If its rafters he is in business. How old is the house? Might get lucky and have rafters. Place your bets!

 

[TheIndian]

Wouldn’t I be able to tell by looking in attic if it’s truss or rafters? I almost positive the house built with rafters (built in mid ‘60s).

I can walk (or crawl) from one side of house to the other in attic. Would I be able to do that with trusses?

 

[Ludlow]

YES! Go up and see what type of roof framing. Then measure from the end to the first rafter or truss. Mid 60's its a tossup. Now looking at it I think its a hip roof. Most likely rafters!

 

[TheIndian]

YES! Go up and see what type of roof framing. Then measure from the end to the first rafter or truss. Mid 60's its a tossup. Now looking at it I think its a hip roof. Most likely rafters!

Yes, it is as hip roof and I almost positive too that its rafters. I'll get up there to confirm but I almost positive. Too lazy haha

I would like to present a fully detailed case to my wife about the straight-up interior chimney. Like you guys mention, there are so many advantages to it. The big thing here is as part of this reno, my wife would like to put in sliding glass doors several feet away from the right side of the hearth going into the yard. There is a lack of funds for that right now though. But!...with the money we save on the interior chimney, the sliders might be possible and I would do it for her right away. Nice guy, right?

Anyway...how do I figure out the clearances on a pipe that might pass through the corner of a room? By looking at pipe manufactures recommendations? I would like to give her dimensions on how big (or small) this box-out will need to be. It could all turn out to be a pipe dream ha-ha but its worth a try.

 

[begreen]

The stove pipe will transition to chimney pipe at the ceiling. Chimney pipe needs to have at least 2" clearance to combustibles.

 

[TheIndian]

The stove pipe will transition to chimney pipe at the ceiling. Chimney pipe needs to have at least 2" clearance to combustibles.

That's it? 2"? Hmmm...so if it's 6" pipe, that makes it 10" diameter for clearances all around? When you say chimney pipe, you're not talking about the Class A stainless steel obviously, otherwise there would be very little savings in money, right? But still double-walled?

 

[Ludlow]

No. You need at least 12".

 

[begreen]

That's it? 2"? Hmmm...so if it's 6" pipe, that makes it 10" diameter for clearances all around? When you say chimney pipe, you're not talking about the Class A stainless steel obviously, otherwise there would be very little savings in money, right? But still double-walled?

Yes, stainless steel class A chimney pipe. It has a clearance of 2". The savings will be in the fittings. A decent ss class A tee and cap is pricey (~$180) plus the wall brackets.